Cinque Terre

Our greatest delight on this trip so far has been the opportunity to be immaginative regarding our trip itinarary and work together to figure out how to get to the next destination. Only in the last few days in Menton had we even broached the topic of where to go next, the only decision made was that it was time for Italy.

At 5.30am we awoke to an alarm clock drowned out by the pitter pattering of rain on the embassy roof. If you have ever seen those tricks where the magician is in the box full of water and has to get untangled from the chains, it must look similar to a bystander to see us in wet weather mode ejecting ourselves from the tent.

In a ploom of feathers we managed to pack and make our way down the slippery 317 steps to the station in time. On our arrival to the platform we were greeted by our good friend sunshine. If nothing else, at least our morning wet weather preparation was good practice should it have been pouring.

Our train trip was a mixed bag of decisions, advice and some reluctance to fully commit to any real destination. At our time of departure we had on our person a total of one train ticket valid for the grand journey of 10 minutes across the Italian border. We were advised that purchasing tickets for regional trains on the other side is significantly more economical and thankfully that was the case.

10 minutes later, a few select words in English, French and the only Italian we know (Bounjourno) it was decided that we would go to Monterosso. On further examination of the train time table, a big smile at the surly ticket agent and we were to be seated for almost 5 hours without any food. Our train was boarding in 5 minutes so we took the risk and got on without adequate supplies. At least we had a destination.

Monterosso - 6 May

If we thought we liked pizza before we left for Italy, it was now a matter of life or death. You know you are in Italy when you can walk straight off the train into a pizzaria on the platform. Seated on the corner of the balcony overlooking a glorious sunny day on the Mediterranean we devoured two whole, thick based pizza with gusto. Camilla exclaimed in no uncertain terms that she will 'Take Italy one Margherita at a time'.

The first rude shock came from the expressionless hotelier at Monterosso (fancy pants hotel something-or-other) that the only camping to be found was at the previous station. Out came the big smiles and we asked for the best price possible on their smallest room. Realising that our entire daily budget would not come close we strode off galantly in search of Levanto leaving behind the mid afternoon sun and Monterosso for exploration the next day.

Levanto - Same day but full of Pizza

Outside of the train station was an easy to understand map that indicated Levanto was blessed with 5 campsites within walking distance. Only trouble was we could not figure out which way was up (truthfully it was time for a siesta after 5 hours on the train) so we remained staring at the map until help arrived.

Help was in the form of 4 decisive and well organised fellow backpackers in search of camping also. The conversation was struck between Camilla, Steve and Rob (NZ) travelling with Sarah (NZ), Kelly (NZ) and Gaelle (Fr) who work in the UK and enjoy short stints to exotic locations in continental Europe.

Before setting up the embassies we enjoyed our first (strong) Italien espresso then floated up to a well selected shared site.

Our new found companions headed off for the evening to walk between Levanto and Monterosso while we got lost for a while in the cheese and pasta section of the supermarket. After dinner we also went for a short hike (5 minutes) to watch the sun set behind a curtain of cloud. What more do you need to get excited about walking this famous coastline.

THE HIKE - Monterosso to Riomaggiore (The Cinque Terre) - 7 May

To commence the famous 12 km hike along the Cinque Terre coast through UNESCO heritage park we caught a train back to Monterosso. A quick loving glance at our first Italian pizzaria as we walked down to the beach to skim a few stones. While Rob, Sarah, Kelly and Gaelle went off to find some breakfast we warmed ourselves on the beach.

Rounding the first cape we could see south along the jutting penisulars where three of the five villages were visible. In a straight line to Riomaggiore it didn't look like much of a hike, together with the change in altitude from Monterosso (6m above sea level) to Lanvazza (4m above sea level) it should be a piece of cake. As we started setting the pace through lemon groves and around valleys Camilla read out the change in altitude for the first leg (6m to 140m+). Unfortunately the fresh ripe lemons were just out of reach as we struggled up the slippery path, thankfully a local farmer was selling Lemoncello which Rob gratefully paid top dollar for.

Puffing, the six of us came to Lanvanzza followed shortly by Rob and Sarah plunging into the ocean. By the looks on their faces it seemed a little fresh.

We ate up the kilometres and arrived hungry at Corniglia, set back high up from the sea overlooking the coast. Only moments earlier Steve exclaimed that it would be funny if they didn't sell any pizza. To our surprise it was infact difficult to find a cheap good feed of the national dish so we landed ourselves in a small cafe / bar for panini. A frozen chocolate yoghurt chaser was the order of the day for us, covered in fresh mint.

The path opened out a little as we passed alongside the railway overlooking a long pebble beach. Again we could hear the sound of pebbles and air popping below. At the end of the bay our feet were hurting and it seemed Rob and Sarah were due for another cool off. Perched high on the cliff the remaining four put our feet up and downed a few cookies while they swam below in the crystal clear water.

Thankfully the final stretch was a short 20 minutes along a well worn path. Signs informed us that it was possible to wear stilletos on this section, however they are forbidden on the rest of the track. Via Amore is the infamous stretch of path covered in graffiti declaring undying love between two romantics. The tradition started around 50 years ago and has since encouraged various fresco modern art.

Riomaggiore, like all of the towns along the Cinque Terre is postcard picture perfect with all the traditional cliches. Little fishing boats lined up neatly, trattoria diners run by local families, cats perched on flower pot lined window cills and cool narrow alleyways sheltered from the sun.

In the late afternoon sun we seperated from the group who opted for the lavish (slightly above a 70 euro a day budget) boatride back to Levanto). The train ride gave teasing glimpses of the boat and bays as we ducked in and out of more than 20 tunnels along the coast.

Pre-dinner drinks was a great opportunity to chat to the guys without puffing and panting between sentences. A few bottles of wine, cheese and crispbread later and it was time to find our friendly local trattoria. Well fed by the end our rest that evening was well deserved.

The Cinque Terre is a fabulous introduction to Italian coastal living, enhanced exponentially by sharing the experience with 4 like minded and friendly travellers. We look forward to catching up with them in the UK if possible and will trade a few hundred photos then.