Parisian Life

Day 0 - Thursday 22 March

The flight to Paris was our longest ever (13 hours) but it did give us time to savour French food so we think we could have stayed on for longer. We were greeted at the airport by our good friend Philippe and driven (on the wrong side of the road) to his home in Perreux sur Marne. After 30+ hours awake, an hour long stroll along the bank of the river, welcome drinks and introductions, and a DELICIOUS Roquefort Risotto prepared by Emilie (Philippe's girlfriend) we were beat.

Day 1 - Friday 23 March

Looking out of the window through the blossum trees and across the river early in the morning was a vision. A very French breakfast (coffee) and it was off to the Neuilly Plaisance train station to catch an RER into the centre of Paris. Our first view of Paris was from under the hoods of our rain jackets. After finding the banks of the Seine we strolled from Gare de Lyon past Notre Dame, a painter under the Petit Pont, Musée D'Orsay, numerous tents supplied for the homeless alongside beutifully preserved river barges before making our way into the back streets to find;

[*]1. Une Toillette Gratuit (Public Dunny - A.S.A.P. - not as easy as it sounds)

[*]2. Hot Tea - it was 6 °C, raining and windy so this item was essential rather than desired

[*]3. Lunch?

In a small lane behind the Hotel Invalides we found a tiny Café Bar where we joined the locals as they dove in for a three course lunch during their break. The Thé helped warm us through however it was more the energy of the owners serving people coffee and wine, and the fact that there were 40 people or more fogging up the windows.

Lunch came in the form of une baguette et une baguette au chocolat (no surprise there), which we munched on our way to view a big tower everyone talks about. It was lucky we had swallowed the last piece before gasping at the majestic Tour Eiffel. Although completely symetrical, photos from only one side was insufficient so we covered every angle and distance (still raining remeber) before taking a moment to realise the extent of our satisfaction at living in the present.

Still content in our rain jackets, thermals and relative lack of tourists (whimps) we crossed the Seine at Pont Bir-Hakeim looking at the mini Statue Liberté to Rive Droite (right bank) and sought refuge under the stairs of Palais de Chaillot. Looking back across the river to Tour Eiffel we agreed that this city has a timeless beauty.

Satisfied with our navel gazing it was time for un café crème in a funky little bar before meeting Emilie and Philippe in front of the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). From the town hall we traced the steps of their first date, walking through the Marais area to a French (who would have thought)the restaurant Crêpe Suzette to enjoy the Brittany regions traditional recipe (Emilie's home town) with apple cider.

Absolutely exhausted we returned to the apartment and took one quick glance at the lights over Perreux before bed.

Day 2 - Saturday 24 March

Fortunately, Emilie had today off while Philippe was working so it was to our delight that we had a Parisian led tour of this great city. It was an early start (almost midday) when we caught the train to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. On the final escalator leaving the Metro Emilie said with a smile 'Voila', and there at the top in the freezing wind stood the Arc de Triomphe. In text books it looks big, on post cards it looks big, on the map it looks big and then you see it...

Despite the number of crazy tourists out in the cold and rain (they finally joined us) we felt alone in our thoughts about how humble this great structure honouring fallen soldiers made us feel. A few hundred photos later and the decision to fill our slack jaws with lunch was agreed.

Pretending to be movie stars in the latest fashion we trudged through the wind and cold down Av des Champs Elysée for baguettes at a table inside next to the window (obviously not brave enough to actually eat ON the avenue). Camilla noticed that while Steve shoved the baguette into him like an enthusiastic trumpet player, Emilie with her natural French style delicately held hers like a flute. We have a lot to learn!

On our way towards Petit Palais Steve gawked at cars and was a little distracted by the advertisements for dancing shows at the Lido, Emilie and Camilla discussed favourite desserts, designers and the passing parade of well dressed Parisians, their children, and even their dogs!

Arriving at the Petit (small) Palais (which would shadow the Queen Victoria Building) we experienced our first Europe art, antiquities and superbly decorated vaulted ceilings some 20 metres above. One, or possibly two photos later and it was time for a hot beverage. Crossing the Pont Alexandre III in the rain the ornate gold statues standing out against the dark sky was surreal.

Filled with tea and confidence Camilla made her first order at a patisserie where the locals queue for the delicassies which are out of this world. SUCCESS! A handful of chocolate macarons, a caramel canelé and a whopping big grin Camilla emerged unscathed.

On to the Hotel des Invalides (historic 4000 bed hospital for wounded soldiers) for a quick peak in the courtyard then to the Metro to make our way to meet Philippe. Although super efficient, at 5pm the Metro is packed (read Sardines in a speeding can).

We changed at Place de Clichy, waited a whole 30 seconds then onto Anvers before climbing Butte Montmartre to basilique du Sacré Coeur. Emilie set Steve the task of counting (out loud in French) the steps. Puffing and panting he proudly announced 'trois cent onze' (311) before admitting to Philippe he may have missed a few.

The ambience inside the church was set by the sound of French nuns singing and the flicker of 100s of candles overseen by a towering vision of Jesus. At dusk looking out from Sacré Coeur through the mist the four of us enjoyed the lights of Paris.

Our stomachs calling aloud, we took a short stroll through the artisan quarters behind the church then descended into Montmartre district for a sensational dinner of Tartiflette (baked layers of creamed potato, bacon, and brie) and confit de canard (slow roasted duck), WOW!

Please read on only if you are older than 35 years.

With some unfounded trepidation we were led willingly by Philippe into the Pigalle. When they say red light district, they didn't mention the rest. Nestled among respectable establishments we did the typical thing and posed (fully clothed) in front of the Moulin Rouge.

Fading slightly from fatigue and full bellies of rich French cuisine we found Philippe's car (no mean feat in the winding back streets) who then offered us a drive around Paris by night. Philippe braved the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysée before coming to a halt under the spectacle which is the Eiffel Tower by night. With only a few minutes to go we stood in anticipation before the 11pm light show. Like an enormous Christmas tree it erupted with sparkling white lights.

Our impromptu driving tour included a pitstop outside the Louvre pyramid, Notre Dame then concluded with the Palais Vincennes (for which everyone except Philippe was fast asleep).

Day 3 - Sunday 25 March

'And on the 3rd Day they rested'. A late start was even later by the fact that daylight saving stole an hour. We walked through Perreux to buy a breakfast of baugette, croissant, croissant au chocolat and a visit to the cheese shop for dinner. After breakfast (midday) Philippe left for theatre practice and we offered to do the shopping.

Armed with a list of three items (in French) we wondered around the markets before arriving just after closing time at the supermarket. FAILURE - not wanting to return empty handed we scoured the shops before finally getting eggs, the wrong type of juice and no bread. 50% is neither pass nor fail.

We are very grateful that our days have included Philippe and Emilie, who welcomed us so warmly and added a real touch of Paris life to the experience so far.