Amalfi

The ferry from Capri took us past the uninhabited westerly point of the Amalfi coastline stopping briefly in Positano for a glimps of the colourful terraced settlement before arriving at Amalfi.

Steve: Excuse me, I am sorry I don't speak Italian, I have a few questions regarding accommodation
Tourist Office Lady: (glare)
Steve: Where is the closest camping please
Tourist Office Lady: 40 minutes by bus up hill (glare)
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there camping in Positano
Tourist Office Lady: how many nights and how much do you want to spend
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there any accommodation in Amalfi for 50 euros or less?
Tourist Office Lady: (absolute silence, picks up phone, loud rude conversation in Italian) He will pick you up here in 5 minutes.
Steve and Camilla converse privately although there was no real time as we were presently being led through whitewashed narrow footpaths behind a friendly local.

Thankfully our fully self-contained 50 euro, 2 bedroom (6 person) apartment, locked in the labyrinth of streets and passageways, allowed us the pleasure of hearing the guitarist sing into the night from the nearby trattoria, look out under a cathedral dome ceiling from the balcony and cook up some pretty damn pork surloin wraps, salads, bangers and mash. This was far from what we expected from the tourist office lady.

We loved the place so much we decided without needing to consult privately that two nights was in order. Amalfi is one of those typical, incredible seaside Italian towns with abundant history, cool white alleyways for pedestrians, great food, great views of the coastline. Wonderful stoppover to spend a few days nursing our upset at leaving Capri.

Our days were spent as if holidaying anywhere in the world. Long afternoon naps, strolling (not hiking), gazing lovingly at our surrounds and each other and eating way too much good food.

We only experienced one dissappointment during this stage of the journey. While Camilla listened to her iPod late on the evening before our departure Steve wondered down to the Marina for a bit of daydreaming. Striking up conversation with the owner, skipper and crew of a nice little Australian registered 62 foot navy blue Moody sloop it was established that they too were departing tomorrow for Greece. A five day journey around the south of Italy followed by a week or two of island hopping.

Picturing with vivid clarity the upcoming 32 hours of bus, train and ferry travel Steve launched (as subtly as possible) into discussion over the possibility that they would benefit from two enthusiastic, fit, lightweight, happy and self-sufficient competent crew. Met with enthusiasm the Skipper, also named Steve, polity offered the following teaser, 'we would be delighted to have you on board (excruciatingly long pause)... however the way we are set and provisioned for tomorrows departure it would be a little difficult, maybe next time as we would love to have you join us'.

Entering the hotel room exclaiming at the top of his lungs 'I have just had the most upsetting experience!' Camilla was not only startled but thought the worst. We TRIED not to think of what would have been the following days. Better to try and have lost than to never have tried at all.