Venice

Arrival - 13 June

Having been shuttled from the port to the main bus station in Venice our accommodation options were merely a dozen phone calls away. It is way more difficult communicating your needs over the phone without the accompanying arm flailings, thankfully each hotel had multilingual staff making the job that much easier.

Having confirmed a night in well positioned and priced 1 star hotel we gave the ambitious estimate that we would be there in 15 minutes. From our location and using the trusty map it looks like it was due east so how hard could that be...

With compass in hand and morning sun position as a guide we were amazed to find how quickly we were staring up a canal from a narrow footpath with nowhere to go! Traditional navigation methods aside we resorted to the best known team orientation method where Steve chooses a street to turn, then Camilla, then Steve and so forth. Incredibly all it took was 30 minutes to find our way perfectly to the Targhetto at the fresh fish markets.

A Targhetto is the workhorse of the gondola family whereby occupants pay 50 cents each to stand (crammed like sardines) into a 25 foot long boat that is less than a metre wide in order to cross the grand canal. Ordinarily this task would be manageable however Sardines don't often carry 50 kilograms worth of mountain camping equipment. With every breath each of us took the boat heaved and rocked sickeningly as we stared blankly across one of the busiest waterways in Europe. Like all good Aussie travellers it was "no worries mate".

Our hotel was more like a small room at the bottom of a real hotel where you place you unwelcome long distance family members when they drop in unannounced. Welcomed by the owner clearly stating we only have one night available and told that our room is hours away from being ready we gladly headed off into the maze like streets to explore.

Into the daylight it was evident what was on our minds, Camilla made a bee line to the closest Venetian glass ring shop whilst Steve pressed his forehead against the window of the butcher next door. Given that it was still only 9 am we compromised on a bakery breakfast of fresh spinach and ricotta pie and fruitcake filled pastry.

Where in the world is better to be entranced by the mesmirising bobs and ducks of thousands of boats. Venice is simply heaven to get lost wandering and admiring a life that vastly different to any we have seen. It became obvious that since every street and canal is of interest you are only ever truly lost if have somewhere particular to be. Thankfully for the next 4 nights we had nowhere else we would rather be.

As if we had a new bout of energy our afternoon waiting for the hotel room was spent feeding pigeons in San Marco square which Camilla was originally reluctant to participate until finally letting out squeals of delight. After fattening the sky rats we admired the grand canal and Rialto bridge, watched the sun set from Ponte Acedemia and listened to classical guitar in the square where we later bought his CD in appreciation.

Day 1 - 14 June

Greeted with a hot chocolate and pastries for breakfast in the hotel we bounced out the front door full of beans and ready to soak up the city. The city on the other hand took it literally and decided to pour for the exact time it took to buy umbrellas and cross the canal (less encumbered) on the targhetto to the fish markets. Our objective was to purchase the very best local seafood in Venice and sit by a canal over lunch time cooking up a storm. We are amazed at how efficiently two hungry backpackers can polish off a kilo of hot mussels, fresh scampi and a bottle of sweet bubbly if given the chance.

At the end of the final tasty morcel the meal was topped off by an unexpected (sort of planned but that is unimportant) call from Jenni - Steve's sister. It is great to hear familiar voices and only amplyfies how much we miss everyone at home. Alternatively, it seems like a far better idea if everyone just joined us over here!

Full as a googie egg from our seafood nosh, and in tact after a near death experience when opening the warm bubbly (Steve's red mark on his forehead has now faded) we passed a canal which was in the process of being cleaned. Each canal is refurbished, maintained and cleaned every 10 years to avoid excess pollution, degredation to foundations etc. Blocked off at each end, the canals are about 2 to 3 metres deep and get drained dryish, certainly an interesting site to see.

Unfortunately our afternoon was marginally hampered by the fact that we need to move hotels across town. Having found an even better location within 2 minutes of St Marks Square and a vastly improved room at a similar rate we navigated our way easily through the maze.

Cooking the remainder of the fresh seafood on the bathroom window sill was a little precarious as we had to lean over the biddae! We tried fresh sardines labouriously filleted by Steve then followed by a big Salmon Steak chaser. A great day of culinary delights in a great city.

Day 2 - 15 June

Eager to get out on the water we made plans to visit the Murano glass houses out in the lagoon and travel around by Vaporetto (ferries) to explore the city with the locals. Murano is a well organised little island where tourists are ushered down to the demonstration glass blowing room before being herded into the souvenir shop. 30 seconds later and we broke away from the flock to make our own way through the rest of the island. Camilla finally found her treasure, a beautiful Murano glass ring, deeply blue with an aqua shimmer within like the ocean.

Our stomachs recalled the previous days indulgence and therefore commenced calling us forth with goodies. Overpaying the bakery for a few rolls was quickly shadowed by the experience of purchasing local vegetables and fruits from the old grocerer in a canal boat.

Armed with a hot BBQ chicken, rolls and other delights we island hopped back one towards Venice for a picnic and realised we had landed ourselves in the major Catholic cemetery. Without too much discussion we were back on another boat post haste and held off until the stop opposite St Marks and the large shipping chanel. Planting ourselves next to a tree on the concrete it was delightful watching Venice from such a vantage point.

Ferry # 82 is worth remembering as it takes cheapskates like us all the way along the Grand Canal as part of the basic commuter ticket. With the front seats on the ferry it was almost an hour later that we had circumnavigated all of Venice and had the pleasure of joining the Gondolas, water taxis and targhettos up the Grand Canal.

The opportunity to sit in one of the great music halls built in 1580 and listen to Vivaldi's 4 seasons, Pachebel's Canone (Camilla walked down the isle to this piece) and other hits from way back when was not to be missed. As if a great dollop of cream had been added to the icing on the cake the poor buggers were dressed in vitage XVIII century regailia. What a treat to see a violin virtuoso (whos name now escapes us) fill the hall with exquisitely detailed sounds, a true highlight.

So inspired are we from the passion which this great music evoked in us we have committed personally, to each other and those poor souls who will no doubt be subject to the endless practice that it is time we take up (or renew) the piano (Steve) and guitar (Camilla). Further review upon our return may ensue. To top off the evening we had 30 seconds left on our boat ticket so we hopped onto the # 82 back down the grand canal at night and disembarked at San Marco.

To our great surprise, and unfortunate delight, St Marks square was rapidly filling with the incoming tide. Persistent in thier quest to entertain their patrons the three famous coffee houses put on a musical show on raised platforms. Dancing in the puddles (thank goodness for Aussie thongs) we waltzed to the greats and swing danced the rest. Reflecting every whisp of light the water that engulfs St Marks so regularly makes for a dazzling portrait of city that is in immanent danger of being lost to all.

Day 3 - 16 June

Exploring the remainder of Venice was as easy as being determined to get lost for a few hours. What a pleasure wondering the narrow alleys, crossing numerous plazzasa and bridges, and oggling every bakery window. En route we caught the targhetto to the fish markets, argued a bit over the need for meat versus squid then gave in to each other and bought both.

At the train station we were blessed with the greatest timing and highlight of the lost traveller experiences. A poor little tourist (no indication of nationality required) came bounding up to us bewildered and asked with sincere concern "Is this Venice???". With the gondolas bobbing only just over our shoulders it was difficult to keep our total shock and disbelief behind our poker faces. Steve calmy replied [i]"I believe so... eh ... good luck".

Our final afternoon was spent cooking, watching the world go by from the top of St Marks tower which affords the most fabulous view of Venice and then finally dancing in the square as the tide pushes up relentlessly.

Leaving in the early on a Sunday morning the air was filled with church bells while the streets were empty. At this moment we knew for certain that one day we would be back.

Venice must be visited at least a couple of times throughout to be truly appreciated. We hope you all get the pleasure of spending time in this fragile and rewarding city.