Cesky Krumlov

Finally another stamp in the passport. While we have each travelled to 10 (or more countries which is debatable if you include principalities or not) the EU member countries have very loose border control processes. As we entered the Czech Replublic on the train we were warmly greeted in the carriage by 4 armed and uniformed border controllers.

20 minutes after this pleasant encounter we were kicked off the direct route train and herded onto 1960s buses due to trackwork (our Cesky may lack some finer translations). Without complaint we arrived in Cesky Budojovice on time and had a good hour up our sleeves for two of Steve's most favourite things. A visit to a new country supermarket, and to order the original Budwieser Budvar beer from Budejovice where it originated. The palers, crappier and unfortunately more profitable 'Bud' of the US has been in court battles for over 50 years as to the original but we now know which is the preference.

Onto an old rattler of a train which may have been the same vintage of the bus it was off to Cesky Krumlov. Knowing little of the destination and entirely amused with the carriage full of teenage Czechs making their way back from a school camp Steve dove off the train for 2 more ORIGINAL Buds for the ride. As the train was only a couple of carriages long it was easy to see past the engine at the overgrown grass between the rail sleepers and the encroaching forest.

Cesky Krumlov - 27 June (Arrival)

As the rain started to spit we were unperturbed in our quest for shelter. It is a great feeling to know that if suitable lodgings are not found we will simply aim at the town square at pitch. Finding accommodation in this medieval town was no qualms as every single backpacker from Austria to Eastern Europe comes via Cesky Krumlov. Having met the very cute receptionist, the price of good food and wine, and dumping our bags in fantastic cheap accommodation it is easy to see why.

Cesky Krumlov is a fairytale town nestled below rolling pasture land, in the crook of a fast flowing river below the Czech Republics second largest (and arguably most picturesque) 11th century castle.

Dinner was the typical self catering we often do just after Steve has been carrying the bags for an extended period i.e. throw everything that weighs anything into a pot and heat. Sitting in our 1/4 acre garden overlooking the imposing town cathedral we enjoyed the view of the setting sun and drank to the Czech Republic.

Day 1 - 28 June

Our morning started with a big walk to find some food given that everything that was left ended up the pot previously mentioned. A big walk in Cesky Krumlov (pronounced Cheskie) would infact lead you off well into the adjoining pasture land on the opposite side of the county, instead we use this terminology to describe the continuous 300 metres of walk following the river bends to the rolled cookie store.

In fact the store was more a hole in the wall with yet another very cute (Steve is typing and therefore can put anything he likes!) Czech bakerette. Rolled cookies are baked around a large hot cylinder then dipped in butter and covered with almonds, cinnamon and suger. In retrospect we only needed one but two seemed the right and proper thing to do...

Climbing the winding cobblestone stairs through town to the bridge entrance of the castle we took time to admire the greeting party. In the bear pit there was no less than three... BEARS. What did you think we were going to say? Very cute, certainly cuddly and at a distance as tame as a kitten. No further experiments were made regarding their friendliness.

Straight up the closest vantage point we climbed the 13th-16th century tower (difficult to give an age to many things in Europe from the middle ages as they have frequently been burnt down, redeveloped etc.) Looking like a giant kids playground rocketship the tower has one of the most stunning frescos covering its outer stones. From the top we could see into the distant forests, hills and down to the jigsaw puzzle streets of Krumlov.

At 1:20pm our tour of the Rosenburg castle commenced with the increasingly gorgeous tour guide Camilla. A tour of a medieval castle with no less than 2 beautiful blue eyed, brunette and porcelain skinned Camillas was a treat for Steve. Camilla hung on every word and was suitably distracted by the bearskin rugs, 16th century interior frescos and perfectly maintained period furniture. Near the end of the visit we saw the golden carriage, used once to deliver presents to the pope it was adorned with over 2kgs of leaf gold. The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Masquerade hall with no less than 123 personalities in costume frescoed on all walls.

Now absolutely famished only one Czech traditional meal would suffice. Ordering the Bohemian feast with phesant, millet, potato, smoked bacon, yogurt dressing, saurkraut, beer and a goblet of wine we sat for the best part of the afternoon by the river below the castle (nb: castle tower climbed earlier on the left of the photo below).

Cesky Krumlov has been one of the great stops made on the trip so far and whilst not being a truly accurate and comprehensive cross-section of the entire Czech Republic, we do hope it is a relatively accurate preview of what may be to come.