Mar 2007

Day 4 - 26 March
Our first objective for today was to get out of Paris a little to explore the famous Chateau of Versaille. On arrival from the RER we did not find any hords of tourists, just the looming wings of this enormous holiday house (think Circular Quay) for the French aristocracy. After consuming two well needed baguettes in the gardens looking through the avenues of trees we went in search of the entrance only to find out that it was closed. Neither of us minded too much as it was a good excuse to look around town.

Unperturbed we returned to Paris determined to climb the towers of St Michel Notre Dame Cathedral. The enormous rose shaped stain glass windows, vast interior and soaring ceiling draws numerous wanabe artists with note book and pencils. We were silent for much of the time trying simply to absorb the beauty of the place and try to picture what it would have taken to build such a magnificent structure.

We resorted to English to figure out where to enter the towers and made haste to the queue. Thankfully we were some of the last to be allowed to enter which was lucky. The spiral staircase can make you dizzy with hundreds of steps (no-one was counting this time...) Looking over Paris between the faces of gargoyles is just like the postcards, however when standing 50 metres above St Michel plaza to hear the cathedral bell ringing right next to you across Paris cannot be compared.

After listening to jazz players on the bridge we took a short stroll across Paris (30 minutes) through St. Germain des Prix peering into the boutique stores we arrived outside the Patheon. Surrounding the square is the University building and endless students soaking up the last rays of sunlight. Emilie was a little late as her research mice spleen needed DNA extraction so we bought a phone card
and let Philippe know we were hungry.

Walking through the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter we opted for a very French cuisine (kebabs) sitting alfresco on the banks of the Seine under Notre Dame and Petit Pont (the little wooden bridge). Groups of young school tourists on the cruise boats developed the habit of screeming at the top of their lungs under each bridge to hear the echo as loud as Notre Dame bell! A particular loud individual (15 year old girl) yelled Bonjour in classic American and met with a very Ozzie 'Bonjour to you too', 'oh your English giggle giggle', 'no, we are AUSTRALIAN!'. Philippes banter back didn't help our arguement by taunting them in colourful French.

Day 5 - 27 March
Our typing muscles are wearing so thankfully Day 5 was a little simpler. It is known that the Louvre, which we planned for tomorrow is one of the great art collections yet the Musee D'Orsay holds some fabulous works. After catching 3 interlinked metro trains we were in the queue within 30 minutes and another 15 minutes until we were in.

The first sight of the grand hall is out of this world as it is dotted with famous sculptures and flooded with natural light. We thought that given this gallery is tiny in comparison to its big sister it would only take a short time to enjoy the offering. Almost 3 hours later and we had to stop for a lunch of muffins and biscuits before making our way out into the brilliant day.

To reward our efforts we lazed in the Jardin de Luxembourg, a landscape art work well worth the visit. Watchin old men play boulle not to mention dozing a little in the sun made us blend in easily with the locals.

Our second misjudgement of time for the day was in being determined to walk to the Tour Eiffel. Over 1 hour later and we had a glimps of our final conquest for today. Although the third level was closed (good excuse to revisit on our return) the 2nd floor left us amply impressed. Paris roof tops are almost as intricate as the streets below with balconies and courtyards which can only be properly viewed from this superb structure. Now freezing and hungry our hearts were set on a small French restaurant back in the Latin Quarter (read-more walking!)

A hearty three course Menu later in a romantic little place 'Demi Lune', a few escargot, two types of canard (duck) and creme brulee and we were finished (literally). Catching the last metro back to Perreux sur Marne we reflected on a day never to be forgotton.

Day 6 - 28 March
Le Louvre - it is know to be big, really really big. We can attest to the fact that even with a week of walking, perfect understanding of French and a GPS / Compass or tour guide it would be impossible to take it all in. Honestly, it seemed better to not even try so with a tick list shorter than this blog we marvelled at great works for almost 6 hours. Not as impressed with the most famous Mona Lisa, it seems such a shame that the focus is on this one painting when located in a room of numerous works all equally detailed. All art buffs should ignore that last sentence.

Philippe was a great guide as he could translate the intricate descriptions (although sometimes abbreviated) and seemed to enjoy his first visit to the local Art Gallery. At this point you may think 'shame, shame, shame' but like us not climbing the Harbour Bridge it is understandable that a lifetime in a city such as Paris will provide an opportunity some day.

Lunch on the grass watching school children play soccer was very relaxing, and luckily we did not fall asleep which was otherwise very tempting. 10 kilometres of gallery gazing later and the first quarter of the Louvre was complete.

A brief look at the Paris Opera reminded us that art in Paris is both inside and out, and in the case of the Opera House it is just how we pictured the phantom's manor, who was unfortunately not home. Beer-o-clock was held in a small French establishment called Sherwood which was actually Spanish followed by tartines for dinner where we thanked Philippe and Emilie frequently for their hospitality.

Day 7 - 29 March
Waking up today was a little difficult knowing we had to leave Paris and our friends behind, however our return in September is now, more than ever, a priority on this trip.

Our flight to Madrid went flawlessly (nothing to report). After landing in Madrid we came to compare their metro system with Paris on the way to the Cat's Hostel. It could almost considered better from a visitors perspective and appears very new. 1 euro, 20 minutes and 3 trains later and we arrived at our beds for the evening.

It is worth leaving it hear for now just by saying that if Paris has not been on your travel plans to date, it comes with the Camilla and Steve tick of approval as one of the greatest cities imaginable. Good luck Europe, you have big shoes to fill.

\Photos to be posted later.

Day 0 - Thursday 22 March

The flight to Paris was our longest ever (13 hours) but it did give us time to savour French food so we think we could have stayed on for longer. We were greeted at the airport by our good friend Philippe and driven (on the wrong side of the road) to his home in Perreux sur Marne. After 30+ hours awake, an hour long stroll along the bank of the river, welcome drinks and introductions, and a DELICIOUS Roquefort Risotto prepared by Emilie (Philippe's girlfriend) we were beat.

Day 1 - Friday 23 March

Looking out of the window through the blossum trees and across the river early in the morning was a vision. A very French breakfast (coffee) and it was off to the Neuilly Plaisance train station to catch an RER into the centre of Paris. Our first view of Paris was from under the hoods of our rain jackets. After finding the banks of the Seine we strolled from Gare de Lyon past Notre Dame, a painter under the Petit Pont, Musée D'Orsay, numerous tents supplied for the homeless alongside beutifully preserved river barges before making our way into the back streets to find;

[*]1. Une Toillette Gratuit (Public Dunny - A.S.A.P. - not as easy as it sounds)

[*]2. Hot Tea - it was 6 °C, raining and windy so this item was essential rather than desired

[*]3. Lunch?

In a small lane behind the Hotel Invalides we found a tiny Café Bar where we joined the locals as they dove in for a three course lunch during their break. The Thé helped warm us through however it was more the energy of the owners serving people coffee and wine, and the fact that there were 40 people or more fogging up the windows.

Lunch came in the form of une baguette et une baguette au chocolat (no surprise there), which we munched on our way to view a big tower everyone talks about. It was lucky we had swallowed the last piece before gasping at the majestic Tour Eiffel. Although completely symetrical, photos from only one side was insufficient so we covered every angle and distance (still raining remeber) before taking a moment to realise the extent of our satisfaction at living in the present.

Still content in our rain jackets, thermals and relative lack of tourists (whimps) we crossed the Seine at Pont Bir-Hakeim looking at the mini Statue Liberté to Rive Droite (right bank) and sought refuge under the stairs of Palais de Chaillot. Looking back across the river to Tour Eiffel we agreed that this city has a timeless beauty.

Satisfied with our navel gazing it was time for un café crème in a funky little bar before meeting Emilie and Philippe in front of the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). From the town hall we traced the steps of their first date, walking through the Marais area to a French (who would have thought)the restaurant Crêpe Suzette to enjoy the Brittany regions traditional recipe (Emilie's home town) with apple cider.

Absolutely exhausted we returned to the apartment and took one quick glance at the lights over Perreux before bed.

Day 2 - Saturday 24 March

Fortunately, Emilie had today off while Philippe was working so it was to our delight that we had a Parisian led tour of this great city. It was an early start (almost midday) when we caught the train to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. On the final escalator leaving the Metro Emilie said with a smile 'Voila', and there at the top in the freezing wind stood the Arc de Triomphe. In text books it looks big, on post cards it looks big, on the map it looks big and then you see it...

Despite the number of crazy tourists out in the cold and rain (they finally joined us) we felt alone in our thoughts about how humble this great structure honouring fallen soldiers made us feel. A few hundred photos later and the decision to fill our slack jaws with lunch was agreed.

Pretending to be movie stars in the latest fashion we trudged through the wind and cold down Av des Champs Elysée for baguettes at a table inside next to the window (obviously not brave enough to actually eat ON the avenue). Camilla noticed that while Steve shoved the baguette into him like an enthusiastic trumpet player, Emilie with her natural French style delicately held hers like a flute. We have a lot to learn!

On our way towards Petit Palais Steve gawked at cars and was a little distracted by the advertisements for dancing shows at the Lido, Emilie and Camilla discussed favourite desserts, designers and the passing parade of well dressed Parisians, their children, and even their dogs!

Arriving at the Petit (small) Palais (which would shadow the Queen Victoria Building) we experienced our first Europe art, antiquities and superbly decorated vaulted ceilings some 20 metres above. One, or possibly two photos later and it was time for a hot beverage. Crossing the Pont Alexandre III in the rain the ornate gold statues standing out against the dark sky was surreal.

Filled with tea and confidence Camilla made her first order at a patisserie where the locals queue for the delicassies which are out of this world. SUCCESS! A handful of chocolate macarons, a caramel canelé and a whopping big grin Camilla emerged unscathed.

On to the Hotel des Invalides (historic 4000 bed hospital for wounded soldiers) for a quick peak in the courtyard then to the Metro to make our way to meet Philippe. Although super efficient, at 5pm the Metro is packed (read Sardines in a speeding can).

We changed at Place de Clichy, waited a whole 30 seconds then onto Anvers before climbing Butte Montmartre to basilique du Sacré Coeur. Emilie set Steve the task of counting (out loud in French) the steps. Puffing and panting he proudly announced 'trois cent onze' (311) before admitting to Philippe he may have missed a few.

The ambience inside the church was set by the sound of French nuns singing and the flicker of 100s of candles overseen by a towering vision of Jesus. At dusk looking out from Sacré Coeur through the mist the four of us enjoyed the lights of Paris.

Our stomachs calling aloud, we took a short stroll through the artisan quarters behind the church then descended into Montmartre district for a sensational dinner of Tartiflette (baked layers of creamed potato, bacon, and brie) and confit de canard (slow roasted duck), WOW!

Please read on only if you are older than 35 years.

With some unfounded trepidation we were led willingly by Philippe into the Pigalle. When they say red light district, they didn't mention the rest. Nestled among respectable establishments we did the typical thing and posed (fully clothed) in front of the Moulin Rouge.

Fading slightly from fatigue and full bellies of rich French cuisine we found Philippe's car (no mean feat in the winding back streets) who then offered us a drive around Paris by night. Philippe braved the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysée before coming to a halt under the spectacle which is the Eiffel Tower by night. With only a few minutes to go we stood in anticipation before the 11pm light show. Like an enormous Christmas tree it erupted with sparkling white lights.

Our impromptu driving tour included a pitstop outside the Louvre pyramid, Notre Dame then concluded with the Palais Vincennes (for which everyone except Philippe was fast asleep).

Day 3 - Sunday 25 March

'And on the 3rd Day they rested'. A late start was even later by the fact that daylight saving stole an hour. We walked through Perreux to buy a breakfast of baugette, croissant, croissant au chocolat and a visit to the cheese shop for dinner. After breakfast (midday) Philippe left for theatre practice and we offered to do the shopping.

Armed with a list of three items (in French) we wondered around the markets before arriving just after closing time at the supermarket. FAILURE - not wanting to return empty handed we scoured the shops before finally getting eggs, the wrong type of juice and no bread. 50% is neither pass nor fail.

We are very grateful that our days have included Philippe and Emilie, who welcomed us so warmly and added a real touch of Paris life to the experience so far.

After a slightly turbulent flight we arrived safely in Hong Kong. Without a window seat we had not yet seen the colossal towers until the super efficient, smooth and clean express train to Kowloon.

Trying to refrain from spending money on the taxi a good 20 minutes was spent walking in loops (3x) around the bus depot looking for K5! The taxi ride was pleasant...

The Chung King Mansion, 38 Nathan Road is one of those sights which at first is not all that inviting however when you know a bed (regardless of how short or narrow) is waiting it is worth putting on the rose coloured glasses and entering.

Twin beds, bath/shower/toilet, TV, fridge and dressing table within a space the size or our tent - how do they do it?

Our Hong Kong experience, although packed with sights was taken at a very relaxing pace. Our first day began with a ride on the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island with the morning commuters followed by a traditional breakfast (pork buns, and bacon and egg noodle soup) in Jardine House. We took in the architechture and watched local fishermen from the foreshore walk to Causeway Bay then relaxed in Victoria Park listening to children play in the park.

After lunch (Vietnamese?) we hopped on the double decker tram and chatted to the locals about life on Hong Kong Island. There was resounding agreement that Hong Kong has a lot of people (yep) which makes it quite crowded (yep yep). Without further adue we mounted the worlds longest series of escalators (about 25 in total).

A walk (downhill) to the botanical and zoological gardens took us to the Peak Tram lower station. What a ride, what a view from the top of the Peak and thankfully we remembered to sit on the right hand side. At the top it was time for more escalators (dozens we are sure) for a viewing deck unsurpassed in Hong Kong. To take in so many buildings in one view is incredible.

Coffee was calling so we sat above the Tram station and watched the sun go down while the lights of the city came alive. Following one more trip to the top for night shots and we were starting to crave a traditional dinner. Unfortunately, when on a tight budget not all the options at hand are possible, and incredibly the majority of restaurants on the Peak were not chinese (American +++, Indian & Japanese ++).

With various attempts to communicate with our waitress it was time to eat what we were served. Our Cantonese has let us down once again!

Day 2 commenced late as our only plans were to visit the Kowloon Gardens and Space Centre. Steve gave in to temptation and bought some ice-cream (MacDonalds - tut tut) then went shopping for a belt as his pants required hoisting. Mil drooled (not over Steve's pants) over the fashion shops which held exquisite French and Italian designs.

School children around 5-6 years old were having three-legged races and dancing to the wiggles in English? It is not difficult to see how in another 10 years English will be the world language. Deciding we needed to further educate ourselves we headed to the Space Centre and Chinese Art Gallery. Mil walked on the moon (simulated unfortunately), then we embossed some paper with lucky charms in the art gallery. Thankfully it was Wednesday Free Entry so we certainly got our moneys worth.

After strolling through the Peninsula Hotel (Studio AUD$800 p/night > Peninsula Suite AUD$8,000 p/n) we went to the bakery for lunch, selected various chinese sandwiches and sat on the wharf watching the boats. The final challenge was to find our ideal traditional chinese dinner. The %^&*# Hot Pot Restaurant was a winner.

Our recommendations for a stopover in Hong Kong:

[*]Star Ferry with morning commuters to Hong Kong Island

[*]Double decker tram ride down the centre of town and chat to friendly locals

[*]Peak Tram ride to top of Asia, what a view, what a city (day and night essential)

[*]Shopping, shopping and maybe some eating too

We are now boarding our flight AF183 to Paris so pictures will follow. Hope you are all well and enjoying the tale so far.

Why do this? Like two little sponges thrown out in the worlds oceans we can do nothing more than enjoy being saturated by life. We invite you to share our journey with us...