Apr 2007

Afternoon Arrival - April 12

Trains in France are by far the best way to get around. After waking up relatively early in Montpellier we packed, which takes a variable amount of time depending on if it is pre or post tea intake, and took a quick step to the station in the rain. Approximately 3 hours on the train and by early afternoon we approached the busy station at Lyon.

Metro systems have to date been the bees knees in Europe. They make sense, are regular and reliable, fast and much (much, much, much) better than walking. Across town in Lyon to Vieux Lyon station at the bottom of the fenicular railway we exited convinced that the best way to the hostel was a quick jog up hill. 20 minutes later we were dripping with sweat and being ignored by the little French barmaid/receptionist/hotellier. Our advice to all non-European born travellers is to pay attention to lunch time and make your arrival either before 12 or after 4pm.

On being offered single sex dormitory rooms without lockers plus the necessity to buy a hostelling international card, it worked out to be $25 cheaper to find our own room in a 1 or 2 star hotel. At this point the work began! Steve asked in relatively clear French for recommendations on nearby cheap accommodation to be told clearly in English that the "information" attendant only sold fenicular rail tickets and had no idea.

A phone booth was then next step so with 4 or 5 phone calls the textbook questions where utilised. Our decision was made on two factors, how much less than the overpriced hostel and how close to this exact phone booth. Our room was on the second floor of an early 18th century apartment block with high cielings, long corridor, spiral staircase, big room, french doors and our own balcony. Catering over the next three days was an event on the balcony each evening, Camilla even carried the shopping all the way across town.

Tourist information did the big sell on us so we opted for a Lyon City Card at 15 euros a piece to explore all the attractions of this exciting city. Time for some sleep as tomorrow would be a well packed day of sightseeing.

Day 1 - Friday 13 April

With the snooze button firmly pressed Steve dove out of bed to prepare poached eggs, tomato and camembert on a fresh flute (bread) complimented (of course) with tea.

The Lyon card includes unlimited travel on the metro, bus, fenicular rail and tram system. We started at the Musee des beaux Arts for an hour of inspirational Roden sculptures, more mummies and Greek artifacts before Monet, Matisse, Picasso ... in the contemporary wing which smelt of Camilla's high school art room. The Lyon art gallery was very well laid out so the entire facility could be toured in a logical and efficient way.

Our visit to the Minitures museum had us wondering what we were in store for with the advertisement giving little away. Once inside we walked through a recreation of sets from 'The Parfume', a movie recently released with Dustin Hoffman set in the 1800s (a little spooky). The permanent exhibitions were realistic creations of everyday scenes, comedic moments in life and fantastic models of building, match stick carvings and paper cuttings done with attention to minute detail.

Back to our roots a little, we visited Lyon's hospital and the museum of medical relics from the 1600s onwards. We are so glad to not have to meet the plague doctor in thier black crow like mask and gown or be bled of bad blood. We can't believe they had beds made for 5 patients at a time, post slots for abandoned children or dental tools suitable for work on semitrailers.

Our first fully relaxing moment was on the river cruise (all included) which took us to the Ile Barbe in the Soane river upstream from Lyon. For an hour we delighted in the sights of gorgeous homesteads and giggled at the young tour guides English pronunciation.

The highlight of our day was attending the famous Guignol childrens puppet theatre. 'Le Tour de Monde' was so entertaining with 50cm tall dolls with charismatic faces play out a search for treasure around the globe. To add to the spectacle the children from 5 to 10 years old (at least we had a good view over all their heads) interacted with the characters throughout the show. It is so funny hearing them yell in French at the characters and sqweel with delight at the baddy losing out to the good guys. Our tour backstage revielled the intricate setup of puppet faces, props and sound effects as well as the puppetiers.

A quick pitstop at our balcony/restaurant/kitchen produced bread and vegetable soup before leving for the fenicular railway to the top of the hill. What an injustice to glide past the point we struggled to on the first day with no effort at all. At the top we walked around Notre Dame de Fourviere, a spectacular cathedral situated high on the hill overlooking Lyon, the rivers Rhone and Soane and the farmland beyond.

Day 2 - 14 April

Camilla took the risk and let Steve off to the Boulangerie for fresh baguette while she paid 2.50 euros for a shower (not the best either) to wash the mop. Purchased a mobile phone card and a ticket to Le Puy en Velay to start our rural adventures the following day.

A stroll through the old town took us via willow trees along the river and boats holding smart cars on their roof. A splash out included coffees and citrus tarts while listening to a ceilo and violin players outside the church. We decided to come back in the afternoon for a free jazz/rock concert outside the even bigger church and on our walk to the venue we were passed by approximately 500 motorbike riders rallying against something or other.

The final splash was a local delicacy called tuile, basically a pan fried anzac biscuit covered in almonds and curved around a big tin. It was a great couple of days and was enjoyed in style in a city well worth the visit. If it weren't for Paris, Lyon would definetly attract the world to it's winding streets, great restaurants (our balcony) and entertaining venues as a must see in France.

When we say dash to the train station please keep in mind the 10 kg of shopping, afternoon tea and a couple of bottles of wine had been enjoyed over the previous days.

Our train to Montpellier was not booked as yesterday was a public holiday so Steve had a crash course in requesting tickets post haste as the TGV had just arrived! The TGV is the Concord of the railway with streamlined bullet like nose and not a whisper of sound from outside when underway. What a smooth ride through the gorgeous countryside at around 150km/h, almost half the TGV top speed but still got Steve very excited as the carriage leans into each corner.

Montpellier - Ou est l'accommodation s'il vous plait

Bless the Tourist information office in the centre of town, and the friendly tri-lingual Japanese-French English speaking assistant. A few calls later and we had a 32 euro per night room with shower right next to the camping supply store (could you ask for more?)

Tea is an essential part of every civilised society so why should Chateau Hall (a.k.a the tent) be without. Our brand new cooker, pot and pan set, gas cylinder and new found sense of self reliance was worth the wait. With this acquisition behind us it was absolutely time for fast food?!

Quick is like MacDonalds / Hungry Jacks with subliminal messages implanted into the rap songs played soothingly over the loudspeaker to buy more food. It was better (marginally) than Maccas which says a lot and gave the same satisfying feeling of a heavy and full tummy. Surprisingly, fast food does not cater well for travellers on a tight budget and we have found that the staple local diets are far better value overall.

To the bookshop for some planning tools! We were in search of a walk through the French countryside to epitomise the rural lifestyle and find something off the beaten track. In the end we selected one of the excellent topoguide book specific for the well trodden path (Grand Radonnee) of Robert Louis Stevenson through the Cevennes. One small problem, it is in French so a pocket dictionnary rounded off the purchase.

We have found it difficult to make some decisions throughout this trip, particularly given the density and richness of culture and options throughout this corner of Europe. The cities possess so much to see yet the countryside is calling.

A stroll through Montpellier has led us past a breakdancing competition in the spring gardens, the super modern plaza hotel de ville and residential plazas, canal, winged victory (copy from the Louve) and an authentic Aussie Pub (we beg to differ).

Shopping in the Coles / Woolworths equivalent was a supervised excursion this time with Camilla leading purposefully through the chips and biscuits isle before Steve found a bag of pre-prepared microwavable snails (pack of 50 for 20 euros - bargain). Their regular food supermarket is great competition for David Jones foodcourt in Sydney with such variety and delicacies.

Hmmm, delicacies! Without actually using the dictionnary we recognised the word beef and assumed the other word was for kebab (you know the ones on the stick). The cooking aparatus worked perfectly, the table was set, hunger was subsiding until Camilla piked up after close examination of the morcels. GET ME THAT DICTIONNARY! Moments later and we were consoling each other in peels of laughter at how similar heart and kidney tastes to sirloin kebabs.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MUM/LIZ! We are thinking of you.

Montpellier - 11 April

Tea and the unmistakable taste of scrambled eggs on baguette in the morning has justified the cost of the stove in a single meal.

An enthusiastic start in the overcast day has led us through the shops, main plaza and tourist office before a complicated 20 minutes on French only booking of trains for tomorrow. Camilla says Steve did very well (thankully the train was not on the platform this time). We will see if the tickets actually take us to Lyon tomorrow.

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Another Early Start

We forgot there was a 5.30 in each morning but there we were wet, cold and with smiles from ear to ear at the day ahead. It is incredible to think that you can wake up in a tent 20km south of Barcelona and within the day be setting it up again in glorious French countryside sunshine.

Our bus to town, metro rides then long distance coach to Narbonne and finally a train to Carcassonne is a distance of nearly 250km and the entire trip cost less than 80 euros. It still eats into the daily budget but well worth it when you consider it is changing countries.

Carcassonne campsite would have felt closer to the train station if Steve wasn't let loose alone in a French supermarche hungry and enthusiastic. With approximately 10 kg of additional baggage we trudged through the winding streets across the old bridge to have La Cite unveil itself from behind the trees. Carcassonne holds Europe's largest fortified medieval city and was host to Monty Pythons 'Life of Brian'.

Picking our tent site was easy, we just needed to make sure that the sunset to our backs did not distract from the view of La Cite over the river. As campsites go, Carcassonne is 4 star with great facilities and a multilingual and very patient attendant who put up with Steve's attempts to communicate.

A day in the Life of Brian - 8 April

Midday came around as quickly as changing countries in Europe. It was necessary to wash the rain from Spain out of our clothes (by hand - we thought that was fitting) only to realise the washing machines were across the field.

Strolling through Carcassonne was the entire adventure for today, entering via the side gate we peered through cracks in the fortifications to identify the river below and found our way to a central plaza for lunch. Lunch (mostly leftovers from Steve's shopping adventure) was complimented by the atmosphere of almost 200 tables and chairs set below vines and awnings for fellow travellers.

Leaving via the ramparts (top of the wall around the city) we gawked at the rolling countryside in all directions. Across the drawbridge (no charging stallion or sword in hand unfortunately) we lost ourselves in the gardens along the river before entering town. The return to the tent site took us past fishermen and a family of ducklings only days old.

It may just be in our imagination but wine and cheese in the grass tastes better when you have carried it back from town via ducklings and fishermen. A marshmellow chaser was organised where we befriended Jake and Mitsy (a couple from Wales and London). Their extraordinary plan is to hitchhike from London to Morroco in less than 3 weeks for an African education charity. By the time we all felt sick on marshmellows an amicable trade was made of one map of France (well 'thumbed') for a little used but useful Spannish phrase book. We wish them well.

Carcassonne - 9 April

Today was taken at leisure with chores completed and the whole of France shut down for Easter Monday.

A map when travelling without real plans is a mesmerising read getting lost in the names and possibilities of each place. The Lonely Planet unfortunately could not possibly supply enough information so we were in need of a hitch hikers guide to the galaxy. A stab in the dark lead us to the decision we would make our way east rather than west at this point.

Afternoon tea is a great activity for budget concious travellers so we strolled ever so diligently back up the steps to the old city to oggle the cafe and patisserie for the perfect treat. Nous choison un chocolat chaud et une the, ensuite, je voudrais une tarte au citron meringue et une mollieruex au chocolat. For anyone who does not read poor French, and those that can and are embarrassed for Steve, the translation is simple - too much yummy stuff!

An early night was in order as tomorrow would require some concentration and a long walk.

Valencia to Barcelona

Ouch, an early start again. We thought the idea of avoiding organised tours was that you set your own timetable! There was a bus to catch on the other side of the historic town of Valencia so while the Spannish got over Sangria from the night before we toddled off.

What a flash ride. The only thing the ride lacked was wings with leather seats and polite service, free tea (lucky or Steve may just keel over and give up) and very chatty Spannish stewardess.

Our arrival was celebrated with drizzle, and to add a smallish insult to injury we couldn't find the next bus stop following the Lonely Planet directions. It was here that we became determined that regardless of fatigue, heavy packs and hunger that we would camp even if it the site was on the moon.

Where in the world is Cassadefels you ask? It is well and truly past the stop for our campsite. Lunch was enjoyed sitting in another bus stop about 30km south of the city we intended to visit tomorrow.

Barcelona - 5 April (WE SURVIVED)

It rained for most of the evening however our tent is rated for 100km winds, snow etc. therefore we emerged warm and dry (PHEW).

In Barcelona we were among the few crazy tourists out that day so we took advantage and walked to the top of Monjuic Palacia Nacional for an equisite view across the rooftops. From this angle Barcelona is similar in many ways to Paris with a few notable architectural monuments jutting out of a well planned cityscape. A downhill stroll through the gardens brought us to the Supermercado for a stockup of gigantic proportions (they do say never shop hungry).

Our multidirectional stroll (polite for lost but don't care) brought us out of the winding streets right where we wanted next to Barcelona Port. We ate at a very exclusive restaurant overlooking the superyacht marina (do the front steps count?) Tapas a-la-Hall were devoured under the watchful eye of the restaurant owner and every single school kid in Spain currently on holidays.

It was time for the beach (as if we weren't wet enough already) only to applaud Barcelona for being well set up to entertain the summer hoards. Following a deep conversation over our life aspirations we stumbled upon La Rambla (Champs Ellysee of Barcelona);
[list]ASPIRATIONS
[*]Camilla- one pair of red high heels, fitted ski suit, children galore and a house overlooking Sydney Harbour (order under review)
[*]Steve- wardrobe from Burberry, tough truck and enormous yacht, children galore and a tent overlooking Camilla's house

La Rambla is a the epicentre of cool Barcelona with street performers painted in silver or gold and some wearing eloborate costume, markets and restaurants. It was absolutely time for tea at this point to wash down the kilo (literally) of strawberries purchased at the market.

Barri Gotic cathedral was as the name suggested elaborately gothic in appearance. A small donation seemed in order to help preserve this masterpiece. A much larger donation was required to secure tickets for tomorrow night's show of Opera-y-Flamenco at the theatre on La Rambla.

Barcelona - take two

The sun was shining over the mediterranean making the tent look even more perfect (such proud owners) which inspired us to stay the extra night and soak up everything possible. Soak it up we did starting at Sagrada Familia. Steve was in tears most of the time for the price we were charged to enter this monstrousity. Only half finished (after nearly 100 years) it was a grand tour of a construction site with a completion date on Spannish time (i.e. 2082 - quote Lonely Planet). All in all the modern cathedral of Gaudi is incredible if not totally repugnant. It depends on taste and may (according to Camilla) require a womens touch.

Lunch a-la-parkbench was enjoyed watching two oldies (greater than 26 years) playing ping pong on one of the permanent tables that are setup throughout Spain. A long walk to the Arc de Triomf for a second time, one raining one not, was timely as two friendly Australian travellers required expert photographic assistance.

A dinner before a show is in Camilla's little rule book (if you find a copy please post ASAP to Steve) and under the heading "What I Want Right Now" reads steak, just steak, any steak will do. Evidently the one provided will not do mostly due to the fact it was paper thin and spent the same 10minutes Steve's paella took to cook. Transcending all language barriers the polite Spannish, English, Vietnamese, English retort produced another paella with our gratitude.

Opera may not be entirely our taste but when mixed with the exciting music produced by Spannish composers it comes alive. Flamenco on the other hand was precisely why we were there and left understanding this form a little more. We noted that Flamenco comes across very aggressive yet passionate, rythmical in the way another instrument would be played through movement and sound; and thoroughly engrossing. What a great show!

Ahh, sweet metro helped us cover the same distance in 5 minutes as our walk in the rain on the first day took in 40 minutes. Exiting the station underground was timed perfectly as our send off from Barcelona with the most amazing light and water show. Cascades and almost 1 km of fountains lead up to Palau Nacional which is framed by high intensity sky beams radiating from the domed roof. Needless to say we took a photo.

The next day we gambled on whether the bus and train timetables will operate on Easter Saturday and came off lucky.

Segovia to Valencia - 2 April

An early start (truly, with a 6am rise) required no less than a chocolate croissant still warm from the oven and water for the bus ride to Madrid. The bus ride didn´t feel like long at watching the sun come up over the colourful farms. We were delivered directly to the impossible to find underground bus stop only to realise that the next bus to Valencia leaves from the other side of town. A quick metro and we were again searching for a tiny bus stop only to realise it was a metropolis of activity behind another hotel.

Arriving in Valencia was less than impressive with no idea of where we were and only a Spannish version of the tourist guide available. After finally sqwabling for an English map we strutted off confidently into the historic streets of Valencia. It was not long until we were standing in a hostel to be told there were no beds left. A short walk round the corner and we had a bed in a Spannish Pension (cheap accommodation).

Pizza and bread stick snacks kept us going then onto the most disorganised camping equipment store on Earth where we found nothing. The Basilica Virgin de Los Desamparados was a replica of Notre Dame in many ways, possibly from the same plans. A service going on across the immense room with choir singing which added great ambience.

Dinner was a true backpackers affair with takeaway pasta salad and confit of duck (we think) sitting in the main square. Interestingly there were two clock towers which chimed one after the other so we did not know the correct time.

A Day in Valencia - 3 April

It was a gorgeous sunny day luckily so we made haste to the first day of trials for the 32nd America's Cup match racing. Just offshore we could see the boats jostling for position. Entering the complex Steve was berrated by the security guard for carrying a pocket knife, thankfully returned at the end of the day. It was evident that plenty more work is required before the main event commences. Our highlight was to activity participate in racing the yachts! You are asking yourself how, rest assured they were only 3 feet long and in a pool no deeper than your knee, what fun.

Our short stroll back to the historic centre of town was via the immense green space stretching the entire way around the city. Mostly notably, Valencia has some of the most impressive modern architecture we have seen. The parks were filled with activities and people which gave us enough to look at.

A splurge on dinner was necessary to replenish so we asked 'tondo Esta el supermacado?' and found ample supplies for a gourmet meal in our smokey room. With an early (6am) start required it was time for sleep after a great day in this modern Spannish seaside town.