Leaving Siena, no-one noticed their allocated seating number on the ticket except Camilla who passionately wanted to stick to the rules and was met with an unruly group of mid 50s southern Americans (pack of 8 types) insistent that they knew nothing about seating arrangements. Forgetting this oversight we ended up with a 4 seat all to ourselves as we entered the glitzy (read dingy), glamourous (read grafiti covered) end of Rome.
Camping Roma
Determined to ignore anything younger than 2000 years we made haste through the metro and bus system and 1.5 hours later arrived at Camping Roma. The helpful receptionist (capable of 5 languages) said we could take our pick of sites. After assessing the first 30 or 40 we came to the conclusion they were all full of rocks. Our decision came down to how big the rocks were. Like a cute little cat, we settled on a patch which looked, felt and unfortunately smelt like kitty litter.
Without delay the embassy was standing tall and we deserted it for an evening in Roma (take her for espresso, yeah I guess so... on an evening in Roma).
With Dean Martin songs humming through our heads we jumped out of the graffiti embellished metro at Colloseo. It is unimaginable when planning a trip from home just what it will feel like to finally reach the 'must do' destination. Regardless of how many pictures we have seen, regardless of how many times we have pictured it in our heads, the Colloseum is awesome to behold.
Despite Camilla's initial observation 'It looks smaller in real life' we found the our way with enthusiam to the front entrance (finding the front of a round building is easy, follow the American tour groups). Two words budget backpackers love beyond all others, Entrada Gratuito (FREE ENTRACE). Cultural week coincides perfectly with our planned visit to Rome so all of the state monuments and museums are free to all visitors.
Having saved the entrance fee (score) we splurged on an audioguide to accompany us around the monument. Learning all we could of the history by paraphasing in turn the dialogue to one another we found the Colloseum gory to say the least, facinating and strikingly beautiful as the sun went down.
Next stop was the Trevi Fountain via something to eat. Although the Chinese Restaurant was only steps from the fountain our feet carried us directly past to take a first visit of this enormous marble artform. A few coins over shoulders and we needed our first asiapacific meal.
After dinner we paused again at the Trevi fountain as the lights came on and made our way to the bustling spanish steps. Littered with young canoodling couples (makes you sick really) we dodged the sellers and arrived at the closed gates of the metro. It is surprising that a major transport route could close at 9pm. With intuition, good looks and determination Camilla deciphered the map / bus routes etc. and led us to safety with only one bus change.
Day 1 - 18 May
Picking up where we left off the day before we dodged the pollen (now thick like snow on the ground around the bus station) to the Spanish steps for morning tea. It was at precisely this time that Steve chucked a wobbly. Unfortunately, it seems the previous evening and for that matter the last 2 months of carting around luggage, portable embassy and various food items like a turtle he was feeling overloaded. Europe is saturated with fine artworks, monuments and beautiful places it seems impossible to truly do it justice in only a visit. This said, the wobbly subsided at the same time that morning tea started to digest.
Full of vigour and nutella baguette we set off for the Pantheon. Considered one of Ancient Rome's greatest and most well kept architectural structures the dome roof is a sight to behold letting a thick column of light illuminate the ornate marble floors and walls. If Steve does not return from this trip it is probably because he persists in testing the water coming from every single spring fountain around Rome before entering any monuments.
A packed lunch was planned for the Italian Forum as it is often too easy to just walk straight through these great sights and not take time to sit and soak them up. Lunch was complimented by a very (very very) expensive can of coke which was put to good use watering the ancient concrete.
Wandering through the forum we were diligent in reading every word of the Lonely Planet explanations of the site. This act was made tricky by the constant dust storms whipping through the columns and marble arches. After an hour or so of taking notes we climbed the hill behind the forum and for the first time had a feeling for the vastness of Rome.
True to the Roman Holiday movie Camilla figured out a bee line to the Mouth of Truth. Outright lying prevailed as Camilla shouted infront of 100 impatient Japanese tourists 'I am Audrey Hepburn' and was grinning from ear to ear that she left with both hands attached.
Detouring slightly from the plan (there was none) we headed towards Plaza Nuovo housing the four rivers fountain of Michaelangelo. Gelato was the order of the day (Cappucino & Choc Mint, Chocolate & Strawberry) sitting on the edge of the ornate fountain watching artists clutch their easle as the wind rushed through the square. On one side, the most ornate church visited so far was almost completely forgotten by tourists in spite of multicoloured intricate mable carvings along all walls.
Dinner in the campsite could not have been more rewarding as we juggled ideas for the following day and reflected on how immensely satisfying Rome can be to visit.
Day 2 - 19 May
Having become increasingly use to waking with the sun to the sound of birds in the trees or rivers running nearby it was a little bit of a rude shock to wake to the sound of 15 vintage Ferraris revving in the nearby shopping centre carpark at 5.30 am. At least we were up and at-em early as we planned on visiting the Vatican City.
When they say queues in summer can be bad we were shocked to find nearly 1 km of people in each direction of the entrace to the Vatican Museum and Chapel. More surprising was that it would not open for another 1.5 hours!!! Even though it is known to be a great collection of art and architecture we came to the conclusion relatively quickly (on this very fine sunny day) to enjoy Rome more broadly.
Standing in the graceful curved courtyard of St Peters we decided to climb the Cupola (curved roof) instead. First stop was 150 stairs up to the inside of the mosiac dome. Reaching the internal balcony we could hear the humming and singing of a service below. Architecturally it is incredible to see such a cavernous space so richly decorated with mosiac tiles less than 1cm square.
Now excited by the sheer height we were gaining it was time to climb the additional 150 stairs on the inside of the outer shell of the dome. As the walls start to curl we realised we had lost each other. Steve determined to find Camilla rationalised that the best place to do this was not in the confines of the narrow passage but overlooking Rome. Camilla found Steve with both cameras pressed close to each eye, diligent search completed.
While cities such as Paris and Florence have distinctive skylines due to their confined historic centres and notable monuments, Rome is a litter of church domes, bridges and far off ruins. Being able to see the Vatican gardens and piazza was simply stunning on this sunny day, lacks a beautiful harbour such as Sydney however.
Roaming in Rome commenced with our downward spiral staircase which made us dizzy before entering St Peters. A choir was singing at one end while the throngs of tourists (who must have had an all you can eat buffet breakfast and more comfortable awakening than ours) had now arrived. St Peters is over the top, considering the resources required to establish such an impressive collection of statues, paintings and marble collected from various monuments over history shows the dedication of the Catholic Church.
Our adventure was entirely unplanned today so instead we wound up in a gutter eating local delicacies (pastries) admiring the boganvillia covering entire walls of the surrounding buildings. Onwards to the Castel Saint Angelo museum (free entry) was an interesting if not slightly sparse tour of a 1500 year old palace / fort etc. Right price...
Piazza del Popolo was fantastic with segways wizzy around and the sun glinting off the Egyptian obelisk in the centre. On our way to the park we noticed the Leonardo Da Vinci museum (a private collection of works and recreations from drawings) which we found fascinating. Hands on displays and models of some of his inventions, as well as clear explanations regarding the physics behind his ideas kept us well amused.
Now totally full of all things Roman, we lazed by a pond in the park and read a few chapters of Harry Potter. As the sun was setting we finished the day back at the campsite with homemade burgers, extra onions (which smelt like the first BBQ in 2 months) and wine. Rome is certainly a city to see once in a lifetime, maybe more if you have the stamina. Our next visit will not be far away where we will definetely stay in the thick of it (no metros or buses to sap our energy). Overall rating 10/10.
(Note new bikini)
