May 07

Leaving Florence at a respectable hour we bumped into a New York traveller with a classic case of 'I have an 8.37am train from the station (keep in mind she is standing at the campsite at 8.25am, almost 40 minutes from the station) and I just want to see the Gondolas and canals in Venice before I make an overnight train at 5pm thisafternoon from Milan to Barcelona'. It dawned on us from our observations that Americans are regularly either on a tour bus, travelling in packs of 8 or more, or more frequently LOST! We wish her the very best in achieving a comprehensive if not slightly optimistic tour of Europe.

Our pace was somewhat less rushed with no bus ticket purchased, stomachs wanting pastries and a desire to visit San Gimignano, a mere 1 hour bus ride south.

Making the Poggibonsi (???) connection we arrived at the glorious walled city of San Gimignano. Proportedly the most visited town in Tuscany, it has 7 remaining towers of the 72 which have been erected in its turbulent history of feuding families etc. Casciano and Tavernelle seem only to erect a few more towers and they may be in the running...

We hope to be known forever as responsible backpackers, and bear in mind this section of the blog will be edited before our children are old enough to read, we hitched a ride to the campsite. The lovely Austrian couple (middle aged although I am sure they believe they are younger) were very chatty when they offered a ride in their brand new Audi in the midday sun.

Eager to get the embassy flag flying we boogeyed on down to the local bus stop and were a little perplexed when the large converted Toyota Hiace came to a halt. Walking through the narrow winding and very picturesque streets we decided that the best vantage point of the town (and to check on the embassy) would be the 13th century 72 metre tower. We met a somewhat older Doogy Houser MD on the tower and helped him take a photo then remained a while to enjoy the vista across rolling hills, church spires, terrocotta roof tiles and vineyards tp the horizon.

A Day in Tuscany - 15 May

To commence our romantic Tuscan experience we washed a load of smelly socks and undies. By midday we dragged ourselves from the exciting chores and ventured back into town for lunch. Finally a decent sized lump of lasagne was served and eagerly devoured in a popular restaurant in the town square. Watching families play ball in the streets and everybody eating gelato from the 2006 Best Italian Gelato shop across the square made us ponder the idea of returning oneday with our own family. It was concluded that it would be easier to leave kids with the folks instead.

An afternoon swim was needed after taking the long walk (without hitchhiking) through the vineyards and olive groves to the embassy. The sun set amongst the oak trees we were camped underneath and as the day was coming to an end so too was our 1 litre tub of tiramasu gelato.

Camilla's second stroke of genius (following the bag at the station concept) was to catch the bus from Florence Centrale to the campsite. This idea came straight after her concerns that Steve had no idea where the camping actually was, and that it was likely to be overrun by shady characters if it exists at all.

One stop too far is usually a bad thing when lugging around one's home on your back. Like little turtles we stuck our heads out from within the map and realised the campsite stop is only 10 metres from the lookout where we were standing, Piazzale Michelangelo.

Florence - 10 May

With a famous skyline such as Florence we awoke keen to get into the thick of it. Walking down through the communal rose gardens, lined with ripe (and as we found out later very delicious) lemons we reached the Ponte Vecchio. This bridge is the only one to survive the bombings of WWII and has since housed jewellery shops. Happy to spend an entire days budget on some stand-in wedding rings we realised that we where a weeks budget short. Given our hunger for red meat it is a shame that the butcher shops that originally used the bridge where nowhere to be found.

We have found that the tourist information centres often give out 'One Day in...' guides for those that have jumped off a tourbus with limited time. It is a great starting point to get to know a city based on a walking tour of the highlights so for today our objective was to walk the 5 km circuit to orientate ourselves.

Into the first small church (it usually only takes a few moments to find a historic church worth looking at) and we were accosted by a couple of very friendly Americans asking for money. Ordinarily the reply would have been less than polite but given that we were in a house of God it seemed fitting to help them PAY (God isn't cheap on the tourist strip) to light up the famous fresco on the wall. It was a unique experience so we put the expenditure down to helping others to enjoy their experience.

Like the advertising junkies that we are a poster caught our eye (please note this is very tongue in cheek). Spiderman 3 has been released in English at the Cinema Teatro Odeon, with original 1930s decor. Walking on we came into the Piazza de la Repubbblica with the most beautiful carosel yet complete with pink feathers on the horses heads.

The highlight of the walk, and infact the centrepiece of the Florence skyline is the amazing Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. It is unmistakable with intricate marble carvings, coppertone tiled dome and 80 metre bell tower. Standing near this incredible piece of architectural art it is clear why it took 150 years to complete and now stands in almost perfect condition (slightly dirty on one side)

Lunch was as gourmet as you can possible expect of two impoverished backpackers, milk and bread. No we didn't forget to include anything in that sentence! Sitting directly under the dome watching the passing parade of African street sellers, young Contiki tourers and elderly locals added sufficient flavour to make lunch a treat.

Gelato was in order en route to the Piazza della Signoria housing a replica of the statue of David and the palazzo Vecchio with an outdoor display of original marble statues. It did not become apparent until now how many magnificent original sculptures there are in Europe. Regardless of the quantity we are still thoroughly enjoying them, in particular those displayed outside where they seem to best capture your imagination.

Dinner was shortly to follow from a boutique supermarket similar to that found in DJs, Sydney only noone spoke Australian except us. We refrained from buying everything and instead armed ourselves with foccacia, cous cous, rissotto salad, ricotta, olives and the lemon (Steve borrowed). Outside the Odeon we again watched as children played in the square and American teenagers spilled out of the cinema threatening to give away the ending.

Unfortunately, Spiderman 3 is not the classic we were expecting but entertaining nonetheless, particularly when the crowd giggled with amusement as Spiderman leaps in front of the flying American flag before saving the day.

Day 2 - May 11

Steve woke to find that his mattress has been slowly leaking air and was therefore lying on the ground. This will need to be addressed as we cannot afford the number of teas required to subdue this situation otherwise.

With one objective for the day in mind we headed off to the Galeria Degli Uffizi complete with packed lunch and open mind. At the point were we had been standing in the queue for over 1 hour and we decided it was time to make friends with the 80 year old America couple in front of us, and tease everyone by bringing out a fully packed lunch. 30 minutes later and we were finally throwing ourselves into the greatest collection of Renaissance art in the local vacinity.

Uffizi is well worth the visit, particular given that the entire ceiling of the sculpture gallery is intricately frescoed. A great view of the river, Ponte Vecchio and our campsite can be seen from the end windows.

Unplanned, and by a stroke of luck, Camilla came across the one painting she has been scouring the galleries in search of due to indepth study at school. Artemisia Gentileschi (1593) Judith beheading Holophernes (one of the goryest and most confronting husband slayings on canvas). To compliment her book 'How to kill your husband, and other useful household hints' there is no wonder Steve hasn't been sleeping well. All the same the gallery impressed us with a variety of works and sculptures and as a climax we viewed Botocelli's 'Venus'.

Gelato was enjoyed at a nearby church step followed by extensive internet time then onto the Plazza della Signoria where the replica of David is presented outdoors. Whether it was simple absentmindedness or the distraction of scupted naked males, Camilla stacked it down the stairs twisting her ankle. With all the encouragement in the world she was coaxed across the plazza (50 steps) for dinner.

Sunset was enjoyed on the banks of the river with the Ponte Vecchio silhouetted like many of the postcards we had admired. It was a long day and deserved a good nights rest.

Day 3 - 12 May

Breakfast - Internet - Called Mums for Mothers Day - Lunch - Internet - Dinner - Sleep. No joke, this was the extent of it as we needed to catch up with ourselves and do little else.

Day 4 - 13 May

With Camilla harping in Steve's ear 'I really would love to spend some time in Tuscany', and Steve politely reminding her (repeatedly) 'dear, Florence is in Tuscany' we made a brilliant decision. Our options were an 40 euro per person afternoon visit to a Villa to taste wine or a 80 euro day trip (per person) to San Gimignano we decided to go it alone. Armed with the worst possible map you have ever seen we selected two destinations (noted to have events on in the local rag) with travel coming to the grand total of 15 euros (for the two of us) we set off.

Destination 1 - Casciano val de Pesa

Small town with historic walls, great view over tuscany, nothing whatsoever open on a Sunday and 2 kms from the Wine Fair we were determined to visit. After a relatively short, hot walk along the country road and following a number of local directions we arrived at Villa de Cotti's neighbour. Politely greeted the madame of the house welcomed us into her home and said she would help with directions in just 5 minutes. Almost 30 minutes later and having heard her arguing with her last guest she finally tended to our simple question. 'Where is Villa de Cotti, they have a wine fair on today and we would like to attend - by the way thank you for letting us look through your villa it is beautiful'. Please keep in mind that this conversation commenced as we were walking down the drive away from the house, she attempted to pursued us to stay and taste her wine, make us food etc. etc. then reluctantly pointed over our shoulder at Villa de Cotti 50 metres away. Our gratitude for her assistance was brief. Villa de Cotti (against all advertised indications) was closed, the end.

Back into town we sat for a victory lunch at having found our destination despite a lack of wine trade fair. Great food at a small family run trattoria in this quite, sometimes overlooked, town of Casciano was heartely enjoyed. Our next destination was a 30 minute bus ride away, we were optimistic still.

Destination 2 - Tavernelle

In search of the local music festival (advertised in the same magazine) we held our suspicions. With glee we were met with music as we stepped off the bus and made our way dirrectly into the town square. Feeling that we were in the heart of Tuscany the romance swept over us and we got re-married. If further explanation is required let us be clear, we left our real wedding rings at home but felt (preverbally) naked without them. Camilla is now adorned with a plain silver band indicating her undying affection (crazy) for Steve. Steve has a multicoloured mood ring which has been purchased in the vain hope that Camilla will be able to decipher amorous from travel fatigue. Pizza from the local take away was enhanced by the friendly shopkeep. After our meal we sat to chew through our books listening to the local vibes in the Piazza as the sun was setting.

Engrossed in our books we caught the bus by the hair of our chinny chin chin as Camilla glance (only for a fraction of a second) across the park to see the last bus of the night returning to Florence. LUCKY!

Leaving the beautiful coastline of the Cinque Terre behind we boarded the train to Pisa catching glimpses of the mediterranean all the way. Off in the distance it is possible to see the mountains where marble is mined and delivered in huge blocks numbered with red spray paint. We would only realise how significant it was to see the marble in this raw form once we set eyes on the finished product.

Pisa - 9 May (stopover before heading on to Florence)

Without an ongoing ticket we had not yet decided whether to remain in Pisa overnight. Although we had heard from many who have travelled their before that it lacks points of interest, on the contrary we found the walk through the markets and piazza from the station to be as good as any other city so far. Camilla received her first 'Bella' from the ladies in the fruit stalls which felt special as they delivered it with a smile.

Down a somewhat dingy street we caught our first glimps over a graffiti covered wall of the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa gleaming in contrast to the brilliant blue sky and green grass. We entered the ritual conversation all tourists undertake at Pisa; 'No you push it over, no, I want to hold it up, no you first, oh alright but a feel like a dork...'. With gusto we joined the other 1000 tourists holding their arms in the air taking directions from accompanying photographers and produced the desired result.

A packed lunch was enjoyed on the grass in the shadow of the Dome watching crowds of school children. Our tickets allowed us access into the brilliant cathedral and dome. Inside the cathedral we entered a deep discussion about the variations this particular one has with the other 8 - 10 major cathedrals we have seen so far. With sunlight beaming through the windows and deeply moving religious effigies we realised that each visit is entirely different even though the themes are the same. Steve exclaimed rather abruptly 'Camilla, I am sure we have seen this one before...', nevertheless it was exciting to be here.

By coincidence our visit to the Dome was in time for a demonstration of the acoustics by a trained singer. Luckily we had already climbed the narrow staircase to the higher level where for nearly a minute each time the vast space was filled with resonating tones from the singer below. As the sound trailed off it was impossible to relate what we heard to a human voice. Caught up with the romance and beauty of the place it was difficult to pull ourselves away from the square.

We took a final moment to reflect on the beauty of the 900 year old structures, what it would sound like if the tower actually fell, and how many times a day the 'hold the tower up' photo is taken' we entered the nearest souvenir shop (totally out of character). A couple of nice postcards where first purchased and as we were leaving the store THEY WERE FOUND. On our list of must reads Camilla has at the very top the number 6 Harry Potter: The Half Blood Prince, Steve has been wishing to find Robert Louis Stevenson's classic, Treasure Island. THEY WERE SITTING NEXT TO EACH OTHER (in English)! Leaving them quietly on the shelf for the next customer... what are you talking about, screw the additional weight ... SOLD.

Walking back to the train station where we had paid to leave our large backpacks (stroke of genius from Camilla) we decided there would be little else gained from staying the night in Pisa. Outside of a not so swanky hotel was a near perfect original condition Bentley from what must have been the early 1600s. Well maybe not that old but we are talking first rate open wheeler, deep british green with leather straps holding in the engine (not that it is likely to jump out of the bonnet).

New books in hand we where hoping for an 8 hour train trip or some catastrophic delay, unfortunately, everything went to plan so we arrived in Florence within 1.5 hours.

Our greatest delight on this trip so far has been the opportunity to be immaginative regarding our trip itinarary and work together to figure out how to get to the next destination. Only in the last few days in Menton had we even broached the topic of where to go next, the only decision made was that it was time for Italy.

At 5.30am we awoke to an alarm clock drowned out by the pitter pattering of rain on the embassy roof. If you have ever seen those tricks where the magician is in the box full of water and has to get untangled from the chains, it must look similar to a bystander to see us in wet weather mode ejecting ourselves from the tent.

In a ploom of feathers we managed to pack and make our way down the slippery 317 steps to the station in time. On our arrival to the platform we were greeted by our good friend sunshine. If nothing else, at least our morning wet weather preparation was good practice should it have been pouring.

Our train trip was a mixed bag of decisions, advice and some reluctance to fully commit to any real destination. At our time of departure we had on our person a total of one train ticket valid for the grand journey of 10 minutes across the Italian border. We were advised that purchasing tickets for regional trains on the other side is significantly more economical and thankfully that was the case.

10 minutes later, a few select words in English, French and the only Italian we know (Bounjourno) it was decided that we would go to Monterosso. On further examination of the train time table, a big smile at the surly ticket agent and we were to be seated for almost 5 hours without any food. Our train was boarding in 5 minutes so we took the risk and got on without adequate supplies. At least we had a destination.

Monterosso - 6 May

If we thought we liked pizza before we left for Italy, it was now a matter of life or death. You know you are in Italy when you can walk straight off the train into a pizzaria on the platform. Seated on the corner of the balcony overlooking a glorious sunny day on the Mediterranean we devoured two whole, thick based pizza with gusto. Camilla exclaimed in no uncertain terms that she will 'Take Italy one Margherita at a time'.

The first rude shock came from the expressionless hotelier at Monterosso (fancy pants hotel something-or-other) that the only camping to be found was at the previous station. Out came the big smiles and we asked for the best price possible on their smallest room. Realising that our entire daily budget would not come close we strode off galantly in search of Levanto leaving behind the mid afternoon sun and Monterosso for exploration the next day.

Levanto - Same day but full of Pizza

Outside of the train station was an easy to understand map that indicated Levanto was blessed with 5 campsites within walking distance. Only trouble was we could not figure out which way was up (truthfully it was time for a siesta after 5 hours on the train) so we remained staring at the map until help arrived.

Help was in the form of 4 decisive and well organised fellow backpackers in search of camping also. The conversation was struck between Camilla, Steve and Rob (NZ) travelling with Sarah (NZ), Kelly (NZ) and Gaelle (Fr) who work in the UK and enjoy short stints to exotic locations in continental Europe.

Before setting up the embassies we enjoyed our first (strong) Italien espresso then floated up to a well selected shared site.

Our new found companions headed off for the evening to walk between Levanto and Monterosso while we got lost for a while in the cheese and pasta section of the supermarket. After dinner we also went for a short hike (5 minutes) to watch the sun set behind a curtain of cloud. What more do you need to get excited about walking this famous coastline.

THE HIKE - Monterosso to Riomaggiore (The Cinque Terre) - 7 May

To commence the famous 12 km hike along the Cinque Terre coast through UNESCO heritage park we caught a train back to Monterosso. A quick loving glance at our first Italian pizzaria as we walked down to the beach to skim a few stones. While Rob, Sarah, Kelly and Gaelle went off to find some breakfast we warmed ourselves on the beach.

Rounding the first cape we could see south along the jutting penisulars where three of the five villages were visible. In a straight line to Riomaggiore it didn't look like much of a hike, together with the change in altitude from Monterosso (6m above sea level) to Lanvazza (4m above sea level) it should be a piece of cake. As we started setting the pace through lemon groves and around valleys Camilla read out the change in altitude for the first leg (6m to 140m+). Unfortunately the fresh ripe lemons were just out of reach as we struggled up the slippery path, thankfully a local farmer was selling Lemoncello which Rob gratefully paid top dollar for.

Puffing, the six of us came to Lanvanzza followed shortly by Rob and Sarah plunging into the ocean. By the looks on their faces it seemed a little fresh.

We ate up the kilometres and arrived hungry at Corniglia, set back high up from the sea overlooking the coast. Only moments earlier Steve exclaimed that it would be funny if they didn't sell any pizza. To our surprise it was infact difficult to find a cheap good feed of the national dish so we landed ourselves in a small cafe / bar for panini. A frozen chocolate yoghurt chaser was the order of the day for us, covered in fresh mint.

The path opened out a little as we passed alongside the railway overlooking a long pebble beach. Again we could hear the sound of pebbles and air popping below. At the end of the bay our feet were hurting and it seemed Rob and Sarah were due for another cool off. Perched high on the cliff the remaining four put our feet up and downed a few cookies while they swam below in the crystal clear water.

Thankfully the final stretch was a short 20 minutes along a well worn path. Signs informed us that it was possible to wear stilletos on this section, however they are forbidden on the rest of the track. Via Amore is the infamous stretch of path covered in graffiti declaring undying love between two romantics. The tradition started around 50 years ago and has since encouraged various fresco modern art.

Riomaggiore, like all of the towns along the Cinque Terre is postcard picture perfect with all the traditional cliches. Little fishing boats lined up neatly, trattoria diners run by local families, cats perched on flower pot lined window cills and cool narrow alleyways sheltered from the sun.

In the late afternoon sun we seperated from the group who opted for the lavish (slightly above a 70 euro a day budget) boatride back to Levanto). The train ride gave teasing glimpses of the boat and bays as we ducked in and out of more than 20 tunnels along the coast.

Pre-dinner drinks was a great opportunity to chat to the guys without puffing and panting between sentences. A few bottles of wine, cheese and crispbread later and it was time to find our friendly local trattoria. Well fed by the end our rest that evening was well deserved.

The Cinque Terre is a fabulous introduction to Italian coastal living, enhanced exponentially by sharing the experience with 4 like minded and friendly travellers. We look forward to catching up with them in the UK if possible and will trade a few hundred photos then.

Driving the Cote d'Azur - 2 May

Driving from Cannes to Menton (on the Italian border) can be completed in two or three different ways. Autobarn - 30 minutes, Freeway - 1 hour, every single little cove, bay, marina, avenue and lookout - 4.5 hours +. Our choice should by now be obviouse to all of you.

Arriving in Menton we had brought with us a pair of numb bums, fresh stocks of tea, tomatos and pasta, around 200 extra photos and glorious recollections of the amazing coastline. Our days to come were solely dedicated to exploring the coast, in particular the seaside principality of Monaco, Nice and our local refuge, Menton.

To add to our excitement, Camilla had selected a campsite high on the hill overlooking Menton and the mediterranean.

Day 1 - Monaco - 3 May

There are a few good reasons to either visit or live in Monaco. The benefits of a tax haven, a casino which is known to lose, a castle and real live prince, and a grand prix circuit that closes down the entire country each year.

Our exploration of this enormous country (less than two square kilometres) began at the casino.

'WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU ARE NOT OPEN AT 10am IN THE MORNING'. Aghast at how they could make any money at all we stormed off around the perfectly manicured gardens complete with scaffolding, holes and workmen setting up for grand prix to the tourist office. 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN I CANT DRIVE FAST AROUND THE RACETRACK!' Aghast we took their advice and our issues to the palace.

Glamourous living is one thing, then there is being the ruling family of Monaco. Like being the boss of a roast chicken shop there are only 20,000 citizens to keep happy, heaps of Casino income (who knows how) and tourist dollars everywhere. The castle holds a commanding view in all directions over the little empire below. It seemed fitting from this position that we gorge on delicious pastries for a while.

Changing of the guards was our first induction into the formalities of being in a principality. With the throngs of other tourists we clustered around the entrance to the palace to see a parade of fluffy headed muskiteers (alright guardspersons). A marching band and a couple of dozen salutes later and it was time for us to make a bee line to the visitors entrance.

Our visit to the palace grand apartments was guided by an english audiotour which proved both interesting and comical. At one point it was clear that the author of the dialogue was trying to impress the 'Family' with comments such as 'resplendant, divine, exquisite...' and most memorably a single request; 'don't be distracted by the splendour of the throne room and forget to press the green button'. Disappointed to not have seen the royal toilet around the corner we were only marginally distracted by the Palace Throne and thankfully remembered to press the green button just in time for more haughty taughty commentary.

Lunch in a principality is a difficult choice but at last we decided to turn down the personal invitation of the Prince and order a couple of mouthwatering woodfired pizzas. On our way back to the car we stopped off at the post office to get a post card sent home then out onto the promatory for a closer look at the Museo Oceanigraphique. Feeling that the palace was sufficient entertainment for today we did not go into the museum, instead we grasped the handrails tight in the gale forced winds to appreciate this great building.

Time to find out how Monaco looks from the track. The most exciting part about our one hot lap of the grand prix circuit was Steve making formula one car noise as he approached and departed every turn. We don't need to go into detail about the pitch he could reach at the end of the straight so let us just say it was hilarious.

Our betting budget set (AUD$20 - hey big spenders) we strode confidently through the sea of Bentleys, Ferraris, Jaguars and Rolls Royce to stand bewildered at the door. Our entire betting budget would be blown if we paid the 20 euro entry fee (probably in place to ensure they don't go broke again). The casino is a beautiful building so we admired the architecture, watched a few hundred tourists eagerly fork out their daily betting budgets from a distance.

Driving back through the stunning towns along the coast we huddled under the ramparts at Menton for a warm brew. As the rain teased with splatters of gusto we stood firm and felt all the better for it.

Day 2 - Nice - 4 May

The capital city of the Maritime Coast in the south of France is around 1 hours winding drive past road works and buses from Menton. We started late (which basically means we are even more enthusiastic about life if that is possible) only to find out that having a car is a real burden. Unfortunately, the 'beast' needs more than just apple cores and grass to keep it going. As we rounded the Port East into Nice the red petrol light had been on for a good 10 kms.

Finally we snaked our way into a parking station, ran for the toilets (30 centimes), put on our wet weather gear and strode off persistant in our quest to see Nice. 5 minutes later and the wet weather gear came off, our waiter came over to take our order and we sat watching the rain over the rims of our teacups. Adventurous we may be but silly we are not.

Rewarding our diligence the sun came out and lit up the wet pavement, market umbrellas and rocks on the beach. Nice is gorgeous but not our first choice for lying on the beach sunbaking as it is made up of some of Europe's finest skimming rocks. As the waves break they drag pebbles down the bank rattling, and air pops below the surface which sounds like clinking of chains. Very peaceful, add some dolphin sounds and a few waterfalls and you have a relaxation cd to market.

Our walking tour of Nice was more of an amble through the historic streets and stretched as far as the headland overlooking the busy East Port. It is great seeing the maritime activity such as Nice where the large passenger ferries to Corsica depart.

On our way back across the coast to Menton we stopped overlooking a bay for gourmet cafe Hall style sandwiches (Blue Cheese, Avocado and Salami). Tucked neatly inside the bay where two cruiseships actively ferrying passengers to the shore. The smaller of the two was a glamourous yesteryear model while the Galaxy 2 liner (almost as big as Queen Mary) sat proud.

A short 2km detour (totally on purpose) took us into Italy and back again.

Goodbyes are always difficult, first Loustic now the Beast. It was not clear how affectionate we had become towards Toyotas little baby until we were trudging (and puffing) up the 317 stairs to our campsite on the hill.

Day 3 - Menton - 5 May

It has become apparent that there are luxury items we take for granted in Australia. The following list has been composed for your review:

[/list]LUXURY ITEMS WE CRAVE
[*]STEAK (big red juicy slabs of medium well bbq meat)
[*]Peanut Butter - AUD$10 per 400grm jar seems a little steep
[*]Pillows, queen sized bed
[*]English written and spoken language
[*]Wardrobe consisting of more than 4 items
[*]Washing machine, dryer and iron
[*]Free internet
[*]Hair dryer / straightener (Steve is very upset)
[*]Butter, sweet delectable butter
[*]Shower and taps that don't need to be pushed every 2 seconds
[*]Eating at a table with chairs

Today was a thong day. Please note there are only 4 thongs between us and they only go on our feet. We are in need of rest and relaxation so the reference above has become law within the team to ensure the toes do not permanent mold to the shape of our boots.

On Thong Day we spent a large proportion of time on lunch, sitting drinking tea, internet and general louping around. Thankfully the luxury items list was addressed. We ate in a seat twice, wow, consumed a whole stick of butter between us and cooked up bangers (that is as close to steak as we can justify) and mash.

Since we had time up our sleeves we wrote up the following tally for our own reference throughout the trip but thought you might enjoy a giggle. At the end you may realise that independant travel (the only way to go) is not all roses.

TALLY OF BITS AND PIECES (as of 12 May)

[*]CUPS OF TEA - 110 cups (55 boil and mash) in 30 days
[*]ACCOMMODATION - 27 Nights Camping, 19 Hotel, 7 Friends
[*]TRANSPORT (Main Legs) - 3 Planes, 13 Trains, 8 Buses, 5 Metro Systems, 1 donkey, 7 days car (France 450km, Italy 2km), 1 small tourist train, Hiked 84 kms and counting (does not include approximately 10km/p day sightseeing), Kayak 6km
[*]MEALS (Self Catered) - 33 cooked and numerous cold
[*]BAGUETTES - greater than 100
[*]ESCARGOT - 2 meals
[*]NAUGHTY PASTRY TREATS - we will never tell
[*]ICE CREAM - 8 times (just hit Italy so keep an eye on this one)
[*]MACDONALDS - 1 snack (big mac), 2x icecream, 3 toilet breaks
[*]DOG POO - 1 known step in (Steve)
[*]INJURIES - Steve: finger cut from 'knife of death', foot cut from climbing rocks barefoot in Verdon Gorge, Hayfever every second day - Camilla: sore foot/almost blister from hiking 28km in one day, rolled ankle down stairs in Florence
[*]LOADS OF WASHING - 1 (not a typo)
[*]WARDROBE MALFUNCTIONS - Steve, whole cut in jumper and since discarded, set fire to sleeve of softshell; Camilla, cut out of wet weather jacket due to zipper catching
[*]LONELY PLANET - Steve used it as a mallet to put in tent pegs, hence large hole in the back cover (Camilla suitably not impressed)
[*]LEFT BEHIND - shampoo in Cannes, floss in Marseille, compass in Moustiers
[*]MONEY FOUND - 1.50 euros (score)

As you can see we had plenty of time to navel gaze. Menton is a fabulous base for exploring the Cote d'Azur, heaps less crowded than the bigger neighbours and interesting in its own right. Although we opted for the car on both our excursions it would be easy (if not easier) to use the regular bus or train service to any of the famous destinations. To top off a great few days worth of holiday we had the most commanding view from the embassy, a great luxury that could not be topped.