Jul 2007

Lucerne to Bern - 13 July

With a little more confusion over our wanting to extend the car rental we rescheduled our visit to Bern and decided today was the day. We were pleased to spend some time in the Swiss capital as it is gorgeous, fortunately it does not feel like a capital city. Our visit included giggling at the fountain depicting a giant devouring young children like Swiss chocolates, admiring the covered walkways and beautifully kept old town set in the bend of the emerald coloured river.

We headed to the opposite bank to say hello to the bears and dodged the buldosers and workman on our way back to the fresh food market. How can you resist freshly made ravioli, really. Our priority for the afternoon was to make our way from this beautiful capital to the heart of the Swiss alps in Berner Oberland. As if there isn't enough distraction for a driver in Europe, when we approached Interlarken and caught a glimps of the snow capped mountains in the background a Red Bull stunt plane competing in the Air Challenge raced just over our head. After a short stop by the glacial torrents we found our campsite in Grindelwald with an unobstructed view of the North Face on the great Eiger Mountain. This looming 2 km high wall of rock and ice became the perfect backdrop for our breakfasts and dinners for the following few days, AWESOME!

Day 1 - Jungfraujoch - 14 July

As impoversihed backpackers and determined to beat the tour buses to the highest railway station in Europe we opted for the early bird special ticket to Jungfraujoch. Luckily our campsite was situated only 5 minutes walk through the farmland to the funicular railway station so we enjoyed our sleep in till 5.30am. On the train we began talking with a lovely German couple named Veronika and Matthew who are currently living in Interlarken. Our first stop was to change trains before entering the long tunnel through the mountain. The first viewpoint was a window situated half way up the North Face, so we checked the tent was still there and it was.

When we reached the top at Jungfraujoch and scrambled up the snow to the second view point we were blown away by the near endless view of the Swiss Alps and Europes longest glacier, the Grosser Aletschgletscher at near 25 kms long. Swapping cameras back and forth between the two couples was a welcome relief from the far more difficult task of taking shots at arms length.

We ventured deep into the glacial man made ice cave to admire the ice carvings, explore the tunnels and enjoy sliding on our boots as if ice skating. The greater challenge was to come as we headed outdoors for the hour long hike across the upper glacier to the mountain hut around the corner. Puffing and panting in the thin air we were continually commenting to one another on the spectacular vistas. The pair of hiking poles Steve has been diligent in carrying since Austria came in very handy on the slippery snow.

We were determined that at reaching our highest altitude ever we would brew our own cuppa to celebrate. Unknowingly we were relying on the electric starter which at this height was rendered useless (for some reason?). Unperturbed Steve asked everyone who passed for a light and was pleased to find that few serious alpine hikers smoke. As for the tea cravings, we were saved by Matthew who came to the rescue by purchasing a lighter as a souvenir gift. The tea was possibly our best yet as we sat on top of Europe watching a small avalanche in the distance, a plane make repeated practice landings on the ice and hearing a large block of ice crack off the cliffs above us (not too close thankfully).

On our way through the mountain back down the train stopped for 20 minutes without explanation. Almost the moment it stopped Steve thought it appropriate to make jokes about spending the night then almost immediately following he got the noddies and was quiet. Veronika and Matthew suggested walking down to Alpiglen traversing the bottom of the North Face. What a wonderful walk to end the day (1.5 hours) with great company. By 6 pm that evening we could barely keep our eyes open so it was an early night for little alpinists.

Day 2 - Into the Mountains Again (Literally) - 15 July

Determined to make today relaxing and interesting after the excitement and exertion on Jungfraujoch we planned only 3 activities. First on the list was Gletshcerschlucht Gorge. The walk was approximately 1 km each way along a narrow suspended walkway over the raging glacial river below. We savoured the chilling wind that rushed through the gorge before heading out into the contrasting still and hot morning.

Back in the car we drove the short but scenic route to the adjacent valley of Lauterburnnen. The valley is home to one of the worlds only accessible glacial waterfalls inside a mountain. Trummelbachfall is a series of 10 enormous cascades falling over 150 metres with viewing platforms and tunnels carved into the rock. Our shot below does not include any water however the short glimpses of light beams caught the rising vapour which hung in the air. Seeing and hearing the awesome power of water first hand helps us understand how the surrounding valleys and mountains have been shaped over time. At any given second there is a mere 20,000 litres of water pouring over the edge carrying almost 20,000 tonnes of rock granules per year into the lakes below. The maths multiplies over millions of years to be a significant force in our world.

After a hot lunch in the moist spongy forest glen we raced down to Interlarken for the finals of the Red Bull Air Challenge. Battling the crowds initially to find a peephole through the fence was given up in favour of a quiet spot in a paddock high on a hill overlooking the whole of Interlarken, the airport where the race was being held and across the lake. While it is easy to admire the skill and courage of the pilots as they dodge and weave through air filled obstacles only metres from the ground we are still happy with our day jobs thank you very much.

On arriving in Lucerne we made a bee line via the supermarket for lunch by the lake. A little bit of housekeeping / admin at the post office was necessary before we visited the beautiful and tragic dying lion war memorial carved out of the cliff.

On our way back into town Steve made the critical decision to ensure Camilla is fully prepared for all that life could throw at her by selecting the ultimate Swiss army knife. We walked around the remaining fortifications high on the hill then went on to admire the wooden bridges with paintings in the eves, including the famous rebuilt 16th century bridge that burnt down. Impressed with the complex river management system still in use we finished the day with a multicultural dinner. We call it this because the vegetables were from Switzerland, goulash from Czech Republic, German dumplings, cooker purchased in France and gas from Austria.

Day 1 - Lucerne 12 July

Our hope for thismorning was to be able to see Mount Pilatus clear of clouds in brilliant sunshine, and we weren't dissapointed. One of the great benefits of campgrounds is that they often have good discounts on local attractions. Today we spoilt ourselves with the 'Golden Roundtrip' ticket.

The adventure began with an hour and a half ride on a 1902 steam paddleboat from our campsite across the lake to the base of Pilatus. In perfect condition the entire engine bay was open to inspect with the enormous steel piston rods and shafts churning silently. Communication with the captain on the bridge was also in the days of old with the horn and lever. The highlight was still to come with a 40 minute ride on the worlds steepest cogwheel railway (48 degrees) which took us to almost 3000 metres.

It was very cold and windy conditions yet we enjoyed crystal clear views of the surrounding mountains, the city of Lucerne and lake below. Finding a suitable precipice following our exploration of the summit we fell into reading LOTR and watching the clouds soar up the mountain and over our heads. We returned to the thicker air below via 2 very long cable cars and a trolley bus back into town. Pilatus is highly recommended and the railway is an unforgettable fantastic feat of engineering (seen in the background).

Our evening entertainment had been planned in advance, well in advance. It was made clear by Camilla prior to our departure from Sydney that wherever we are in the world, we WILL find an English cinema for the premiere of Harry Potter V, Order of the Pheonix. The movie was worth the wait and we are now even moreso looking forward to the release of the 7th and final book.

To top off a magical day we ate dinner with the swans down by the river next to the famous bridges. Camilla didn't make friends with the swans so easily today (probably as she would not share dinner), as they made obvious with their repeated hissing until they got bored and drifted downstream. Lucerne is a must see on any visit to Switzerland as we have thoroughly enjoyed every aspect of this gorgeous little town.

Zurich to Basel - 8 July

We awoke today excited at the afternoon rendezvous with our good friends Andre and Therese in Basel. Our meeting point was at 4:30pm underneath the 15 metre tall mechanical 'hammering man', you can't miss it they said and that was certaily the case. We arrived in town a mere 5 1/2 hours early and decided to take in the sights. After a quick pitstop for a nature break Steve found a handbag left in the cubicle. Our first introduction to Basel was a walking tour between the closed police station at the railstation before making our way across town to the weekend depot. On our tour we took in the sights such as the frescoed town hall, river and interesting transit boats, numerous clocks and a small food market before retiring from the rain to MacDonalds (our 4th visit in as many months, tut tut but oh soo good). Luckily the staff did not mind two soaked travellers setting up camp to read some LOTR and add our own assortment of tomato and cucumber to there tried and proven recipes.

Standing underneath the hammering man all of our travel weary worries and tension melted at the sight of our friends smiling faces. How funny to travel for so many months in unfamiliar places before finally seeing someone from home (even though they live here). Dinner was a fabulous affair cooked with real sized pots and pans, topped off with great conversations, endless catch-up regarding recent travel adventures from all of us and the chance to meet Therese's very friendly younger brother Robin.

Over the coming days our mornings started with a wonderful assortment of Swiss cold meats, Swedish caviar, local cheeses and all things good. On our first day we were shown Andre's playground (the ruined castle on the hill behind his parents house), enjoyed a picnic in a paddock during some wonderful sunshine and a driving tour through the Alsace in France, then Switzerland, France etc. about 6 times. On one of the entries we finally had our passports checked. Steve asked for an entry stamp and was denied on the grounds of they didn't have one! After dinner we sat up late discussing the light topics of war and politics in Switzerland and the world.

The following day Andre and Therese needed to drive to Zurich to secure their new apartment lease, which was as good a reason as any for us to revisit this great city. As it was raining we took a tour across the lake on the car ferry and drove high up into the hills for a spectacular view. Junghauskeller was the restaurant of choice, the best Swiss sausage house in Zurich (possibly the world), where we showed our appreciation and gratitude to both of them for their hospitality. Given that we don't understand Swiss German at the best of times, let alone in a crowded restaurant, Andre requested unnoticed a souvenir Junghauskeller beer mug for Steve. Thankyou Andre, it will be well used over the years.

Walking down the famous shopping street, nibbling on champagne chocolate truffles, without hordes of people it is easy to see why so many people love this slick professional and elegant city on the lake. Having returned to Basel in the afternoon we toured Andre's family vineyard to taste the very young, sour and unripe grapes before settling in for our final dinner together.

We really do hope to see both of them either in Zurich or Sydney before too long and will think of them whenever trimming a sail.

Leichtenstein - Its small, really really small!

We would have done as all other tourists do in Leichtenstein and simply walked the small pedestrian shopping district however a number of obsticles made it very slow going. How lucky we were to find that this tiny little itsy bitsy country is a key stage in the Silveretta Classic car rally. The obsticles mentioned earlier were the procession of vintage and veteran sports coupes including Austin Healey, Alfa Romeo, Aston Martin, Bentley, Bugatti, Buick, Bristol AC Cobra, Bug (VW), Corvette, Fiat, Jaguar, Lotus, MG A & Bs, Mercedes, Porsche, Triumph, and a Volvo. After a few photos (A FEW!) we feel that our shopping trip in Leichtenstien was well out of our budget.

We needed a tea to wash away the lead petrol fumes so we drove off in the opposite direction to the stream of classic cars still coming into town and found a waterfall on the side of a mountain overlooking the valley. Revived it was time to drive along a winding mountain pass into Switzerland making our way towards Zurich. After endurring our first traffic jam in months we set up camp at the very busy Lake Zurich campsite looking back at the city from the western shores. It was a long, hot and tiring day having driven more than 340 km in 4 countries so we had an early dinner and went to bed early at 10pm. Just as our heads hit the pillow we were startled by the sound of a massive explosion!

Ordinarily we would have been scared however the simultaneous eruption of dodgy 80's music from the speakers surrounding Zurich lake it could mean only one thing, fireworks. Our welcome to Switzerland party had obviously begun without us! Within seconds we were scurrying through the campsite pulling on cloths and cameras for a magical fireworks display across the lake.

Zurich - 7 July

Our day in Zurich started on the bus before walking thruogh the deserted streets, a quick stop in a well stocked model railway shop then settled by the lake to watch the swans. All around us and throughout the streets were festival stalls, open air bars and restaurants, fun park rides etc. It wasn't until then did we realise that we had arrived in Zurich in the midst of one of Switzerlands largest tri-annual festivals.

We mixed up our time between stopping at the shows, smelling all the wonderful food stalls, window shopping in the classy shops and taking in the beautiful old city streets before lunch by the lake. Some of the highlights included breakdancing, swiss military helicopter and stunt plane shows, high diving, dragon boat races under the bridges of the river, feeding the swans, a bit of LOTRs under a willow tree, and a final spectacular fireworks display from the comfort of the campsite private park.

On our final morning in Prague we were greeted with a sunshower which drove us underground to the metro. After a well executed multitude of line changes we arrived with time to spare. On board to Germany the ticket conductor gave us a frown before explaining that this carriage was going to Munich, not Nuremburg! We finished comparing travel notes with the friendly Canadians in our compartment before loading up and navigating to the very packed front three carriages.

Nuremburg - 2 July

We have found that when the tourist information bureau needs to look up where the closest camp site is, it usually means it is out of the way. Even though it turned out the indicated tram line was not ideal, the necessary route took us through Hitlers military procession grounds. The light rain and a menacing sky excentuated this unfriendly location. Thankfully our first German campsite owner was delightful.

After pitching tent between showers and a quick bite to eat in the common room we headed back into town via the much closer train station to explore. Camilla created a comprehensive tourist walk using the town map taking us past numerous churches, fountains and the Australian Icecream Shop. Understaning that much of Nuremburg was destroyed in WWII it is lucky that some of the historic buildings remain intact, whilst much of the rebuilt areas remind us of a cross between Brisbane and Chatswood.

After finishing a toast to another new country to visit we walked the shiny cobblestone streets alongside the city fortifications in a beautiful sunshower. Ducking outside the safety of the medieval city wall we were rewarded with a view of a thick vivid rainbow crowning the Opera House.

Satishfied with our afternoon in Nuremburg we organised a car for the following day, headed back to camp for a basic dinner, received a brief lesson on Nazi politics from a Swedish history teacher and slept as only exhausted travellers can.

Romantishe Strasse (Romantic Road) through Bavaria - Day One - 3 July

It was a nice surprise to find that we received a free upgrade to a four door VW Golf even thought our booking specifics were somewhat lost in translation. Unfortunately, after packing our gear into the car (still amazed that it all fits in two backpacks) we were hurried off the train station parking before we could get our bearings. With maps in hand the result was an unplanned circular, then spiral, then multiple u-turn tour of Nuremburg.

We finally found the No. 6 to Shillingsfurst and breathed a sigh of relief. We attempted to determine where the 'schloss' (castle) was located from a map on the tourist billboard. It just so happened that we were standing in the castle carpark! After a pitstop at the backery and supermarket for supplies Camilla offered to drive whilst attempting to dismantle the steering wheel and relocate on the right. After some minor confusion we were steadily underway, what an experience to drive on the WRONG side of the road for the first time. After a short time Camilla drove us into a field (deliberately) where we stopped for tea just before the heavens opened.

Feuchtwagen was our next stop and already we were feeling more romantic! Driving past the sentry tower at the top of the hill, and possible through the pedestrian only parts of town by accident, we exited under the little aches and onto Dinkelsbuhl. Walking around the streets of this interesting little town we enjoyed climbing onto the ramparts where we passed a number of the 16 guards towers. The houses in Dinkelsbuhl have fantastic manicured gardens. It was raining at the time which made the entire town shine, as well as keep away those pesky tourists that get in our way (assuming we are not pesky also).

Drying off in the car we made our way through the Ries Valley, created 15 million years ago by a 1km wide meteorite which left a 25km wide crater. Thankfully we were late for that fireworks display. In the centre of the crater is the impressive walled village of Nordlingen, one of the few towns in Europe where visitors can view the town from the fully intact rampart walls. Again Camilla effectively nagivated the visitors walking tour (except for a few of what she calls 'Necessary Detours').

As the evening drew on it was time to find a camp site which was not as easy as we first thought. Zipping through the delightful Harburg, crossing the river 3 times, asking 2 guest houses for directions, getting lost in someones backyard (literally), then finally turned away by the campsite owner as the patch of grass adjacent to the river was deemed 'too wet', continued to Donaeworth, shot through the same intersection from all possible directions, caught on a small section of the Autobahn, we finally found ourselves in a nice little wheat field where we could see through the campsite hedge to the soft grass patch awaiting us. Total distance for the day including all detours = 235km.

Dachau Detour - Day 2 - 4 July

Today we planned our departure from the Romantic Road to to Dachau, near Munich. We spent the whole day at Gedenkstatte Concentration camp with a comprehensive audioguides to help with our concerted attempt to learn of the attrocities which occurred on these grounds. There is little we can write here to fully communicate how chilled to the bone with grief and horror we felt at how human beings can behave. Our visit will be remembered always not just for the ferocious winds and dark clouds that accompanied us through the bleek compound, but mostly for the knowledge and saddness we take with us through life.

Back on the Romantishe Strasse - Day 3 - 5 July

Having found the campsite more easily than the night before, we awoke beside Annasee lake to the sound of yacht mast ropes clicking and slapping. A short jaunt into the forest for tea and strudel for breakfast gave us full bellies until lunch which was also a formal roadside affair admiring King Ludwig II's masterpiece.

Neushwanstein castle tour opened our eyes to the sheer decadence possible when you are an opera obsessed, swan loving mad king without a budget. The short stroll up to Mariebruck bride afforded one of the greatest views of Bavaria, only just short of our splendid windy campsite on the lake at Brunnen. To conclude our short yet enriching journey through Germany we had some local beverages and read LOTR (Lord of the Rings) until late into the evening.

The Romance is Over - Day 4 - 6 July

For 4 days in a row now we have been able to pack up camp only moments before the rain came and thismorning was no exception. First stop for the morning was the pretty town of Fussen with matchstick fountains where 100kg bolders rotate sickeningly metres above our heads then to backery hop down to the river. Leaving town we stopped at the Lech falls where we saw more water flow per second than anywhere else so far. After a small navigation glitch (gap in corresponding maps) we simply decided to head south via Fern Pass and 'turn right' in Austria. It sounded simple enough, and once on the correct road to Leihctenstien we settled into the rhythm of freeway driving.

Travelling through numerous tunnels in the hills it was in a moment where to Steves absolute horror he gasped and we both witnessed the vehicle behind doing almost twice the legal speed limit (80km/h) in a tunnel with oncoming traffic (single lanes). Only metres from our car the driver locked up the brakes, fishtailed violently across both lanes in the tunnel before flipping onto its roof and narrowly missing our rear. Before this scene fully registered in our minds we had exited the tunnel and unable to safely turn back or stop. We hope the driver and any passengers were not hurt.