Flying early to Paris was great as it gave us the rest of the day doing what Parisians do, live life without a care in the world. Delighted to be back on familiar soil with our turtle homes on our backs we strolled the streets of the Latin Quarter in search of our favourite kebab shop. After lunch we headed behind Notre Dame and came to a rest in a cafe outside the Pompidou centre. As the hours passed writing in our journal and discussing the past months we decided to make the effort and change venues for the grand distance of 2 blocks for a drink.

In the early evening we made our way on the RER to Perreaux to meet again with our friends Philippe and Emilie, sharing pizza and chatting before finally crashing for the night.

6 September

With only days of the trip left up our sleeve we made the most of our time in Paris. Starting at the Moulin Rouge we bought tickets for the evening show and shopped like crazy for hours, and hours, and hours (not to mention Steve's addition... HOURS). With a short hissy fit stop at Sacre Coeur only minutes into the shopping marathon Camilla was finally relieved to end in Zara. After months of daydreaming, window shopping and an occassional glance inside we made some much needed clothing replacement decisions.

Our shopping trip was not complete as Camilla made it clear she would be remaining behind unless a suitable birthday present for Mum was found. The shopping (and sightseeing) continued with visits to old favourites including a stroll outside the Louvre, visit to Place de Concorde, shopping up the entire length of the Champs Elysee before a second Steve style shopping related hissy fit completed the shopping day.

Back in the Pigalle district with all the red lights we entered the Moulin Rouge to find a full house buzzing with anticipation. The show was full of energy and a real feast for the eyes and ears with wonderful costumes (many of which were very small), feathers everywhere, a balancing duo, comedian juggler / drummer, ventriloquist, swimming pool complete with 3 m long pythons and half naked bather, song, dance and our first bottle of real French champagne for the trip.

7 September

Still in search of the perfect present we commenced our day with a walk through the Jardin du Luxembourg where we stopped for a goats cheese sandwich we continued towards Montparnasse via every boutique store along the way. Finally, we came across just the right gift... it's a suprise.

Under the Eiffel tower we finished the rest of the cheese before ending up in a little typical cafe / bar / brasserie for dinner. Waiting for the sun to set we emerged later for a final view of the Eiffel Tower at night. Underneath the structure is a huge rugby ball and thousands of fans watching the opening ceremony via big screens filling the air with intermittant cheers and crys.

Saying farewell to the icon we walked to the Arc de Triumphe for a look at night then finally retired from being a tourist for the day.

8 September

Catching the train in with Emilie we parted ways at Nation station and headed to the Saturday markets under the Eiffel Tower. What a great display of colour with all the fresh food, clothing, flowers and jewellery on such a sunny morning. Setting ourselves up in the gardens around Hotel de Invalide we ate fresh roasted ham and chicken before walking across the stunning Alexander III bridge, via the souvenir stores outside the Louvre then onto the pond at Jardin du Luxembourg to meet Emilie. Children were playing with hired sailing boats in the larger ponds around town and pushing them off the walls with long wooden sticks. Of course it was difficult to resist but due to a lack of time it will have to wait until next visit.

We returned to Perreaux with Emilie to meet Philippe and have an aparatif before returning to St Germain des Prix for our final evening meal together. Munching through confit of duck, marine salad and roasted bass fish we had a wonderful night in an extremely busy restaurant tucked away in a covered alleyway. The vibrance and life around eating out in Paris is so evident when you can find these little gems and share them with friends.

9 September

Today we were all going to be tourists. Philippe and Emilie were our guides and selected Fountainbleau Forest for a picnic lunch. Stocking up on supplies of cheese (6 varieties), baguette and fruit we headed to Barbizon village for a quick visit before eating. Coincidently the art focussed village was holding a street fair with traditional folk music, sculpture, clay turning and glass blowing exhibits and taste testing of local cuisine. Deep into the forest we cleared a space between the rocks and settled into a couple of hours of eating, making bridges out of fallen branches and generally having a great day out.

After lunch we visited the grounds of Fontainbleau Palace, a truly immaculate estate then returned for an eveing of playing Nintendo WII and laughing into the night. We will miss our friends and hope to either return or see them in Australia soon.

Paris remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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The beauty of waking up in a bed and breakfast rather than the tent is that there is nothing to organise or prepare, just wander downstairs, say yes to a full cooked breakfast and gaze out the window at the lightening morning. We were committed to only one task today, climb Ben Nevis mountain, the largest in Britain at over 1300 m. Although it does not compare is size to those we have walked in Switzerland the hike starts a measly 50m above sea level, the rest is up to us.

About 2.5 hours into the progresssively steeper section of the walk on loose rocks we commented that there had not been a single step taken in a downward direction. Another hour later and we both felt the burn creeping into our legs and to make things even more interesting the visibility declined rapidly from endless views down glacial valleys to a mere 20 metres ahead. Thankfully the mountain was crawling with likeminded crazy hikers and the path was well marked with cairns, large mounds of loose rocks which grow over time as passing walkers add their contribution to ensure the safety of those who follow.

Now deep in the clouds and swimming through the cutting wind filled with pellets of icy water we finally made it to the top of Britain. A truly surreal landscape lay before us with cutting flints and jagged cliffs slipping in and out of view. It didn't matter that the panorama was obscured by cloud cover, or that the journey up took 5 hours, we knew long beforehand that the only sight we looked forward to seeing was each other smiling back with the satisfaction that comes after such a lot of effort.

Down is harder than up! Knees knocking and heads bobbing we rolled back down with the realisation that our young knees don't feel young anymore. At the bottom we took a final glance up the valley of Glen Nevis at the ancient landscape and towering hills before a final nod indicating that a tick in our 'must do list' for the trip can be entered. Dinner was an extravagant affair in the carpark of the B&B. Sounds terrible but eating out gets very tiring so a quick mash of vegetables and rice was great. Sleep came moments after we entered our room, what a great day.

30 August

After another cooked breakfast all we craved was fresh fruit and a cup of tea. Back on the road again we headed to Neptune's Staircase, a series of 8 interconnecting lochs which make the passage from the North Sea to the Atlantic possible via Loch Lochy, Loch Ness and through the fjord around Fort William. Chatting to the loch attendants we learnt all there is to know about lochs, basically the water from upstream runs into the lower loch, who would have guessed!

Lazily strolling across the top gate and to our surprise a steamtrain heading to our next destination was casually puffing down below. Ok, ok it was kind of planned that we would see the steam train go over the Glenfinnan viaduct some 15km away but we had lost track of time, the race was on. Driving recklessly out of the carpark we topped out our speed chasing the train at a hair raising 30 miles an hour while Camilla hung out the window to capture some great images of the train in full flight running along the loch. At Glenfinnan viaduct (used on the way to Hogwarts in Harry Potter) we joined the other 30+ trainspotters with time to spare. After the excitement, which lasted around 30 seconds, was over we visited the information centre and learnt what we could of the numerous highlander battles before climbing the monument.

Lunch was enjoyed next to Loch Lochy Laggan Loch (we had fun with that name for hours) before following the cross country lochs including Loch Ness. No sighting of Nessie was made however we were visited by 3 jet fighters at low altitude when admiring Castle Urquhart from distance.

Onto Inverness our time was spent wandering through town, across the bouncy suspension bridge and stocking up on supplies for the evening meal. On cousin Anne's suggestion we aimed at the Cairngorms, a picturesque mountain range, to find accommodation. Later in the evening we finally came to a stop at a sport and recreation holiday park where we enjoyed a walk along Loch Insh before retiring.

31 August

Leaving Loch Insh and the Insh marshes behind we visited a stronghold for the Scottish army, Ruthven Barracks, set in the centre of a valley commanding awesome views of the surrounding countryside. In Dunkeld we stopped at the Police Station / Corner Store / Cafe / Post Office / Souvenir Shop to post the Britain book back to Rob and Sarah in London (thanks guys) then set ourselves up by the river for tea. Admiring the fast flowing waters with rich coloured tanin we noticed a fly fisherman going through the motions of casting at an angle where the light caught the whip of the line and fall of the droplets perfectly.

Through Cupar we dodged the hundreds of schoolkids out for lunch and continued on our way to the birthplace of golf. At St Andrews we resisted the temptation of running for a look at the famous 18th hole on the Old Course, instead choosing to set up on the beach for our final self catered hot lunch of spaghetti bolognase with mushrooms and spaghetti. The cooker and kitchen set has been one of the greatest investments on the trip as it has given us the opportunity to vary our diet, remain mostly healthy and enjoy cooking local ingrediants often with a better view than even the fanciest restaurant.

At the 18th hole we realised it looks like most other golf courses so to amuse ourselves we watched a couple of groups tee off and wished that we could join. Unfortunately there were three reasons we couldn't; 1 - Dress code, 2 - Own set of clubs, and 3 - Justify the $600+ green fees for two players! Camilla received a consolation in the form of her first golf glove and some souvenir golf balls to be lost at a course back home.

Now inspired to learn golf and return one day on a bigger budget we stopped at St Andrews Catheral ruins before taking the scenic drive down the east coast via Crail.

After enjoying watching the countryside roll by we made a final, and somewhat hurried stop due to cutting it fine for dinner back at Anne and Douglas', at the Firth of Forth with its towering road and spetacular rail bridges. With a howling wind it was an impressive sight seeing the Firth of Forth waters below whipped up to whitecaps. Crossing the road bridge we were funneled into an unplanned detour around Edinburgh which made us hopelessly late for dinner (approx. 45 minutes which on Camilla's watch is unforgivable).

Arriving at Anne and Douglas' we delighted to be welcomed back, enjoyed fine Jamie Oliver cuisine kept warm in the oven and after chatting about the weekend ahead we slept like drift wood.

1 September

With the most hectic month of travel now behind us the day promised to be great with Anne, Douglas and daughter Gale as our guides. First stop was the not to be missed Falkirk wheel. Similar in rise to Neptunes 8 canal locks the Falkirk wheel rotates boats from a higher canal to the water below using less than 10 kettles worth of electricity per turn. Camilla and Douglas combined their efforts to explain the physics behind the masterpiece (Archimedes and displacement of water balancing calculations) while Steve, Gale and Anne admired the asthetics before a cup of coffee in the cafe.

Next stop Castle Campbell set in a ravine over the pretty town of Dollar. As we approached the castle as if planned a Russian bride and Scottish groom were piped into the courtyard with us in close pursuit. Adding to the ambiance of our visit were the familiar tones coming from the bagpipes which carried effortlessly to our ears even at the top of the tower.

On our descent we bumped into the happy couple after the ceremony and became onlookers to the festivities to follow in the garden. As planned, Anne led us up the nearby Bunk Hill which as a child she use to climb and wave down at her Grandma in Dollar. We waved and were not surprised to receive little interest from the townfolk below.

Relaxing in the car we drove past the Wallace monument on our way to Stirling Castle. Reflecting on our luck at coming across a wedding complete with piper at Castle Campbell we joked that in order to top off the day a full pipe band outside Stirling would suffice. After touring the grounds and exploring the many rooms of the enormous complex we found ourselves looking down from the turrets at, you guessed it, a full pipe band on the lawn outside.

Topping off the day we treated our guides (and ourselves) to a lovely dinner at the Riverhouse Restaurant. In the evening we had drinks at the Orchard Park Hotel, formerly the infirmary where Mike Hall, Douglas and Englands current Prime Minister were all born. We enjoyed a great day with great company.

2 September

North Berwick, east of Edinburgh, was our major destination for today where we would be meeting up with Laura (eldest daughter) and her boyfriend Paul. On our way we stopped first at a country motor museum where the real action was outside. As if our luck from yesterday was continuing we chatted with the owners of almost 20 classic cars on a touring trip around Scotland. Deciding that we had learnt sufficient amounts about cars we skipped the museum and instead opted for coffee in a local art gallery.

Meeting Laura and Paul at the station we walked around the corner to the local pub for a wonderful Sunday roast (don't forget the trimmings). Full and satisfied after lunch we took a long walk on the beach and before we knew it Anne had jumped into the North Sea without a wetsuit while we remained dry and warm on the sand. Next stop the Bass Rock Bird Centre for refreshments in the sun (Irn Bru and Ribena juice). While Anne was sorting out her hair after the swim she dropped her hairclip down onto the rocks below the deck which was immediately taken as a token by a seagull to a nearby rock where it was later recovered by Steve. From the information centre we looked through a telescope at Bass Rock (aproximately 5km offshore) at the 10,000+ ganets and other sea birds, covering the rock like snow.

Informed of the fact by Laura we were encouraged to joined her in Edinburgh that evening to watch the final fireworks in celebration of the international art festival. Without delay the proposition was accepted and we headed into the limelight. Amidst the increasing crowds of people a dull rumble could be heard and was later identified as our stomachs. We ate at the very swish Brown's Restaurant and only in the nick of time received the bill before making a mad dash to Castle Street to watch the spectacular. Almost an hour later we revelled in our first impression of Edinburgh Castle illuminated by a stunning display of light and sound.

3 September

Keen to see the sights of Edinburgh in daylight we drove to the closest Park & Ride and whipped into the centre of town. Strolling up the Royal Mile we chose Deacon Brodie's Tavern for a traditional fair of haggis and chicken with real cider for lunch. It may not look pretty but haggis is certainly tasty, particularly edible if you don't think or know what is in it. After filling our bellies we went onwards to the castle where we searched for fireworks debris (easy to find as it was everywhere) and explored the many interesting exhibits including the war museum and crown jewels vault. Enjoying the fabulous commanding views from the castle walls whilst listening to the audioguide we learnt more of Scotlands colourful history.

On our way back down the Royal Mile we ducked in and out of many 'closes', the narrow alleyways leading to the living quarters and houses of the town folk. Stepping through each entrance to discover the underbelly of Edinburgh it is easy to imagine the city in centuries gone by as little seems to have changed. We visited the writers museum and thoroughly enjoyed the Robert Louis Stevenson exhibition before closing time then strolled down to Holyroadhouse, noted the Queens absence, and therefore enjoy tea once again without her company.

The rest of our afternoon was spent walking up the hills behind Edinburgh along the crags and then upwards to Arthur's Seat. With amazing views as far as Crail and North Berwick we soaked up the last of the afternoon sun before descending to Grassmarket, lower part of the old town, for nachos at a dinky pub.

4 September

Our morning started with a cooked breakfast prepared by Anne before we headed out with her and Jennifer (youngest daughter) to the Burrell Collection and Pollock House. The Burrell Collection was aquired over the lifetime of Mr Burrell and included numerous fine examples of art and furnishing from around the world. Pollock House on the same estate presented beautifully. The four of us enjoyed tea in the old kitchen before parting ways where we then ventured through the house admiring the architecture and gardens.

Using the Park & Ride we made our way into the heart of Glasgow and strolled down the busy Buchanan street, through Georges Square and then to the banks of the river. Using the comprehensive metro (one big loop) we jumped out at the Museum and Art Gallery where we spent the rest of the day until closing. The museum had one of the best presentations of natural history in a modern context and some wonderful Scottish art pieces as well as many famous painters such as Picasso, Renoir and Degas.

Our final evening in Scotland was spent in the company of Anne, Douglas, Gale and Jennifer as we ate and laughed well into the evening. We packed our bags properly for the first time in weeks and again were surprised it all fits. Saying our farwells, as we were leaving at 5.30am tomorrow, we thanked them for a wonderful time and look forward to seeing Anne and Douglas in Australia in November.

Touring Britain - Week 5 remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Arriving before opening time at Calke Abbey (back in England) we stopped at a lookout nearby overlooking the resevoir where a number of farmhouses and a small bridge were submerged in the flooding back in the late 1800s. Finding our way back into the immense estate of the Abbey we set up under a twisted old oak tree for tea, scones and LOTR. Deeply engrossed we were stirred from our reading by the sight and sound of more than 500 stampeeding sheep. Laughing at the display the most interesting aspect was listening to the huge variety of 'voices' as they baaa'ed' and we now fully appreciate the term to follow like sheep.

Once we made it into Calke Abbey (NT) it was easy to appreciate the baroque mansion, which was commenced in 1701, for its quirky inhabitants. The family has long since left yet the 1000+ taxidermied animals and extensive collection of natural history artifacts impress upon us the eccentricities of the previous owners. The house is unique compared with others that we have visited in that it has primarily been preserved in a state of decline rather than restored. Finally, from the courtyard where plumbing work uncovered a 13th century skeleton our visit ended by taking the 200m service tunnel to the brewery and bakehouse.

Sudbury Hall (NT) was our final house for the day with notable inclusions such as the costume trail displaying many outfits used in the BBC adaptations of Jane Austen novels, interior rooms used in Pride and Prejudice (BBC) and the exhibition of popular toys over the last 100 years. Our visit also included a long stop in the shade of a large moss covered tree overlooking the lake and reading LOTR.

This evenings destination would be another of the regions finest establishments. Arriving on the doorstep of Brian's (Mike's/Dad's friend from school/scout days) we felt right at home after a warm welcome and a wonderful meal of Chilli Con Carne prepared by Elaine, Brian's girlfriend. We all enjoyed a night of getting to know one another and planning our coming days in Derbyshire.

23 August

Today we woke up late (after 8am) which was bliss before mustering up the energy for a 'Sunday' (today is Thursday) consisting of tea, breakfast, tea, internet, Chilli Con Carne reheated, movie (Amelie), tea then welcoming Brian home from a day at w..., w.... it is too difficult to say but we will try again, w...ork!

Fully rejuvenated we joined Elaine in the early evening in her garden for a Pimms cocktail before toddling off to Duffield for the grand tour of unmissable family history sights such as the Hall family home, high street, scout hall and school. After the tour we walked along the quite streets to meet Frank and Beryl, Brian's parents and old time friends of grandma and pa. It was a real delight to be invited into their home, shown the agricultural prowess of Frank with his tomato house and how the neighbourhood trade in home grow vegetables affects GDP. On a lighter note we really cherished our time drinking tea and indulging in Beryl's fresh baked cookies while listening to them reminisce about life in Duffield and happy memories from when the Halls lived in England. We wish them the best of health and happiness and hope to visit again in the not too distant future.

A perfect finish to any 'Sunday' came at Brian's suggestion. We ate at George's seafood take away and had a fabulous meal of Haddock and Cod. Unfortunately, due to popular demand the supply of mushy peas had been depleated so baked beans would have to suffice, nevertheless a great meal at the end of a great day.

24 August

Our first day in Derbyshire commenced with a scenic drive to Lyme park, the famous film location and fascade of Pemberly in the BBC Pride and Prejudice. As the house did not open until 1 pm we spent the morning walking through the extensive grounds. At one point, far from the safety of the house, we were confronted by a placid herd of highland cattle. They may look cute and cuddly from a distance or when being showed, however close up they are not dissimillar to hairy, smelly and horned cow.

Far more attractive was the herd of speckled deer (50+) we encountd on our way back up to the house. Splashing out we joined the guided tour which engaged us in the family history and the constant alterations done to the house over the years. Lunch was enjoyed by the pond, infamous for the scene where Lizzy encounters Mr Darcy soaking wet. Our reenactment had all the sizzle and romantic intrigue of a herd of highland cattle. Steve needs to watch the series a few more times to get the scene just right.

Back in Denby with Brian and Elaine we visited the Dead Poet's Inn, a wonderfull dinkey English pub for traditional ales, ciders and wines all leading to a bundle of laughs. Dinner was a team affair of chicken topped with stirfry vegetables listening to the beach boys and then watching the Rolling Stones tour DVD.

25 August

Today proved to be one of our busiest days yet under the leadership of our local guides. Starting the tour of Derbyshire we stopped at a great second hand bookstore before heading to Matlock Bath. A short stroll along the river in the sun took us to the Victorian era bath house, petrifying spring, aquarium and hologram display. Feeling lucky we plaed the 2 pence slot games, winning 10p and losing 30p. Upwards and onwards we followed our noses to the Bakewell farmers market then into the home of the original Bakewell pudding.

Settling ourselves amidst the colourful flowers in a small park the four of us devoured our freshly baked goodies for lunch. While the girls chose to window shop the boys ducked off to the Orvis flyfishing tackle and hunting store with a strict time limit in place. Needing more than a quick shop to work off lunch Elaine guided us to the Froggarts Edge walk (NT), a precipice commanding stunning views over the Derby countryside.

After our short exertion our blood-tea levels were critically low so we made a bee line to Eyam, a small medieval village devastated by plague in the 1600s. When we arrived we were unexpectedly surprised to come across the tradition of dressing the town well in thanks for the years supply of water. Elaborate plaques were erected using local flora embedded in clay to make images and by the looks of them would have taken hours upon hours to prepare. Who would have thought a tea house in England could be busy enough to run out of tea cups! Thankfully some delicious Eyam lemon cake kept us calm. Walking through town we learnt from plaques on each house how the plague, which was spread from London via textile deliveries, had killed a large proportion of the townsfolk. In one household the tragic circumstances left a women to bury her husband and 7 children in only 9 days.

To lighten the mood for the afternoon we visited Moors Head lookout, significant as one of the beautiful places Brian took Mike and Chris (Steve's parents) when they visited on their honeymoon over 30 years ago. Our final tourist stop for the day was the amazing Chatsworth House Estate. With the late afternoon sun catching the gold leaf window frames the house glowed from every angle throughout the parkland.

Brian and Elaine had earlier made reservations at their favourite pub and treated us to a delicious meal at the Old Poets Corner in Ashover. Warm and drowsy from great fish & chips and pork blood pudding sausages both with heaps of mushy peas (finally) we had one last stopoff on the way back to Brian's.

With only a faint light on the horizon Brian pulled over at the edge of his fishing club resevoir. In the brisk still night air we stood in silence the suddenly made out the silouette of a squadron of migrating geese coming in to land on the glassy surface. The sounds of night animals mixed in with the chatter of numerous birds in the darkness filled our senses and left a lasting impression of the beautiful English countryside.

26 August

Taking charge in the kitchen we prepared the best Aussie / English breakfast possible for our hosts. The delicious breaky (if we do say) fueled us in preparation for our first flyfishing lesson with only the next door neighbours petunias as a target. We tried our hand at the art of casting with a hookless line and now can't wait to try properly back home. A walk through Duffield was selected for the day from a comprehensive book on treks starting and ending at a pub.

As we followed the course Brian retold tales of his childhood growing up in the area and how he and Mike/Dad explored the fields, river, narrow stoney paths, forest and nearby chimney stack. Behind the gardens of Little Eaton the path led us down to an abandoned railway, small stream and relic of an old mill wheel before climbing back up to fields on the plateau. Settling in the grass for a picnic lunch in the sun Elaine's mothers cheesy scones went down a treat along with sambos and apples. The temptation of the surrounding blackberry bushes was too much for Steve and soon after we were all collecting berries for a creation later that evening.

Walking back to our starting point at the Bridge Inn it seemed only fitting to have a quick beverage before returing to Brian's for our first roast chicken in months including all the trimmings. To follow was the promised fruits from our labour, a fresh blackberry and apple crumble. Desert never tasted soo good. Eating by the back fence as the sun set over the distant fields. The adjacent cow paddock to the back fence was full of some very curious bovine who must have smelt desert as the entire herd congregated only feet away. Camilla the cow whisperer made friends quickly patting thier wet leather noses while Brian contemplated a potential future in farming.

27 August

Unfortunately our morning commenced with farewells to Brian and Elaine who have been wonderfull hosts over the last 5 nights. It has been great sharing so much time chatting, laughing and forging a new friendship, we look forward to reciprocating their generosity soon.

Our only stop for the day was along Hadria's Wall (NT) where we learnt some of the details regarding the 125km long baricade erected to keep the Northeners out of the Roman Empire. Birdoswald Roman Fort (NT) was an interesting visit with ruins to explore and some good exhibits. Further east we stopped for tea at Cawfields mile-castle and quarry set against a picturesque row of crags jutting out of the surrounding farmland.

On the road again we failed to restrain from one of the worst indulgences, KFC before arriving a bit later than expected in Glasgow, Scotland. Standing on the doorstep of Douglas and Anne's we were excited to meet relatives from the other side of the world for the first time (Anne is Mike's cousin). After a warm welcome and a hot cut of tea we slept soundly with plans to head further north tomorrow and return to Glasgow later in the week.

28 August

Leaving early in the morning we stopped on the banks of Loch Lomond where, as if on cue, a kilt clad piper jumped out from behind the bushes and started playing. Excited by this chance encounter with a wild native piper we wondered what lay ahead of us in the Scottish highlands. A pit stop for tea by a stream and we drove to the Falls of Lorne, a horizontal tidal phenomenon through a narrow gap leading out to the sea. Little did we know that later in the day we would cross the road bridge see the falls running in the opposite direction as the sea pushes its way up the valley into the Loch.

Our lunch venue was in the delightful seaside town of Oban. Perching on the wharf alongside the seagulls we ate while watching the ever moving scene of boats, pipers and birdlife.

After lunch we made the rare decision to go our seperate ways, Steve attending a tour of the Oban distillery (oldest and one of the smallest in Scotland) famous for their 14 year single malt while Camilla strolled the town window shopping and soaking up the atmosphere. When we met up Steve explained in full detail the process of making fine whisky and proudly displayed an investment that will be enjoyed on many special occassions in the years to come.

Our afternoon was spent driving the scenic roads around Lochs and through valleys to Fort William. As the camping equipment has been honourably dismissed from duty we nestled into a stunning B&B by the water for the night. Dinner was enjoyed in the park opposite watching the sun crack through the clouds in the final moments of our first full day in Scotland.

Touring Britain - Week 4 remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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We were lucky enough to be able to pack our drenched tent between showers this morning before driving to Stratford-upon-Avon. We are not sure what the difference between 'upon' and 'on' (as in Walton-on-Thames) therefore we developed the theory that 'upon' means town is divided by the water course, and 'on' is that town sits on one bank. Parking in the centre of town we wondered the quaint streets with umbrella's in hand and were shocked by the photo's taken recently of the flooding and surprised at how well the town has recovered.

As tourists it is our duty to clutter the streets, buy items at twice there value, support the tea house industry and have a cheesy photo of us standing in front of famous people's birthplaces. Outside Shakespeare's birthplace we hoped to feel the literary vibe, but remember he was only a baby at this point so we gained no additional creative inspiration. Opposite his first home we discussed the value of purchasing and packing a leather bound Oxford limited edition of his complete works before looking at the price tag. Outcome, we still have space for other souvenirs and will return to hunt for a second hand copy instead.

Strolling past the Avon lock (NT) and canal we ducked into a traditional soft toy shop then made our way back to the car for a long drive into Wales. Navigating around Cardiff we assessed the closest campsite which proved to be too dingy (which says quite a lot) and therefore continued onwards to the Gower Peninsula. In retrospect the decision was perfect for us as we sat on the windy hilltop campsite in Oxwich Bay surrounded by the stunning views across the Bristol Channel to England.

16 August

After a night being battered by fresh winds we awoke feeling free of the burden to enter the bustle of a city. Quite the contrary, we were some of the small few who chose to walk the hills behind Rhossli Beach early in the morning. With clear views across the farming district and out to Worms Head we enjoyed hot chocolate and vegemite & cheese sandwiches sheltered in a rocky outcrop near the beacon (193m).

Joining a 70+ year old couple for the scramble back down hill (hope we are that good after our 50th wedding anniversary) we crossed onto the wide flat expanse of sand to investigate the few remains of the shipwreck Helvetia (1887). It was at this point that Camilla had a feeling of connection with the place given that her maiden name is Gower. GO GOWER POWER!

Climbing back up from the beach onto the jagged cliffs we ventured out to Worms Head and watched a pair of grey seals frolicking in the cold sea below. Returning across the land spit we found an alcove amongst the cliffs for a few pages of LOTR and took our leave when the wind whipped up around us. The Gower coastline and peninsula (NT) has been a real pleasure to visit and explore, just the outdoor medicine we needed.

17 August

Overnight there was heavy rain making the act of packing the tent all that more enjoyable. Leaving the Gower Peninsula behind we turned north to visit Aberdulais Falls (NT) where there is the remains of industry spanning more than 400 years. Harnessing the power of the waterfall and river a great tin plate factory was the last production facility in situ. We learnt a great deal (everything we now know) about tin manufacture and Wales prominence internationally. Admiring one of Europe's largest waterwheels still in operation we became mesmerised by the sloshing and lapping of water while deep below where we stood a huge turbine was converting the channelled water into electricity. Next stop, 10 feet across the path for tea and welsh cakes (aka drop scones), then a second helping before moving on.

Dinefwr Park (NT) and castle car park was the next elaborate venue for our culinary delights with a quick pesto and red salmon spaghetti (one of the best yet) before visiting the house. After enjoying the small number of rooms open to the public we stood at the back gate watching a herd of white cattle grazing and a number of spotted deer at the edge of the woods (sound strenuous?)

Having now visited a number of houses and castles we decided to shake it up a bit and headed directly underground at the Celtic, Roman and Victorian Dolaucothi Gold Mines. Ginger (aka Steve), our red headed guide, kept us shaking the narrow underground passages with laughter whilst relaying sad stories of the difficulties experienced by the workers. Luckily we had a volunteer 7 year old boy (the age most boys started work in the mine) in the group to help with demonstrations.

After leaning over an 80ft vertical exit shaft where the quartz was thrown then carted outside Camilla became the victim of the next demonstration. Requested to step onto a wooden trap door nearby her task was to jump on the count of 3 as hard as she could. With perfect effect and timing she lifted her foot and tapped her toe with a cheeky grin. Encouraged by all she reluctantly stamped as hard as she could the second time which gave the desired effect. Every cavern and passageway thundered then echoed. When asked how deep we estimated the hollow below to be, all the guesses exceeded 80ft similar to the adjacent hole. The group gasped when Ginger explained that Camilla was standing above a sheer drop of approximately 80 millimetres.

Relieved to be out in the fresh air we decended into the valley learning more of the local geology before commencing our search for huge amounts of our own welsh gold. After a total of 10 minutes of panning we realised why this mine went bankrupt numerous times, and why welsh gold is the most expensive in the world.

In the afternoon we drove to Aberystwyth on the Atlantic coast. Although the clouds threatened to break we braved the cold wind to explore the castle ruins and watch the seaside town slip into evening as the funicular made repeated climbs up the mountain behind.

Nearing exhaustion and taking stock of our soaking tent, 3 continuous weeks of sleeping on the ground and long, needing to charge camera equipment and the driving rain we found a lovely 600 year old farm house B&B. Yawn, snore...

18 August

Driving north we came to Porthmadog where we took a quick break for a walk to the info centre and admire the Welsh Highland Railway Station. After reading the weather report we decided to see the Bourne Ultimatum (great). As the afternoon came to an end we unfortunately were turned away from a number of B&B's (not because of how we smelt thankyou), in particular a georgous one nestled under Mount Snowdon in the National Park. After almost 2 1/2 hours we found ourselves back where we started having completed a loop around Snowdonia. Concerned with the dark clouds and light rain we gave in to the call of common sense and pitched in the waning light.

19 August

Although the clouds hadn't cleared it was possible for us to pack the tent without getting too wet and drive into the seaside walled town of Caernarfon. Our tourist activities commenced with Camilla leading us on a historic walk around the walled sections of the village and harbour. During our walk we learnt of the development of the town, trading community life and most importantly that at The Black Boy Inn a room, a bottle of gin and a lady for the night "to help with the washing of sailor clothes" used to cost 4&6.

With perfect timing Camilla had us arrive at Caernarfon Castle just as the huge doors opened. We explored this semi ruinous structure, still classified as a Royal property in service completely alone. Letting our imaginations run wild we ran around like arches, guards and royalty until more sane visitors arrived.

Determined not to have a repeat of the night before where we found ourselves homeless we drove directly (do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars) to Plas-y-Coed, the cute B&B in the National Park. Greated with open arms and a sympathetic smile Cory, our host and owner, made us feel right at home. After unpacking we drove off to the postcard picture perfect little town of Beddgelert for a Sunday roast beef lunch (with all the trimmings). Lyn's Cafe was full of locals and their families, obviously a great location to wash down a big roast with a cold glass of milk.

Stuffed to the brim we took a walk along the swollen river in a slight drizzle to Gelert's grave (NT). Gelert's death was one of the great tragedies in the aristocratic family of the area. One day his master went hunting and could not find his trusty canine companion anywhere. When he returned from the hunt he could not find his son either and instead came across Gelert covered in blood next to the stained sheets of his sons cot. Enraged, he drove his sword through Gelerts chest where the poor animal let out his final howl. At the sound of his dying yelp he was answered by the scream of his masters son in the next room laying beside the savaged body of a wild wolf. Distraught by his mistake the master buried Gelert in a place of honour and never went hunting again. The town is now named after the faithful brave hound.

We enjoyed a light meal in the garden back at the B&B for dinner where Steve received a gift from above just before his first loving mouthfull. Fortunately his enormous head was just big enough to absorb the enormous poop a plane sized seagull delivered. After the bombing a bath was in order and for the rest of the evening we amused ourselves with LOTR and tea by the fire.

20 August

Siting at breakfast early'ish' on this fine Monday morning Camilla explained to Steve with no detail spared how determined she was to make today a "Sunday". This would entail sitting by the fire, reading, drinking tea, long bath, snoozing, more tea and then being served dinner before bed. At what precise point in time it was decided that we would climb Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, is impossible to say. "Sunday" has been officially postponed on account of good weather.

Like all good climbs we started at the bottom, trudged through ankle deep mud, dodged mountain sheep, clambered across stiles (fence ladders), enjoyed fabulous views and finally made it to the top. At 1085m Mt Snowdon commands breathtaking views of the numerous lakes, valleys and coastline of Snowdonia as well as the puffing cogwheel mountain steam railway.

The feeling of accomplishment on summiting was great, yet a little difficult to bask the serenity of the surrounds with the hundreds of others, in partcular those who cheated and caught the train half way up. With a windchill factor near zero the countryside below had a crisp clean and dramatic feel unlike other regions we have visited, brilliant.

Our path down took us across a jagged ridge and finaly stopped, or so we thought, at the Wr-wyddfa steam railway station. Although tired Steve is capable of mustering unknown quantities of childish excitement at the prospect of seeing another steam engine pull alongside. The excitement was short lived when we both realised after that we had only just missed the last bus for over 1 1/2 hours. Onwards we strode, another 2.5 miles (approx. 2.5 gazillion kilometres) back to our refuge in the valley. At least the day ended like a Sunday for Camilla with dinner at the Snowdonia Hotel (Chicken Kiev and Steak & Ale Pie), a hot bath and tea by the fire.

21 August

After another big hot breakfast we chatted to Cory about her amazing travels throughout the world. Our travels recommenced with a scenic drive through northern Wales to Erddig House (NT). Some of the notable points of interest include the 18th century out buildings still in near working order such as the laundry, bakehouse, sawmill, smithy and joiners shop. The residing family held their servants in high esteem attributing great works of art and depicting their loyalty and hard work through poetry. Camilla has been admiring the same china mug in ALL NT souvenir shops and finally let herself indulge with the purchase of a beautiful tea mug. As the evening approached we pitched our very own stately home down wind of a cattle stable complete with amorous bull.

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Our morning began with an underground exploration of Halliggye Fogue (EH), an ancient Cornish Iron Age burial chamber or shrine. The interlinking unlit passages required some ducking and weaving to navigate with our head lamps on. Luckily we made it out past the deadly (looking) massive (if you are an ant) spiders.

Halliggye Fogou as seen without the torches

Wow, it is really dark in here!

The next stop was far more photogenic.

St Michael's Mount was founded in the 12th century and following the English civil war the St Aubyn family have retained a residence in the castle. We enjoyed egg sandwiches and tea on the windy island watching the tall ship and other sailing boats enjoy the breeze. As it was high tide during our visit it was necessary to do a little bit of boating ourselves with the resident ferry masters to get over to the island and back to the mainland.

After another scenic drive through the hedges we made a short stop at Tregiffian burial chamber which strongly resembled a large rock with a small gap underneath. Unfortunately over the thousands of years the nearby road has encrouched on this site and destroyed the rest. Arriving at what we thought was our final destination, give that you can't drive further west of Land's End, we only remained for a short time. Uninterested in an overcrowded novelty park we opted for hot chips at Sennen Cove watching the summer frivolity and sea birds.

Determined for a full day of sight seeing we filled in the rest of the afternoon and evening with a 100km scenic drive to Tintagel head campground.

9 August

Tintagel Castle (EH) presented a concise summary of the King Arthur legend and history entwined, far more than we learnt from Spamalot. Set on a cliff edge Tintagel Castle began as a trading settlement for Celtic kings during the 5th and 6th century and remains in ruins which were still in good working order until the 13th century. The view of the bay far below and adjacent coastline is stunning.

We ventured into a vast sea cave which led us through to the other side of the peninsula on which the castle rests. Back in the bay we admired the 20m+ waterfall crashing onto the sand and pebbles before making its way to the sea.

Tintagel's longest standing complete building is the Old Post Office (NT) dating from 15th century and preserved as it was used back then as a farmhouse and residence. The narrow staircase, rickety roof beams, low doorways and small rooms gave us reason enough not to buy a 550 year old home if you want to maintain good posture. To top off our absorbtion of Cornwalls history and delightful farm scapes we sat for a while on a rock wall eating a selection of cornish pasties we saw being made earlier that morning on our way to the castle. They don't come any better or bigger!

Leaving Tintagel we took a short detour through Boscastle harbour and village on our way to Arlington Court (NT). Unfortunately we were late by 15 minutes to view one of Britains largest collection of horse drawn carriages. Instead we amused ourselves with the extensive collection of model ships (50+), massive shell collection and art throughout the house before strolling in the formal garden and green house.

Deep in the Exmoor National Park we set up camp in the corner of a field with the sound of a nearby creek lulling us into sleep, horses standing quietly on the hillside silouetted by moonlight and the canopy of the Hawkcombe Woods keeping the dew off the tent till morning.

10 August

You may be wondering if we are all 'castled' out yet, and to you we say NEVER! Castle hunting has become rather addictive and for today our first catch would be Dunster Castle (NT). Owned and lived in by the Luttrell family for 600 years we thought it was a bit drafty but certainly good for entertaining. While Steve was admiring the art, furnishings and grandfather clocks Camilla was riveted to a page of scribbled notes in a glass cabinet in a dark corner under the oak staircase. It seems there were a few holes worth picking to pieces in the 1800's instruction manual attached to the portable medicine chest. In particular the bleeding of 12 ounces for treatment of early fever goes against all modern day knowledge.

After cheese and tomato sandwiches in the shade of a huge oak looking out towards the Bristol Channel we ventured in to town as our supplies of traditional clotted cream and lemon meringue fudge was critically low. Without further delay or a moment to lose we made our way post haste for the 14:55 train from Minehead on the West Sommerset Heritage Steam Railway. After careful deliberation over the question to catch or not to catch, Steve is adamant that it is far more exciting to see the action from the platform.

Full of fudge we thought some exercise was in order. Hiking from the carpark we slugged our way up to the tallest point in Exmoor, Dunkery Beacon (NT) at 519m. It took all of 13 minutes at a stretch and the view was well worth the exertion.

11 August

Stourhead Gardens (NT) was featured in the recent production of Pride and Prejudice which made for a lovely morning tour.

We were assisted by a GPS transceiver with audiovisual guide to the grounds and estate which should be read as an indicator of how large the gardens are. Although fairly accurate the GPS plotter would have run us into a number of large trees if directions were followed blindly. Most of our day was absorded at Stourhead so we decided in the late afternoon after a visit to the house that a drive to Bath would be all we could manage.

Having found a suitable campsite we squeezed onto the last pitch available with Teilo and Kathy, a very firendly couple from Brisbane. As dusk fell the four of us caught the bus into town for a walk past the baths, abbey and down to the river Avon with the attractive Pulteney Bridge. Even though it was only 9pm when we started hunting for dinner most of the pubs had stopped serving so we took a local's recommendation and were delighted by the Eastern Eye Indian restaurant. On the return bus journey to camp we experienced the unfortunate disgraces of drunken aggression from youths who evidently were generally dissatisfied with riding the bus, the driver, the seats, windows, each other or anything else for that matter.

To guide us down the narrow path back to camp Teilo produced his trusty wind-up torch and we all slept well as the midnight rain shower started.

12 August

Today would be dedicated to bathing, well visiting the Roman Baths in Bath actually. We avoided the shower drenching us by remaining in our tent till it stopped later that morning. Catching the bus into town we spent about an hour and a half in the Roman bath centre, testing the water temperature and admiring the plumbing before finally tasting a drop from the kings spring in the famous Pump Room. Originally the water was believed to have healing qualities and upon tasting the 46 degree water with its mineral rich after taste it certainly was bad enough to be medicinal.

The rest of the afternoon was spent preparing for an all Australian, outdoor, campside, sing along, tong turning mouth watering, lip smacking gastronomical BBQ! As we finished the last morsel of grilled scottish salmon we chatted till late with Teilo and Kathy. It was very nice to share our campsite with friendly likeminded Aussie travellers, we wish them well on their adventure.

13 August

Dyrham Park (NT) was our first stop for today. Walking down the kilometre long drive we detoured into the woods and spotted a young family of speckled deer. Points of interest in the house included wonderful paintings of Amsterdam depicting harbour and village scenes from the late 1700's and as always an impressive kitchen complex.

After a quick sandwiches lunch in the parking lot (this is totally normal in all National Trust country houses, usually equipped with picnic tables) we headed off to Lacock Abbey and village for the afternoon. Totally saturated with historically interesting tales a point of interest in the Abbey was the famous window which William Talbot used as the subject for the first negative / positive photograph. Walking through the rooms it was also of interest to note that Harry Potter was filmed here using the cloisters and basement for scenes. Finally we had a quick read and paraphrase of one of the few copies produced of the Magna Carta.

A walk through the lovely village of Lacock was not sufficient exercise to offset the carrot cake from the local baker-ess wearing complete 1800s attire. We enjoyed the streets used in the BBC productions of Pride and Prejudice and Emma while desperately trying to imagine the avenues with horse and buggy instead of cars.

Our final stop for the day would take us back 5000 years in time to a point where Avebury was home to a small developed farming community (not much has changed in that time evidently). Pondering the immense stone circles, long stone lined procession way and deep moats around the town rivals Stonehenge for intrigue, historic significance and mangnitude of effort to develop so long ago.

With the late afternoon sun on our shoulders we walked through wheat fields up the hill to admire the man-made Silbury Hill (commenced at the same time as the pyramids although not as impressive) and delved into the West Kennet Long Barrow burial chambers. Much of our current understanding of the healt, diet and rituals of ancient communities is learnt from the burial chambers making a visit both fascinating and ominous.

14 August

At the third campsite we had tried the night before we found ourselves approximately 10km outside of Oxford. We awoke to the drumming of heavy rain on the tent skin under an apple tree in the back paddock. Taking Sarah and Robs' advice (NZ friends in London) we decided to try the 'Park and Ride', a system of strategically placed parking lots linked by buses to the centre of town. A great idea to keep the crazy tourists out of the city and help maintain better air quality and less congested roads (think about it Sydney)

At the Royal Blenheim Pub we enjoyed a burger they claim to be the best in Oxford (SnC rating - 8/10). The rain finally subsided sufficiently for us to dash to Christ Church although there was no real need as we look like mountaineers in our wet weather gear. The famous dinning hall was used in Harry Potter and as it was presented ready for dinner it is easy to imaging the 100+ diners sitting to dinner under the watchful eye of the church leaders, or in Harry's case Dumbledore. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking town and hiding from the rain in a hot dank internet cafe blogging.

Back on the Park and Ride we extended our pantry inventory to include soy sauce which added the perfect element to a feast of rice and green vegetables whilst singing 'Don't sit under the apple tree with anyone else but meeee...'

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At no extra charge our car (Vauxhall Holden Astra 4 Door) for the next 5 weeks was delivered to NZ Avenue and arrived at around 11 am. Without delay we vacated the loungeroom floor and returned it to its original state, stocked up at sainsburys ready for the British touring trip of a lifetime. Heading out we made it all of 10 km (or approximately 6 miles) to our first stop at Ham House and gardens managed by the National Trust (NT). Liz and Ken / Mum and Dad bought the membership as a Christmas present prior to our trip which we already realise will be a great asset during the trip. Ham House was of interest as we watched a documentary on the NT and Ham House which certainly added to the experience in real life. Unfortunately the kitchens were closed due to flooding in the recent rains but we are told the damage was minor.

Next stop was Canterbury with its fabulous cathedral which we were all of 1 minute late for entry however the outside and grounds were worth the visit, not to mention some of the old town houses and a quick walk along the fortifications.

2 August

Our morning started with a 2 hour walk through the NT managed White Cliffs of Dover coastline. It was great to be up before the rest of the daily visitors to this section of coast as we could enjoy the morning sea breeze alone together.

We continued through Dover, Flokstone and stopped in Rye watching the tide advancing over lunchtime, a quick poke around the antique shops and until we could not restrain ourselves any longer and bought lots of little items (chocolate covered sultanas from the lolly shop next door). Touring through the old fishing village of Hastings we turned right towards Battle to visit the site of the infamous clash of 1066 AD.

The theatrical audioguide and light sunshower left us with a real impression of the battle which shaped British history when William the Conqueror (formerly William the Bastard, truly) fought King Harold and won. At the cost of almost 7000 men in one day, including King Harold, the battle ground below our feet held more anguish than we will ever know. We valued the history lesson and our visit so much that we joined English Heritage on the spot to compliment our NT membership, now England is our oyster to discover all her treasures FREE.

Camping at Castle View Campground we could see Peversby Castle (funnily enough) and planned our visit for the morning.

3 August

Before the crowds associated with opening times wallked in we walked the grounds of Peversby Castle (admiring our campsite from the previous night) where William the Bastard (he hasn't won the battle at this point) and his army landed and prepared for the fight.

Our next stop was sunny Eastbournewith the beautiful early 19th century pier. We quickly became the source of amusement for the passing parade of locals as we had set up for a full buffet breakfast on the wall of the promenade. Muesli, fruit, tea, spreads and fresh bread was the order of the day and we are sure to have made those in the expensive restaurant behind us very jelous as we had the better view. Having reviewed the Lonely Planet commentary on Eastbourne we certainly agree that octogenarians choose this delightful town for thier holidays as evidenced by the embroided floral cardigans for sale and more park benches per mile of promenade than anywhere else on earth, we LOVED it.

Touring the coast with a stop at Birling Gap (NT) and the 7 sisters peaks we would argue that the white cliff views and beach access outshine Dover.

A short shopping stop in Seaford for camping repair supplies before perching on the cliffs for a hot self catered curry lunch. After lunch something came over Camilla which compelled her to take the drivers seat. In retrospect cruising through busy holiday spot Brighton and Hove was not as relaxing as the country lanes to follow. We had planned on going to the Isle of White for a day however when we found out that the ferry alone would be twice our daily budget and most of the campsites were already full due to the Cowes regatta we had to change our plans.

Feeling a little disheartened we made excellent use of our time in Portsmouth historic wharves before driving to Winchester campground. After a tiring day the last thing we needed was 4 semi-retired camping managers (yes it takes 4) to work out if they had any space for us we had to remain calm regarding the near empty paddock we passed on our way to reception. In the end they carefully guided us to our pitch with a smile.

4 August

A short stop at Northington Grange was all that was required to see the parklands and acropolis style columns at the front of the 18th century house, then onto Winchester town. We visited the city mill which is in full working order after NT took over management. Greeted at the door by the flour grinding manager complete with a spot of flour on his nose we learnt more in the subsequent 10 minutes about where bread comes from than we thought possible. It was great to see how they used to harness the rivers energy and a little sad to note that of the 90+ mills in the district only a few remain standing, and only this one still works. A beautiful walk along the river took us to Wovesley Castle (EH) ruins then past Jane Austen's final home opposite the spectacular Winchester Cathedral.

Leaving Winchester we made our way for lunch in the gardens of Mottisfont Abbey founded in 1201. In such a stately home there is no more fitting meal than baked bean sandwiches and tea, although a pan fried trout such as those in the river would have also sufficed.

As if today had not been busy enough it seemed logical to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine at Stonehenge. Fasttracked through long queues is one of the great benefits provided by NT or EH membership and once through the door we giggled at the audioguide speculations as "we really can't be certain", or our favourite "we don't know but...". Moments after we had left our speculations seem far more likely anyway. It is unfortunate the site has been overrun by tourists (shame we fall into the same category) as it would be far more fulfilling to have peace during a wander between the stones in reflection of the ancient past.

5 August

Our morning commenced at Kingston Lacy (NT) in the superb grounds before entering this impressive house. In particular the story of Corfe Castle siege and subsequent destruction made the viewing of the castle keys over the fireplace even more symbolic of the courage of one lady. Notable aspects of the house include the collection of Egyptian artefacts, working 16th century grandfather clock complete with original cat gut weight strings, and an extensive art collection including Rubens and Titian.

So, today is Sunday therefore nothing would be more fitting than a full roast lunch complete with trimmings in a dinky pub. Phelips Arms Hotel offered the perfect selection of yorkshire pudding, beef, pork, leek and whitesauce, home made apple sauce and super hot horse radish cream. After lunch we went into the Phelips family home (next door) called Montacute House. Built in 1588 and modified over the coming 300 years the key points of interest included a National Portrait Gallery collection on loan showing the royal lineage through the ages, Steves first attempt to write with a feather quill (no improvement noted) and THE RACE.

Camilla stood with the crowd eagerly watching as she clasped her lance and steadied her stead. Lauren dug her sparkling pink heels into the soft lawn and looked at her opponent with all the savagery and determination a 5 year old can muster. As the course fell behind in their wake, their trusty stallions pressed on as fast as their wooden rollers allowed, and their lances now burdened with the weight of straw rings glinted in the sun, it was Lauren by a nose in the end. Camilla commented in the stables after that her achilles was a lack of sparkling pink stilletos.

Our evening was spent at an adventure camp on the river Dart, where we swung through the trees on a big kids jungle gym complete with flying fox.

6 August

Camilla took the wheel with gusto thismorning as Steve navigated the way through the back lanes of Devon, past the steam railway to Berry Pommeroy Castle (EH). Although the castle is in partial ruins the audio tour was of great interest with detailed descriptions of life in the 15th and 16th century, and tales of the lingering ghosts from the family.

Munching on carrot sticks we delayed the hunger pains until after the Dartmouth car ferry to Dartmouth Castle (EH). After 2 minute noodles (please assume tea follows all main meals) we explored the cannon battery and now realise how much time is consumed in preparation for firing a cannon. Back in Dartmouth we wandered town, admired the harbour, watched the steam train depart across the estuary and realised how big the tides in this area really are as we saw yachts moored standing on thier keels in the mud.

Dartmouth is beautiful of course you already know that from the photo above.

7 August

No trip to the south of England is complete without a stop in Modbury (???). Camilla was drawn in to the local butcher by his broad smile and good looking rump. After receiving advice from Mr Butcher who has probably lived here for the last 70 years, and all the locals in the store, we were finally set on our way in search of the best Devonshire cream tea in town. Finding a spot in the sun we researched the matter of scone-jam-cream vs. scone-cream-jam fully and can report with little hesitation that we are equally happy with either option.

On the scenic tourist drive to Kingsbridge we saw nothing as the 8-10 foot high hedges are far taller than our car. Our destination was Lanhydrock House (NT), one of the finest examples we have come across depicting the sheer decadence and wealth of some families during the Victorian era. Before entering the house we walked alongside the vintage car shuttle taking visitors down the drive and set ourselves up in the cow paddock for rump steak sandwiches and unfortunately didn't make friends with Daisy.

National Trust has preserved and presented every room of Lanhydrock House with attention to the finest details, in particular the childrens wing complete with toys and bear skin rugs, fabulous 8 room kitchen taking up the majority of the downstairs, and the son's bedroom as he left it before going to war.

Near the end of the day we arrived at Cornwall's greatest fortress, Pendennis Castle (EH), developed by Henry VIII in the 16th century. Playing soldier saving damsel in distress (Steve doesn't make a very good damsel) we explored the keep, gun battery and war shelters on this sunny windswept peninsular until closing time.

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Given the above disclaimer which should be read as an apology to frequent readers our subsequent blogging efforts, we hope, you will enjoy with less words and more photos than ever before. Depicting our journey through Britain, Wales and Scotland should be even easier to relay in person as we will be home in under a month (which is really unbelievable).

Please also note the following for all subsequent entries.

Based on our recent experience over the last week we would like to make the following general statement regarding visits to houses, gardens, historic sites, castles and natural environments. If we add no commentary or specific descriptions to our notes for the photos please assume the following applies;

"Location 'X' presented us with a glorious/unsurpassed/exceptional/exquisite/enjoyable insight and/or educational experience during our visit to the beautiful/extensive/astounding/lush/fascinating etc. architectural/furnishings/artworks/gardens/prehistoric monoliths/collections from 2000BC to 2007AD. Location 'X' is well worth the visit and/or a must see if you are touring Britain. We would like to thank/compliment/offer our best to the English Heritage/National Trust for all their hard work/dedication/enthusiasm/fanaticism to maintain/conserve this site. "

We will endeavour to find an internet location soon, currently we are in Bath and about to have a BBQ with a couple of friendly Australians we met yesterday, best wishes.

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While we were excited about our first flight in months we were even more thrilled to be arriving in London, and by London we mean the sheep paddock called Stansted Airport. The bus ride rocked us to sleep for almost 2 hours before we emerged at Baker Street in the pooring rain. Totally unphased we put on full mountain wet weather gear and strode off in search of the Queen.

Baker, Oxford, New Bond, Piccadilly, Pall Mall and The Mall are all far easier street names to navigate than the last 4 months. Ladden with our heavy burdens and convict pride we arrived at the gates of the 'Mother Ship', Buckingham Palace. The sun came out in time for us to enjoy the Queen Victoria memorial, a stroll through St James Park and visit the horse guard courtyard before synchronising our watches with Ben (the big one that is), and finally stopping to marvel at the London Eye.

Having ascertained which of the dozens of platforms at Waterloo Station was ours we rode to Walton-on-Thames and walked onto New Zealand Avenue. Greeted by our New Zealand friends the jokes regarding their street name quickly subsided to a warm welcome into their home where we would be based for the coming days.

Day One - 27 July 2007

Fully stocked up (finally) with Australia's finest condiment (we had to regain the rose in every cheek), our start and end point would be Waterloo Station. For today it was a long walk in the first sunshine locals had seen in weeks. Walking along the South Bank we came to Englands largest collection of Modern Art at the Tate Museum. As with all visits ever made to modern art collections, Camilla swears to never return with Steven in tow as the constant criticism and mumbling disturbs the other visitors and embarasses to no end. Vegimite was clearly the only thing that would placate Steve.

Tower Bridge, to our surprise was baby blue rather than red as we had thought for some reason, yet no less impressive. We enjoyed watching the red double decker buses and London cabs cross the small gap in the middle of the bridge where the Thames is winking up from below. Unfortunately, due to long queues we would miss the last Yeoman tour of the Tower of London so we admired the stronghold from outside instead and are determined to visit next time round.

A short stop on the steps of St Paul's cathedral was necessary after a quick peak inside, then down Fleet Street we went to Temple Church ( in Da Vinci Code) and most importantly to the birthplace of tea consumption, Twinnings first retail store. It is nice to be back in a civilised country where tea is cheaper and more readily available than coffee. One of our favourite places in London is Covent Garden with its myriad of entertainers, tea houses, pubs and quaint specialist toy shops. As if our legs weren't tired enough we bypassed the Royal Opera House before dashing to Leichester Square to find out what was on the stage in the West End tonight.

Camilla took substantial convincing before finally agreeing to go to Cabaret, what with all that unnecessary dancing, singing and over the top theatrics... promise. With some time to spare before curtain up we walked a big triangle through Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus both writhing with activity before stopping for take-away chinese outside the theatre. Whether it is our Aussie accents or broad smiles, we don't mind which, we were upgraded to our own private box, LUCKY!

Our boomerang tour for the day took us out of the theatre to Waterloo station via Big Ben where we checked we were still on time for the train. With the rain starting lightly there was a magic in the air as the lights of Westminster lit up the underneath of the clouds overhead. The buzz of the evening was drowned out only by Ben's chiming 11pm as we turned for the station.

Day 2 - 28 July - Back on a bike!

To be sure, the greatest consipiracy in history mandated by the Queen herself is that ALL BRITISH are to tell the rest of the world that England has miserable weather. For all the evidence we have on hand suggests that England is blessed with crisp sunny summer days (ignoring the recent devastating floods). To take full advantage of the day Sarah suggested a bike ride along the Thames river and received no opposition from us.

Past the Aston Martin dealership and through a small field we were gracefully bumping and jerking along the banks in no time. Our first stop was Hampton Court Palace to admire Henry VIII love pad and gardens then onto Bushy park to track deer to no avail. Onto Kingston for a picnic lunch next to the river using fresh local farmers produce.

On our return we stopped to eat wild blackberries, YUM! Sarah's second excellent suggestion for the day was to wash down the berries with a selection of England's finest beverages such as ales, ciders and wheat beer. It was a lazy afternoon affair with Prince Charles 'Dutchy's Original Organic Wheat Beer' and for Camilla a 'Hobgoblin Oak Matured Cider'. When Rob got home we left to Windsor Castle for dinner however unfortunately the Queen was not at home so instead we walked the streets of Windsor, visited Eton College and dined on fine Italian cuisine.

Day 3 - 29 July

Sunday morning in Walton on Thames reminded us of home with a full English breakfast. Thankfully we were full of beans as we assisted in stripping a one of Sarah's friends cars for spare parts. Sarah's Rover Metro now runs straighter with new tires and a shiny bonnet. We all headed to Hyde Park to start the afternoon in town and after a short stop at speakers corner we escaped the mad ranting of soapbox weilding shouters for Greenwich. With a pit stop at Canary Wharf for Tescos sandwiches we walked up the grassy hill and paid tribute to Captain Cook's statue before entering the observatory. In typical tourist fashion we stood on both sides of the world at once (0 to 360 degrees longditude) before marvelling at the original maritime time pieces such as the first timepieces and chronographs.

ROB AND SARAH ON THE LINE

It was ale o'clock so back on the tube to Soho we went in search of a 'dinky' English pub with traditional cask ales and cider. What a great end to a super day with friends.

Day 4 - 30 July

Changing of the Guard would today be our first tourist adventure. We made it just in time as the procession wound around Queen Victoria Memorial and behind the fence of Buckingham Palace. Having now witnessed a couple of Guard Changing ceremonies throughout Europe we feel confident in saying that this ceremony is a real treat to enjoy. The sunshine was out and we could feel the buzz move through the crowd as the masses gathered to listen to the band play.

We set a brisk pace to escape the now dispersing crowd across to Green Park Station and like lightening flashed across town to the British Museum. There were numerous displays which our appreciation of the artefacts and exhibits was substantially enhanced due to having recently visited many of the historical sites in Italy and Greece. After spending over an hour marvelling at the Egyptian collection of mummies and tomb treasures a trip to Egypt should be on the cards in the future certainly. Some of the collections in the Museum are outstanding and for one we are pleased to say we have seen first hand finds such as the Rosetta Stone which unlocked so much history for us all.

Now that we were completely saturated with information we felt the excitement of another West End production was in order to calm the nerves. Unfortunately Les Miserables was sold out save a few 'Restricted View' seats so we opted for the hilarious new Monty Python production 'Spamalot'. Given that we had a couple of hours up our sleeves we headed out to Notting Hill in order to take our first ride on a double decker bus and visit the famous Portabello Road markets. What fun it was to watch the city pass underneath and once we had arrived we found the town of Notting Hill charming. Sainsbury sandwiches, with a much needed enhancement of smoked salmon, was enjoyed on the bus ride back to West End. Spamalot proved even funnier than could possibly have been expected, such a laugh our sides split.

Day 5 - 31 July

As of yesterday Camilla has read the first two lines of the new Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, only making us more determined to find Platform 9 3/4 at Kings Cross Station. Thankfully we were able to avoid suspicion when taking photos of blank walls between the platforms (we suspect we are not the first). Now hungry we made our way to the Natural History Museum and soaked up the sun with the locals whilst having a picnic lunch of Sainsbury's finest sandwiches (AGAIN) and toffy cookies. You can imagine how busy a sunny patch of grass outside a museum full of dinosaurs can get during the first week of school holidays.

As has been repeated a number of times by Steve's Mum, we have in our minds the fact that when he was a young boy he declared his undying love for all dinosaurs and wished to marry one if possible. Things turned out rather differently (lucky Camilla, or more so lucky Steve). At the sight of all the skeletons our imaginations were ignited as we dashed between huge femurs and sharp claws. Saving time in the day for the Science Museum required us to leave the Natural History Museum a bit prematurely yet we weren't dissappointed.

Amidst the extensive collections of world firsts in engineering and science were 1000's of detailed explanations regarding the birth of steam engines, ships, rockets etc. Everything that moves or beeps from X-Ray machines to rocket ships, industrial steam engines for mining, a dissected boeing 747 fuselage and an original WWII spitfire all within our reach ('please do not touch'). Camilla found the first ever electrocardiograph (ECG) particularly interesting and noted the few similarities with todays MUCH more advanced systems.

To top off a great day we were indulged by Sarah and Rob with a traditional British / New Zealand / Australian BBQ in their courtyard before poor Rob had to retire from the festivities to complete a uni assignment, ouch. We really have immensely enjoyed London and thoroughly appreciate Rob and Sarah's generosity and friendship. We look forward to returning the favour in Sydney soon.

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Destination 1 - Strasbourg (3+ u-turns later)

Strasbourg has two crowning features we were in search of, their gothic cathedral which rivals all others in sheer height (142m) and adornments on the facade, and Little France; which is a network of locks, cobblestone streets, 15th century 1/2 wood houses with bowing walls and cafes.

At the 6 o'clock chime of the church bells we left the sunny evening behind us as we had a long drive ahead to Luxembourg. A vital teastop in a wheat field to enjoy the sunset calmed us before searching for the campsite, location unknown.

Destination 2 - Luxembourg (u-turns unknown...)

We drove and drove and drove before finally pitching the tent 20 minutes before the next day. There was a benefit to staying so close to town as we packed up early and were able to explore town during sunrise. Feeling enthusiastic for the final visit of a European city we headed into Luxembourg at around 7am. Shrotly after leaving the car parked in a prime location we walked a short way before Steve realised the camera battery had died.

Seeing this cute little capital without photographic equipment was not an option so Camilla remained in the sun on a bench while Steve ran back to the car. On his return he found to his horror a damsel in distress. Poor Camilla was standing on the park bench surrounded by a pack of hungry wolves. It was difficult to tell from her vantage point at such a height what exact breed of yapping chihuahua they were!

A cappucino and croisant was the only medicine for such a fright and pennance for Steve's dessertion in a time of need. Full of energy we explored the streets and walked to the palace, stocked up at the farmers market, admired the Spanish fortifications carved into the rock and viewed the village below from the city perimeter. Although it was only a short visit it we found Luxembourg to be a delightfully picturesque city to conclude our european site seeing adventure.

Our final objectives for this stage of the trip seemed simple. Find Frankfurt Hahn airport, confirm the car dropoff location, settle in accommodation nearby and use a washing machine. Clearly our fundemental assumption that Hahn airport is in Frankfurt led us astray as it is actually about 90km south west of the city. To add to our confusion the freeway detour for works took us past the correct turnoff, argh! Finally, to ease our concerns we found that Sohren, the only reasonable sized village near Hahn didn't have a laundromat.

Thankfully, our delightful family run hotel owner offered their sunny backyard to dry out the tent, helped with a load of washing and was perfectly positioned next to the quaint traditional German guesthaus and restaurant Camilla had her eye on for dinner. We feasted (understatement) sitting in the sunny courtyard eating and drinking as we reminisced with delight at the wonderfully friendly people, diverse culture, spectacular sights and fabulous food we have shared in Europe.

France, Luxembourg & Germany remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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After a heavy night of rain our campsite now resembled an extension of lake Geneva. Undeterred we set about organising ourselves out of the mud with our sights firmly set on a chateau in the Burgundy region of France.

In the lovely town of Beaune we found the tourist office to be helpful yet the attendant staunchly refused to make a few calls on our behalf to secure accommodation. It was left to Steve to again practise his french and was warmly laughed at by our chosen receptionist. Although many of the local establishments were full (or exorbitantly pricey) thankfully our first choice from the brochure was free, well available at least...

Chateau Challanges is a resplendent 18th century manor house set on 15 acres of parkland and gardens. To our great delight our room was decked out in typical french period furniture, upholstery and wall paper. We felt more french than ever just standing in the room.

It was a very hot afternoon so our first priority was to have a swim, before a classic impoverished backpacker selfcatered meal of soup, bread and tea overlooking the vineyards at sunset. Over the coming 2 days we spent our time reading LOTR, exploring Beaune, indulging in regional wine and filling ourselves with buffet breakfasts.

This was a magical last fling to send off our time in continental Europe topped off by receiving phonecalls from Camilla's best friend and parents.

Beaune remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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The campsite was average by European standards which we have become accustomed to, however it was well positioned by the lake and afforded a short drive into the heart of Geneva.

We spent the afternoon mixing sightseeing with restocking on supplies, in particular more gas and a teatowel, to cook tea and then wipe down the implements before the next round. Geneva is nicely set out with a sweeping boulavarde complete with trams and exorbitant shopping; much of which we cannot resist looking at then muttering under our breath what a waste of money but oh how it would look sweet on my wrist...

A quick visit to the church and stroll through the pedestrian arcades and that was about all the 'city' we could handle so we ran for greener pastures in the botanical gardens. Dear Geneva, we pique niqued in your botanical gardens unauthorised and we are not sorry, please change your policy at the first convenience as it would attract additional visitors to your lovely gardens, sincerely The Halls. A few chapters of middle earth, poor Frodo, Gandalf and the rest of the Fellowship of the Ring what tribulations they endure.

Back at the campsite it was time to experiment. Who said that selfcaterers should not enjoy the warmth of fresh popcorn on a stormy afternoon. After finding that the oil has now permanently burnt to the bottom of the pan we tried to enjoy the soft fluffy morcels which was easy to do. The rest of the afternoon was spent sitting in the car reading LOTR as the rain came down in sheets. Steve took a moment to eat one of the miscellaneous berries hanging over the fence and thankfully woke up the next day without ailment.

In order to escape the clutches of another city we found our way around the lake, past the United Nations Place (for the second time) and out into the French countryside. All we had was the trusty Lonely Planet to guide us on our lofty quest for Burgundy.

Switzerland has been jam packed with natural wonders, hidden gems and good friends. We will be back, hopefully sooner rather than later.

Geneva remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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We have been to many mountain environments yet cannot get enough so we decided to make a short detour via Chamonix in France before heading to Geneva. This may have been influenced by the fact that we have been craving the food a little, in part the ease of using the little French we know and most importantly because we are here anyway so why not.

Chamonix - Vallee Blanche est tres formidable - 18 - 20 July

Regardless of our surrounds, once we arrived in Chamonix we were interested in little else than relaxing by our perfect campsite in the forest, going shopping for muesli, cheese and salmon and most importantly admiring the glaciers which can be seen from every avenue. Day 1 was spent as mentioned above without variation except for an incredibly loud thunder storm to lullaby us to slumber. Today, 20 July we topped our mountain experiences yet again with a magical adventure.

We started our walk from Le Mont in the valley at 1054m aiming our sights at Les Pyramides on the Bosson Glacier at 1890m. This seems like a reasonable stroll up the mountain path for around 2.5 hours, yet the most difficult aspect of the walk was peeling ourselves away from each vantage point as they appeared between the trees.

Climbing higher we were enjoying the sting of exercise after yesterday evenings indulgence of beer, wine and smoked salmon and blue cheese sandwiches (the later prepared out of the back of the car under another spectacular glacial further up the valley). Our destination at Les Pyramids was reached in the good company of a German teacher living in France teaching German (if you catch our drift). Steve spent his final gasps of breath trying to establish what small-talk basics his language skills allowed. In the meantime Camilla had selected the perfect lunch position to have a stunning view of the sheer cracks and crevasses in the glacier.

During our time near the ice stream we were lucky enough to witness the marvel of a car sized hunk of ice breaking from the mass and crashing into the rock below. As if this environment does not present itself as a hostile place, a thunder storm erupted as suddenly as the fall of ice and we found ourselves surrounded by the rolling sounds as we descended through the clouds, sun shower and forest back to the safety of the internet cafe where we now sit. Chamonix has been the sophisticated, beautiful and challenging finale to our alpine experiences on this trip, and what a finale it has been, bravo bravo.

Note: To all readers, we are ecstatic to be featured on the front page of the Travellerspoint website, thanks for your interest in our escapades and kind comments during the trip so far.

Chamonix remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Following endless bends in the winding rounds we arrived in Tasch and pitched base camp by the river next to the train shuttle to Zermatt. In the afternoon Camilla relaxed listening to her iPod, drank wine and ate her share of the cheese whilst watching Steve scramble through the brambles up the very steep hill behind the camp site. After a staggering 30 verticle metres it seemed self evident that the additional 2000m would have to be left for another day.

Zermatt - 17 July

We held off on purchasing our tickets to go to the highest lifted point in Europe until we confirmed a clear view from the warmth of our sleeping bags. Bingo, we could see blue skies smiling right back as well as our final destination a mere 2500m above us up the valley. The short cogwheel train trip to Zermatt gave us enough time to overcome the excitement of seeing the Matterhorn for the first time. Although it was only a quick glimps there is no mistaking the curves and rugged beauty of the Matterhorn.

Itching to get higher we dashed through town and jumped on the first cable car to Furi, then Trockenersteg and finally without hesitation to Gletscher Palast, Matterhorn Glacier Paradise at a whopping 3883m. Making friends with a Canadian family we swapped photographic equipment and hints regarding travel in our respective countries. Interestingly Grandma Canada was previously a nurse at Concord Hospital among other hospitals throughout all of Australia. At the top of Europe it is difficult to articulate (partly because the air is so thin up here) just how wonderful it is to be young and healthy living our dreams and seeing such remarkable environments.

Camilla had devised our descent along one of the longer routes which would take us beneath the Matterhorn, via the glaciers and to some of the best vantage points in the Swiss Alps.

On the trail we spent nearly three hours walking the rugged landscape. Beneath our feet were shards of slate, shale, granite and other rocks in various colours and compositions. Impressive boulders the size of houses were scattered as if thrown by a giant all around us. As we glanced up from the difficult path we caught the changing wig of clouds the Matterhorn wore throughout the day.

At the end of the navigatable glacier cut valley we ascended sharply for about 100 metres looking out over Zermatt, numerous glacials and valleys, and most importantly an awesome tea stop. At Schwarzsee Paradise we admired the tiny chapel by the lake then descended below the chairlifts deep into the forest to Furi. Our legs were burning and thankfully we made one of the last chairlifts back to Zermatt. Our reward, not that we necessarily deserve one, was a hot pot of Cafe du Pont special Fondue. We will write little here regarding the Swiss national recipe for fear of retribution, however it can be said that we soo eargerly devoured the thick melted cheese dish that it may not have assisted in us getting a restful night so sorely needed.

Having now visited so many stunning mountain environments throughout the trip our only debate is which will we return to first during the ski season.

Zermatt remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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With a little more confusion over our wanting to extend the car rental we rescheduled our visit to Bern and decided today was the day. We were pleased to spend some time in the Swiss capital as it is gorgeous, fortunately it does not feel like a capital city. Our visit included giggling at the fountain depicting a giant devouring young children like Swiss chocolates, admiring the covered walkways and beautifully kept old town set in the bend of the emerald coloured river.

We headed to the opposite bank to say hello to the bears and dodged the buldosers and workman on our way back to the fresh food market. How can you resist freshly made ravioli, really. Our priority for the afternoon was to make our way from this beautiful capital to the heart of the Swiss alps in Berner Oberland. As if there isn't enough distraction for a driver in Europe, when we approached Interlarken and caught a glimps of the snow capped mountains in the background a Red Bull stunt plane competing in the Air Challenge raced just over our head. After a short stop by the glacial torrents we found our campsite in Grindelwald with an unobstructed view of the North Face on the great Eiger Mountain. This looming 2 km high wall of rock and ice became the perfect backdrop for our breakfasts and dinners for the following few days, AWESOME!

Day 1 - Jungfraujoch - 14 July

As impoversihed backpackers and determined to beat the tour buses to the highest railway station in Europe we opted for the early bird special ticket to Jungfraujoch. Luckily our campsite was situated only 5 minutes walk through the farmland to the funicular railway station so we enjoyed our sleep in till 5.30am. On the train we began talking with a lovely German couple named Veronika and Matthew who are currently living in Interlarken. Our first stop was to change trains before entering the long tunnel through the mountain. The first viewpoint was a window situated half way up the North Face, so we checked the tent was still there and it was.

When we reached the top at Jungfraujoch and scrambled up the snow to the second view point we were blown away by the near endless view of the Swiss Alps and Europes longest glacier, the Grosser Aletschgletscher at near 25 kms long. Swapping cameras back and forth between the two couples was a welcome relief from the far more difficult task of taking shots at arms length.

We ventured deep into the glacial man made ice cave to admire the ice carvings, explore the tunnels and enjoy sliding on our boots as if ice skating. The greater challenge was to come as we headed outdoors for the hour long hike across the upper glacier to the mountain hut around the corner. Puffing and panting in the thin air we were continually commenting to one another on the spectacular vistas. The pair of hiking poles Steve has been diligent in carrying since Austria came in very handy on the slippery snow.

We were determined that at reaching our highest altitude ever we would brew our own cuppa to celebrate. Unknowingly we were relying on the electric starter which at this height was rendered useless (for some reason?). Unperturbed Steve asked everyone who passed for a light and was pleased to find that few serious alpine hikers smoke. As for the tea cravings, we were saved by Matthew who came to the rescue by purchasing a lighter as a souvenir gift. The tea was possibly our best yet as we sat on top of Europe watching a small avalanche in the distance, a plane make repeated practice landings on the ice and hearing a large block of ice crack off the cliffs above us (not too close thankfully).

On our way through the mountain back down the train stopped for 20 minutes without explanation. Almost the moment it stopped Steve thought it appropriate to make jokes about spending the night then almost immediately following he got the noddies and was quiet. Veronika and Matthew suggested walking down to Alpiglen traversing the bottom of the North Face. What a wonderful walk to end the day (1.5 hours) with great company. By 6 pm that evening we could barely keep our eyes open so it was an early night for little alpinists.

Day 2 - Into the Mountains Again (Literally) - 15 July

Determined to make today relaxing and interesting after the excitement and exertion on Jungfraujoch we planned only 3 activities. First on the list was Gletshcerschlucht Gorge. The walk was approximately 1 km each way along a narrow suspended walkway over the raging glacial river below. We savoured the chilling wind that rushed through the gorge before heading out into the contrasting still and hot morning.

Back in the car we drove the short but scenic route to the adjacent valley of Lauterburnnen. The valley is home to one of the worlds only accessible glacial waterfalls inside a mountain. Trummelbachfall is a series of 10 enormous cascades falling over 150 metres with viewing platforms and tunnels carved into the rock. Our shot below does not include any water however the short glimpses of light beams caught the rising vapour which hung in the air. Seeing and hearing the awesome power of water first hand helps us understand how the surrounding valleys and mountains have been shaped over time. At any given second there is a mere 20,000 litres of water pouring over the edge carrying almost 20,000 tonnes of rock granules per year into the lakes below. The maths multiplies over millions of years to be a significant force in our world.

After a hot lunch in the moist spongy forest glen we raced down to Interlarken for the finals of the Red Bull Air Challenge. Battling the crowds initially to find a peephole through the fence was given up in favour of a quiet spot in a paddock high on a hill overlooking the whole of Interlarken, the airport where the race was being held and across the lake. While it is easy to admire the skill and courage of the pilots as they dodge and weave through air filled obstacles only metres from the ground we are still happy with our day jobs thank you very much.

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On our way back into town Steve made the critical decision to ensure Camilla is fully prepared for all that life could throw at her by selecting the ultimate Swiss army knife. We walked around the remaining fortifications high on the hill then went on to admire the wooden bridges with paintings in the eves, including the famous rebuilt 16th century bridge that burnt down. Impressed with the complex river management system still in use we finished the day with a multicultural dinner. We call it this because the vegetables were from Switzerland, goulash from Czech Republic, German dumplings, cooker purchased in France and gas from Austria.

Day 1 - Lucerne 12 July

Our hope for thismorning was to be able to see Mount Pilatus clear of clouds in brilliant sunshine, and we weren't dissapointed. One of the great benefits of campgrounds is that they often have good discounts on local attractions. Today we spoilt ourselves with the 'Golden Roundtrip' ticket.

The adventure began with an hour and a half ride on a 1902 steam paddleboat from our campsite across the lake to the base of Pilatus. In perfect condition the entire engine bay was open to inspect with the enormous steel piston rods and shafts churning silently. Communication with the captain on the bridge was also in the days of old with the horn and lever. The highlight was still to come with a 40 minute ride on the worlds steepest cogwheel railway (48 degrees) which took us to almost 3000 metres.

It was very cold and windy conditions yet we enjoyed crystal clear views of the surrounding mountains, the city of Lucerne and lake below. Finding a suitable precipice following our exploration of the summit we fell into reading LOTR and watching the clouds soar up the mountain and over our heads. We returned to the thicker air below via 2 very long cable cars and a trolley bus back into town. Pilatus is highly recommended and the railway is an unforgettable fantastic feat of engineering (seen in the background).

Our evening entertainment had been planned in advance, well in advance. It was made clear by Camilla prior to our departure from Sydney that wherever we are in the world, we WILL find an English cinema for the premiere of Harry Potter V, Order of the Pheonix. The movie was worth the wait and we are now even moreso looking forward to the release of the 7th and final book.

To top off a magical day we ate dinner with the swans down by the river next to the famous bridges. Camilla didn't make friends with the swans so easily today (probably as she would not share dinner), as they made obvious with their repeated hissing until they got bored and drifted downstream. Lucerne is a must see on any visit to Switzerland as we have thoroughly enjoyed every aspect of this gorgeous little town.

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We awoke today excited at the afternoon rendezvous with our good friends Andre and Therese in Basel. Our meeting point was at 4:30pm underneath the 15 metre tall mechanical 'hammering man', you can't miss it they said and that was certaily the case. We arrived in town a mere 5 1/2 hours early and decided to take in the sights. After a quick pitstop for a nature break Steve found a handbag left in the cubicle. Our first introduction to Basel was a walking tour between the closed police station at the railstation before making our way across town to the weekend depot. On our tour we took in the sights such as the frescoed town hall, river and interesting transit boats, numerous clocks and a small food market before retiring from the rain to MacDonalds (our 4th visit in as many months, tut tut but oh soo good). Luckily the staff did not mind two soaked travellers setting up camp to read some LOTR and add our own assortment of tomato and cucumber to there tried and proven recipes.

Standing underneath the hammering man all of our travel weary worries and tension melted at the sight of our friends smiling faces. How funny to travel for so many months in unfamiliar places before finally seeing someone from home (even though they live here). Dinner was a fabulous affair cooked with real sized pots and pans, topped off with great conversations, endless catch-up regarding recent travel adventures from all of us and the chance to meet Therese's very friendly younger brother Robin.

Over the coming days our mornings started with a wonderful assortment of Swiss cold meats, Swedish caviar, local cheeses and all things good. On our first day we were shown Andre's playground (the ruined castle on the hill behind his parents house), enjoyed a picnic in a paddock during some wonderful sunshine and a driving tour through the Alsace in France, then Switzerland, France etc. about 6 times. On one of the entries we finally had our passports checked. Steve asked for an entry stamp and was denied on the grounds of they didn't have one! After dinner we sat up late discussing the light topics of war and politics in Switzerland and the world.

The following day Andre and Therese needed to drive to Zurich to secure their new apartment lease, which was as good a reason as any for us to revisit this great city. As it was raining we took a tour across the lake on the car ferry and drove high up into the hills for a spectacular view. Junghauskeller was the restaurant of choice, the best Swiss sausage house in Zurich (possibly the world), where we showed our appreciation and gratitude to both of them for their hospitality. Given that we don't understand Swiss German at the best of times, let alone in a crowded restaurant, Andre requested unnoticed a souvenir Junghauskeller beer mug for Steve. Thankyou Andre, it will be well used over the years.

Walking down the famous shopping street, nibbling on champagne chocolate truffles, without hordes of people it is easy to see why so many people love this slick professional and elegant city on the lake. Having returned to Basel in the afternoon we toured Andre's family vineyard to taste the very young, sour and unripe grapes before settling in for our final dinner together.

We really do hope to see both of them either in Zurich or Sydney before too long and will think of them whenever trimming a sail.

Time with Friends remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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We would have done as all other tourists do in Leichtenstein and simply walked the small pedestrian shopping district however a number of obsticles made it very slow going. How lucky we were to find that this tiny little itsy bitsy country is a key stage in the Silveretta Classic car rally. The obsticles mentioned earlier were the procession of vintage and veteran sports coupes including Austin Healey, Alfa Romeo, Aston Martin, Bentley, Bugatti, Buick, Bristol AC Cobra, Bug (VW), Corvette, Fiat, Jaguar, Lotus, MG A & Bs, Mercedes, Porsche, Triumph, and a Volvo. After a few photos (A FEW!) we feel that our shopping trip in Leichtenstien was well out of our budget.

We needed a tea to wash away the lead petrol fumes so we drove off in the opposite direction to the stream of classic cars still coming into town and found a waterfall on the side of a mountain overlooking the valley. Revived it was time to drive along a winding mountain pass into Switzerland making our way towards Zurich. After endurring our first traffic jam in months we set up camp at the very busy Lake Zurich campsite looking back at the city from the western shores. It was a long, hot and tiring day having driven more than 340 km in 4 countries so we had an early dinner and went to bed early at 10pm. Just as our heads hit the pillow we were startled by the sound of a massive explosion!

Ordinarily we would have been scared however the simultaneous eruption of dodgy 80's music from the speakers surrounding Zurich lake it could mean only one thing, fireworks. Our welcome to Switzerland party had obviously begun without us! Within seconds we were scurrying through the campsite pulling on cloths and cameras for a magical fireworks display across the lake.

Zurich - 7 July

Our day in Zurich started on the bus before walking thruogh the deserted streets, a quick stop in a well stocked model railway shop then settled by the lake to watch the swans. All around us and throughout the streets were festival stalls, open air bars and restaurants, fun park rides etc. It wasn't until then did we realise that we had arrived in Zurich in the midst of one of Switzerlands largest tri-annual festivals.

We mixed up our time between stopping at the shows, smelling all the wonderful food stalls, window shopping in the classy shops and taking in the beautiful old city streets before lunch by the lake. Some of the highlights included breakdancing, swiss military helicopter and stunt plane shows, high diving, dragon boat races under the bridges of the river, feeding the swans, a bit of LOTRs under a willow tree, and a final spectacular fireworks display from the comfort of the campsite private park.

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Nuremburg - 2 July

We have found that when the tourist information bureau needs to look up where the closest camp site is, it usually means it is out of the way. Even though it turned out the indicated tram line was not ideal, the necessary route took us through Hitlers military procession grounds. The light rain and a menacing sky excentuated this unfriendly location. Thankfully our first German campsite owner was delightful.

After pitching tent between showers and a quick bite to eat in the common room we headed back into town via the much closer train station to explore. Camilla created a comprehensive tourist walk using the town map taking us past numerous churches, fountains and the Australian Icecream Shop. Understaning that much of Nuremburg was destroyed in WWII it is lucky that some of the historic buildings remain intact, whilst much of the rebuilt areas remind us of a cross between Brisbane and Chatswood.

After finishing a toast to another new country to visit we walked the shiny cobblestone streets alongside the city fortifications in a beautiful sunshower. Ducking outside the safety of the medieval city wall we were rewarded with a view of a thick vivid rainbow crowning the Opera House.

Satishfied with our afternoon in Nuremburg we organised a car for the following day, headed back to camp for a basic dinner, received a brief lesson on Nazi politics from a Swedish history teacher and slept as only exhausted travellers can.

Romantishe Strasse (Romantic Road) through Bavaria - Day One - 3 July

It was a nice surprise to find that we received a free upgrade to a four door VW Golf even thought our booking specifics were somewhat lost in translation. Unfortunately, after packing our gear into the car (still amazed that it all fits in two backpacks) we were hurried off the train station parking before we could get our bearings. With maps in hand the result was an unplanned circular, then spiral, then multiple u-turn tour of Nuremburg.

We finally found the No. 6 to Shillingsfurst and breathed a sigh of relief. We attempted to determine where the 'schloss' (castle) was located from a map on the tourist billboard. It just so happened that we were standing in the castle carpark! After a pitstop at the backery and supermarket for supplies Camilla offered to drive whilst attempting to dismantle the steering wheel and relocate on the right. After some minor confusion we were steadily underway, what an experience to drive on the WRONG side of the road for the first time. After a short time Camilla drove us into a field (deliberately) where we stopped for tea just before the heavens opened.

Feuchtwagen was our next stop and already we were feeling more romantic! Driving past the sentry tower at the top of the hill, and possible through the pedestrian only parts of town by accident, we exited under the little aches and onto Dinkelsbuhl. Walking around the streets of this interesting little town we enjoyed climbing onto the ramparts where we passed a number of the 16 guards towers. The houses in Dinkelsbuhl have fantastic manicured gardens. It was raining at the time which made the entire town shine, as well as keep away those pesky tourists that get in our way (assuming we are not pesky also).

Drying off in the car we made our way through the Ries Valley, created 15 million years ago by a 1km wide meteorite which left a 25km wide crater. Thankfully we were late for that fireworks display. In the centre of the crater is the impressive walled village of Nordlingen, one of the few towns in Europe where visitors can view the town from the fully intact rampart walls. Again Camilla effectively nagivated the visitors walking tour (except for a few of what she calls 'Necessary Detours').

As the evening drew on it was time to find a camp site which was not as easy as we first thought. Zipping through the delightful Harburg, crossing the river 3 times, asking 2 guest houses for directions, getting lost in someones backyard (literally), then finally turned away by the campsite owner as the patch of grass adjacent to the river was deemed 'too wet', continued to Donaeworth, shot through the same intersection from all possible directions, caught on a small section of the Autobahn, we finally found ourselves in a nice little wheat field where we could see through the campsite hedge to the soft grass patch awaiting us. Total distance for the day including all detours = 235km.

Dachau Detour - Day 2 - 4 July

Today we planned our departure from the Romantic Road to to Dachau, near Munich. We spent the whole day at Gedenkstatte Concentration camp with a comprehensive audioguides to help with our concerted attempt to learn of the attrocities which occurred on these grounds. There is little we can write here to fully communicate how chilled to the bone with grief and horror we felt at how human beings can behave. Our visit will be remembered always not just for the ferocious winds and dark clouds that accompanied us through the bleek compound, but mostly for the knowledge and saddness we take with us through life.

Back on the Romantishe Strasse - Day 3 - 5 July

Having found the campsite more easily than the night before, we awoke beside Annasee lake to the sound of yacht mast ropes clicking and slapping. A short jaunt into the forest for tea and strudel for breakfast gave us full bellies until lunch which was also a formal roadside affair admiring King Ludwig II's masterpiece.

Neushwanstein castle tour opened our eyes to the sheer decadence possible when you are an opera obsessed, swan loving mad king without a budget. The short stroll up to Mariebruck bride afforded one of the greatest views of Bavaria, only just short of our splendid windy campsite on the lake at Brunnen. To conclude our short yet enriching journey through Germany we had some local beverages and read LOTR (Lord of the Rings) until late into the evening.

The Romance is Over - Day 4 - 6 July

For 4 days in a row now we have been able to pack up camp only moments before the rain came and thismorning was no exception. First stop for the morning was the pretty town of Fussen with matchstick fountains where 100kg bolders rotate sickeningly metres above our heads then to backery hop down to the river. Leaving town we stopped at the Lech falls where we saw more water flow per second than anywhere else so far. After a small navigation glitch (gap in corresponding maps) we simply decided to head south via Fern Pass and 'turn right' in Austria. It sounded simple enough, and once on the correct road to Leihctenstien we settled into the rhythm of freeway driving.

Travelling through numerous tunnels in the hills it was in a moment where to Steves absolute horror he gasped and we both witnessed the vehicle behind doing almost twice the legal speed limit (80km/h) in a tunnel with oncoming traffic (single lanes). Only metres from our car the driver locked up the brakes, fishtailed violently across both lanes in the tunnel before flipping onto its roof and narrowly missing our rear. Before this scene fully registered in our minds we had exited the tunnel and unable to safely turn back or stop. We hope the driver and any passengers were not hurt.

Germany remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Watching the rolling hills, thick evergreen forests and small farmland lakes pass by the window over the hours was enriched by a number of attempts to read LOTR without getting ill. Camilla needed to remind Steve at the bus stop in Prague that you cannot judge a book by the editorial notes left at the dank, smelly and often overlooked bookshelf behind the toilet receptical. Sorry, a bit left of field, Prague looked pretty grim from where we were standing.

As with all similar scenarios on this trip a spoon full of Metro helps the busstation go down. 15 minutes later and we popped our heads out of the underground network to be greeted by traditional blacksmiths hammering bells into shape below the national museum at the end of the avenue. Whew.

Organising our fully equipped apartment only 10 steps to the river and behind the National Theatre was effortless in the helpful tourist office. 'Hiking' down the main road we had no idea yet of what lay in store around the corner into the old town or what may greet us from across the Vltava river. Eagerly dropping our bags and equiping ourselves for an explore we were out the door within seconds.

Standing across from Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in the world, with the Charles Bridge to our right we knew that this city had a lot of secrets to discover.

Dragging ourselves away from the river bend we delved deep into the heart of the old town, crossing numerous cobblestone streets and dodging trams left right and centre to find the famous astronomical clock.

In the old town square we admired the incredibly bright and colourful mansions lit by late afternoon sun, watched the buskers playing music and the many tourists starting to settle down to the evening meal.

Knowing the good food at reasonable prices is always found a couple of streets back from the tourist hotspots we decided on dinner in the small courtyard behind the old town cathedral attached to a jazz club established in a 15th century cellar. Now that our love affair with hearty meat meals and Czech beer is well ingrained we ate pork shoulder with potato pancakes and beef goulash.

It is possible to wander the streets of Prague without fatigue for many hours however we realised that the only true compliment necessary after such a good meal was gelato. Where else in the world would you find a harpist playing Pacebels Canone in your local cremeria.

Day 1 - 30 June

The bakery did not see us coming as we dove for cover behind the pastry shelf for breakfast. Unfortunately we are not carrying a laptop with satellite connection so our first stop after breakfast was the @Cafe for a quick blog fix and juice to wash down the pastries. By the time we had surfed the www and chatted to all you fine folks the temptation to have a meal at the chinese restaurant outside the window was overwhelming.

Our objective for the afternoon may have been a little ambitious, visit the worlds largest castle complex. Thankfully they know that even the most hardened and diligent tourists with no real interest in anything at all could not possibly walk around this vast and gorgeous complex in less than 4 hours. We had three so were grateful that the long visit ticket would be valid for two days. Without further adue Camilla rushed back to the side of more handsome of the two sentry guards you have ever seen giggling like a schoolgirl.

After the blushing subsided (Camilla, not the guard) we entered the St Vitus gothic cathedral (one of the largest of its kind) we stood in silent amazement at the vast cavity that lay before us. The intricacy of the stained glass is unparalleled and a free climb up the 287 steps to the top of the bell tower was the icing on the cake. Having gawked at Prague from such a vantage point it is difficult to imagine any other city beside Venice or Paris will remain in our minds so prominently.

The rest of our visit on the first day included the old palace, St Georges basilica and convent erected over 1,200 years above more than 120 tombs from ancient times, the golden lane, guard tower and dungeon and finally the portrait gallery. Exhausted we handed by the garrulous (similar to our blog), tangent stricken audioguide we headed down the numerous stairs through the cobbled streets and across the Charles Bridge in the late afternoon for supper.

In true medieval style Camilla had pork goulash in a bread round with pretzel and Steve gnawed on his first Pork Knee (enormous!) shaved horseradish and mustard. Exhausted we headed back for the evening with excitment brewing for our return the following day.

Day 2 - 1 July - Happy New Half Year

Today was commenced with a detour via the old Praha 1st train station where we came across a full blown film set in motion. Nothing too interesting, obviously they are hiding the stars in those big trailers, so we proceeded to the ticket booth to make our decision on where to go. You would think that these sorts of decisions are made well in advance however it has come to us that a trip of this nature is best grown organically. Of course we had in mind that Germany is on the cards tomorrow so it was just a matter of confirming that our desired destination was possible, reasonable etc.

Back through the cobbled streets of the old town we admired the astronomical clock tower again from a variety of angles through the throngs of tourist buses piling out for a sunny Sunday visit.

No visit to Prague Castle would be complete without enjoying watching the handsome uniformed sentry guards change shift, or so we thought. After blinking at precisely the wrong moment half of the 30 second ceremony was over. Eitherway, it is good to know that when the youngest guard came out looking nervous and a little lopsided there was formal assistance from the guardkeeper to adjust his shining outfit.

Prague Castle had only two major exhibits left for us to enjoy. The story of the Castle complex, which included models, prehistoric remains of wholly mammoths, ancient graves (complete), jewelry, attire and crown jewels. Our second stop was the National Gallery which in comparison to many of the non-permanent exhibits left a little to be desired. On our way out of the castle we visited the gardens and walked down below the imposing cathedral and castle walls to the river below.

We debated for a good 15 seconds how to finish off an experience such as we have had in Prague and decided that it was only fitting to plant ourselves at the trendy Cafe/Restaurant/Bar/Disco/Terrace directly adjacent to the Charles Bridge and across from the castle. With cold drinks in hand we decided at this point that Prague has been such a spectacular highlight in our trip that our future plans will be to revisit in the future when the ground is thick with snow. As we left tonight in a steaming sunshower we know this decision will be one easy to keep.

Prague remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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20 minutes after this pleasant encounter we were kicked off the direct route train and herded onto 1960s buses due to trackwork (our Cesky may lack some finer translations). Without complaint we arrived in Cesky Budojovice on time and had a good hour up our sleeves for two of Steve's most favourite things. A visit to a new country supermarket, and to order the original Budwieser Budvar beer from Budejovice where it originated. The palers, crappier and unfortunately more profitable 'Bud' of the US has been in court battles for over 50 years as to the original but we now know which is the preference.

Onto an old rattler of a train which may have been the same vintage of the bus it was off to Cesky Krumlov. Knowing little of the destination and entirely amused with the carriage full of teenage Czechs making their way back from a school camp Steve dove off the train for 2 more ORIGINAL Buds for the ride. As the train was only a couple of carriages long it was easy to see past the engine at the overgrown grass between the rail sleepers and the encroaching forest.

Cesky Krumlov - 27 June (Arrival)

As the rain started to spit we were unperturbed in our quest for shelter. It is a great feeling to know that if suitable lodgings are not found we will simply aim at the town square at pitch. Finding accommodation in this medieval town was no qualms as every single backpacker from Austria to Eastern Europe comes via Cesky Krumlov. Having met the very cute receptionist, the price of good food and wine, and dumping our bags in fantastic cheap accommodation it is easy to see why.

Cesky Krumlov is a fairytale town nestled below rolling pasture land, in the crook of a fast flowing river below the Czech Republics second largest (and arguably most picturesque) 11th century castle.

Dinner was the typical self catering we often do just after Steve has been carrying the bags for an extended period i.e. throw everything that weighs anything into a pot and heat. Sitting in our 1/4 acre garden overlooking the imposing town cathedral we enjoyed the view of the setting sun and drank to the Czech Republic.

Day 1 - 28 June

Our morning started with a big walk to find some food given that everything that was left ended up the pot previously mentioned. A big walk in Cesky Krumlov (pronounced Cheskie) would infact lead you off well into the adjoining pasture land on the opposite side of the county, instead we use this terminology to describe the continuous 300 metres of walk following the river bends to the rolled cookie store.

In fact the store was more a hole in the wall with yet another very cute (Steve is typing and therefore can put anything he likes!) Czech bakerette. Rolled cookies are baked around a large hot cylinder then dipped in butter and covered with almonds, cinnamon and suger. In retrospect we only needed one but two seemed the right and proper thing to do...

Climbing the winding cobblestone stairs through town to the bridge entrance of the castle we took time to admire the greeting party. In the bear pit there was no less than three... BEARS. What did you think we were going to say? Very cute, certainly cuddly and at a distance as tame as a kitten. No further experiments were made regarding their friendliness.

Straight up the closest vantage point we climbed the 13th-16th century tower (difficult to give an age to many things in Europe from the middle ages as they have frequently been burnt down, redeveloped etc.) Looking like a giant kids playground rocketship the tower has one of the most stunning frescos covering its outer stones. From the top we could see into the distant forests, hills and down to the jigsaw puzzle streets of Krumlov.

At 1:20pm our tour of the Rosenburg castle commenced with the increasingly gorgeous tour guide Camilla. A tour of a medieval castle with no less than 2 beautiful blue eyed, brunette and porcelain skinned Camillas was a treat for Steve. Camilla hung on every word and was suitably distracted by the bearskin rugs, 16th century interior frescos and perfectly maintained period furniture. Near the end of the visit we saw the golden carriage, used once to deliver presents to the pope it was adorned with over 2kgs of leaf gold. The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Masquerade hall with no less than 123 personalities in costume frescoed on all walls.

Now absolutely famished only one Czech traditional meal would suffice. Ordering the Bohemian feast with phesant, millet, potato, smoked bacon, yogurt dressing, saurkraut, beer and a goblet of wine we sat for the best part of the afternoon by the river below the castle (nb: castle tower climbed earlier on the left of the photo below).

Cesky Krumlov has been one of the great stops made on the trip so far and whilst not being a truly accurate and comprehensive cross-section of the entire Czech Republic, we do hope it is a relatively accurate preview of what may be to come.

Cesky Krumlov remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Making haste we arrived at the delayed train just in time to see the 4 security gaurds watch the mechanic emerge from the undercarriage. Putting any strange thoughts out of our mind we boarded the ancient carriage at the end of the train, only to realise later that we could have sat in the first class cabins anyway.

Vienna - 24 June

We only realised later that the first city stop our train made in Vienna within walking distance of our campsite had passed so we made the metro detour via Westbanhoff Station. Metro systems are now thankfully second nature, particularly for Camilla who without hesitation determines our fastest route with the least changes with ease. We relieved two young travellers of their tickets valid for a further 24 hours at a reasonable fee as they were leaving town early and made our way to Huttledorf.

Pitching the tent in the sweltering heat was not something we had imagined doing in Vienna. There was little shade in the large paddock where the other tents were placed, so we made haste then packed for a late afternoon adventure in town. Our adventure started with a complete backtrack of the same trainline to the edge of the Danube Inlet. Confident that the walk to the Danube river was only a few minutes away we set off with MacDonalds icecream in hand and got completely lost.

Taking a u-turn Camilla thought it wise to weigh herself (following Maccas icecream and chips) and was pleased to note that all that lugging of packs and walking has cancelled out some if not all of the French cheese, Italian pizzas and Greek salads. Finding a comfortable spot in the thick grass in one of the beautiful parks with other Viennese locals soaking up the late afternoon sun we knocked up a mushroom rissotto with the portable kitchen. A good night sleep was in order so we headed out to Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) where our home lay waiting.

Day 1 - 25 June

Getting high on opium for breakfast (poppy seed bread) we packed our bags to explore Vienna throughout the day with respite regardless of wanting to sit and drink coffee and eat cake all day. Walking past the major theatres, concert halls and impressive fountains we were lost in the back streets (please note, back streets in Vienna as 6 lanes wide and perfectly positioned between towering architectural gems) we stumbled across the main English book store for the city. As you know we completed our Dan Brown marathon in Italy and were therefore craving some literary inspiration.

On the back cover of our selection there is a priceless quote from the famous author C.S.Lewis 'The englishspeaking world is broken into two categories, those who have read Lord of the Rings, and those who are going to'. Needless to say you can guess that we purchased a Jane Austen masterpiece... kidding, the 1,100page 50th anniversary edition of this great work may, and we are not certain, fit into our packs. If it comes to it we will discard unnecessary clothing, toiletries and survival gear to make room, number one on the hit list is The Lonely Planet.

Lunch was a less than admirable affair although after 3 months without the better burgers of Hungry Jacks it was high time. As we worked off the calories it was a hot time walking in the 34 degree plus heat of summer. Our first notable touristic venture was a visit to the immense gothic cathedral which is surrounded by both modern and renaissance classic buildings.

Onwards we dodged the horsedraw carriages, of which there are literally hundreds, to a smaller ornate church by the name of St Peters. The major drawcard of this little gem was the free Organ concert to demonstrate the accoustics and fine note of a 300 year old instrument. While normally a huge marble cavity is cool, and the reverberations that could be heard from Switzerland would keep anyone attentive, Steve obviously was a little overcome by the heat, Hungry Jacks and excitement of J.R.R Tolkien and unfortunately got the noddies. 'HOW ON EARTH COULD YOU POSSIBLE GET THE NODDIES' Camilla exclaimed as we exited.

Vienna is world renowned as one of the great classical music cities and this comes across at every turn with talented buskers, sprukers in period costume and reverberrating churches. Clearly it would not do to play the impoverished backpacker card at this point so we committed within 30 minutes of each purchase to two impressive programs. Outside the Palace, and almost overcome with heat exhaustion we admired the tickets which were our invitation to be inspired.

An evening with Mozart was held tonight in the Musikverin where the global NYE telecast of the Vienna Philharmonic is held, and tomorrow we would be enjoying a renowned ensemble of opera singers to the NYE program at the Vienna Musikhaus. As you can imagine we were very excited that evening to enter the great hall well known by many as the NYE stage.

Unfortunately they do not keep the floral arrangements in place for the year as one can understand when you see the venue 'dressed' for NYE. The performance was a real treat with a superb female soprano opera singer complimenting wonderful arrangements of some great well known pieces including the infectious Blue Danube waltz to finish. As if arranged by Mozart himself and coordinated by the conductor, mid way through the performance the entire hall shuddered to throaty claps of thunder. As we exited into the cool night air the heavy air reminded us of every great afternoon thunderstorm.

Making our way back to base camp was easy enough and we had the pleasure of meeting a very friendly couple from America, Ryan and Louisie from Texas. Sharing travel stories late into the night we parted ways as the wind picked up and hoped to see them again in the days to come.

Once cocooned in the bombshelter we were glad it was rated for 4 seasons. At one point during the night Steve dove out in his boxer shorts to retighten the guidelines as the wind whipped and lashed at the tent till early morning. Our outdoor entry mat (the Red Carpet as it is lovingly called) was later found at the opposite side of the campground yet no damage was done.

Day 2 - 26 June

Without a full compliment of clean clothing (primarily clean undies were scarce) it was time to catch up with the mundane. Around 11:30am we rescued Ryan and Louisie from outside the closed minimarket offering what little we had in the pantry. It has been a long time since we entertained anyone other than each other so it was a great delight to share a meal with new friends. As it turned out Asparagus soup and 3 burenwurst sausages (rather larger than a thin BBQ sanger) with bread is more than sufficient for 4 people.

Blogging is now categorised at the equivalent level of importance as no clean underwear. We found a reasonable @Cafe and got our thoughts out before moving onto a classic must-do for visitors to Vienna. Cafe Sperl was established in 1882 in the classic Viennese coffee house decor. It has been maintained with the element of authenticity difficult to find in newer establishments. Had Steve been wearning spats and a bowlers hat with Camilla on his arm in gloves and hat it would not have been out of place against the rich dark woods, red velour upholstery, bevelled glass windows or bronze fixtures. Viennese iced coffee, chocolate marmalade gateau and Lord of the Rings page 1 were enjoyed simultaneously.

Dinner was less of a traditional affair however as AustralAsians it is difficult to go more than a couple of weeks without a fried rice fix. More importantly we had been strolling around town all afternoon and knew that the Chinese could prepare the meal in time for us to get to the concert.

Early for the evening, we strolled around the war memorial and watched the trams go by before stalking one of the musicians to the hall. We assumed if he was still on his way, we arn't late yet. Vienna Musikhaus rivals anything we have ever seen for the prototypical classic renaissance entertainment venue. You could not more accurately recreate the grandure of a room such as the Grosse Salle where the performance was to be held. With cameras in hand we entered along with the other 1798 guests for the spectacle. Camilla was able to capture just moments before opening the performers-eye-view as it were of this grand room

As Opera performances go the evening was not only the best we have ever seen, it is the only one we have seen live in full to our recollection. It may become a more regular event, however the bar has certainly been set very high. What a stunning performance from the duet Soprano Diva and Barratone who have been working together for more than 30 years. To hear a womans voice in perfect pitch fill every crevass of a room of this size is a marvel to behold.

Leaving Vienna the following morning for our next destination we had been given somewhat average advice. Arrive at the sudbahnhof station and you should be right exclaimed the campsite attendant. After purchasing our tickets we had less than 20 minutes to cross Vienna to Westbanhof. This would otherwise be impossible if it weren't for the direct tram line. Obviously still on a high from the previous evening Camilla was humming the blue danube and accurately observed that 'everything in Vienna has fantastic acoustics, even the trams!'

Vienna remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Salzburg trolley bus network (buses attached like trams to overhead electric cables) is the most comprehensive we have seen. Having chosen our campsite from the 3 within a few minutes ride of town we were pleased to find that the site had a filtered view of the fortress and rooftops.

With a threatening sky full of dark clouds we made haste to pitch the Embassy. In the scuffle of pegs, strings, rocks and flysheets Steves finger made use of itself in a way not ordinarily recommended. Fingers, like Lonely Planet publications are not the best thing for hammering in tent pegs. Oozing quite a bit of blood he smiled and asked for a nurse (to finish pitching and packing the tent, not fix the finger).

Salzburg - 22 June

After a quick meal and checking the 999 satellite TV channels (only a few in English) the sky cleared somewhat and we headed into Salzburg. Walking through the old town we admired the popular shopping promenades, looked at the facade of Mozart's birthplace then retreated from the returning rain and thunder for a hot chocolate.

Warm and happy we dove back into the cold night air under our umbrellas to explore the other side of the river. Just our luck the annual music festival was in full swing, unfortunately the rain had kept the revellers from packing the streets. We enjoyed rock, jazz, classical and latin stage shows interrupted only marginally by thunder overhead. As the days are getting longer it is hard to judge what time it is so we found ourselves heading back for camp around 11pm.

Walking through the field of knee high grass leading to Campingplatz Panorama we turned suddenly to what appeared to be a huge clap of thunder. It turned out that the festival was concluded for the evening with a spectacular fireworks display, illuminating the valley, red roof tops and gleaming white fortress.

Day 1 - 23 June

It is always a good day when we start with French toast, juice and tea. While it was not absolutely decided the previous day Camilla had a plan. Salzburg is renowned for numerous things, Mozart, music, art, universities and the very cheesy 'Sound of Music' Tours. Arriving early at the Mirabell Gardens we admired the famous horse fountain, dwarf garden, open air theatre, long hedge lined passageways and the local music school performers.

After Camilla has worn herself out dancing on the theatre stage, singing and skipping through the vine covered archway it was clear that the 2pm Sound of Music tour 'needed' the Halls. Lunch was held by the river where we devoured an entire pack of Speck (Tirol smoked bacon), camembert and dips while watching the passing parade of families, boats and dog walkers.

While we are not tour-group travellers we do know some of the tricks of the trade. Once the tickets (worth every euro) were acquired we asked precisely where the bus would pull up, estimated the length of a coach and stated our claim at the front of the queue. We were accurate within centimetres and greeted heartily by the yoodelling bus driver Marcus. Trudy the tour leader bounded out behind him in full traditional Austrian highland attire.

On the front seat of the bus Camilla was grinning from ear to ear as Trudy introduced herself, asked who has seen the movie to squeals of delight (Steve ashamedly had to join the only other Aussie Bloke in putting up his hand at not having viewed the masterpiece). Our destinations included lake, gardens and back view of the Von Trapps home, Love Gazebo (which has been relocaed as the music school could not bear the singing and dancing tourist hoards back in 1970s), the monastry and drive around the fortress. Once the in town sights were photographed we headed, singing and cheering, to Lake Wolfgang (splendid) where the mountaintop steam train is located, and Lake Mondsee where the trees the children climb have now grown enormous.

Finally, an icecream to placate Steve and quick visit to the church where Maria married Captain Von Trapp. All together, the tour was a great sucess and an interesting insight into a film which is not only world famous but based (fairly accurately) on a true story of a Salzburg romance during WWII.

Walking over the Mozart bridge (also featured in the Sound of Music we now realise) we headed through town to the traditional beer gardens for our first Austrian stien. To work off some of the calories we climbed the hill for an uncompromised view over Salzburg and the surrounding districts.

Winding our way back down the narrow stairs past the festival halls we rejoined the music festival that was in full swing and well attended due to blue sky. Dinner and drink included an enormous donut pretzel, half a BBQ chicken and two glasses of wine next to the jazz and salsa stage till late in the evening.

We have visited many pretty towns so far and Salzburg is one that present in immaculate condition complete with soul and points of interest for all.

Salzburg remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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ITALY: Our final thought on the splendid time we have spent in Italy (totalling just over 5 weeks) is that it is jam packed with some of the greatest sights, tastes, adventures and people. Having reviewed our time and destinations it is impossible to say that we would have been happy to miss anything however we do feel that the route has been relatively comprehensive without being excessive. We will be back, most likely during Winter for the snow as soon as we win Lotto so that we can go crazy with the fashion, food and Ferraris.

Crossing the border to Austria we were totally engrossed in a Gravitational Physics 101 lecture from a very friendly Assistant Professor working on the LISA project. It is not every day that you get to ask what gravity really is and get the most up-to-date laypersons answer from someone who is helping to launch rocket ships into space to find out. We now have a very brief understanding of black holes, laser beams and other useful galactic cooking tips.

AUSTRIA - Innsbruck - 20 June

Steve may be good at some things; carrying heavy loads, eating leftover pasta, pitching a tent almost anywhere and playing charrades with non-english speaking bus drivers, however, when taking directions from the tourist office at the Innsbruck train station regarding the closest campsite he was obviously dreaming about strudel.

We walked, and walked... and walked some more before arriving at the campsite in the rain where the very friendly blonde receptionist asked how the bus ride to the front gate was. Steve broke a small sweat and said 'eh...I may have forgotten about the second bus connection... would you mind not mentioning it to my wife'. It should be known that Camilla had an inkling that we had taken a rather longer approach than was necessary and probably read that from Steve's face when he offered to carry all her bags to the pitch.

As it was raining heavily all afternoon we caught up with tenthold items such as cooking, tea, washing and drying, reading about Innsbruck and planning our following day. To make it interesting the gliders were wizzing over our heads to finish their decent and the thunder in the hills could be heard echoing off the 3000m high cliff behind our tent.

Day 1 - 21 June

Innsbruck is fantastic for adventure sports of all kinds with a great program of free, inexpensive and exhuberent activities to choose from. As impoverished backpackers we thought it best to join the free guided walk through the mountains. After a dry bread breakfast we arrived at the congress building early to be met by Martin the Austrian tour leader and one other hiker. Not the crowd of thousands we were expecting, it may have had something to do with the thunderstorm looming overhead and hailstone warnings which those with a TV may have been privy to.

Setting off on a 50 person coach we wound our way up to the 1964 / 76 Winter Olympic skifield venue to commence the walk. With the pass we were aiming at visible up in the clouds we were keen to get going. Martin on the other hand set the pace a little slower than expected. As we dodged the butterflies overtaking us we at least had time to admire the thick flower growth, old trees and noisy bell-bound livestock.

Nearing the top of our ascent the thunder clapped louder and we realised that it was coming from overhead of the valley we were aiming at. With only seconds to have the new information register Martin pointed out that we could see the highest peak in Germany and the Italian Alps from our vantage point. As Steve pulled the camera out from under his jacket Martin could be seen leaping like a mountain goat hundreds of metres further down the ravine.

Our shoes and knees got a real workout as we slipped, slided and cursed having to keep up with the ill prepared mountain guide / pace setter who evidently did not choose to bring all weather gear as we had. After 30 minutes of non-stop scramble down from the pass the weather fined up slightly and we arrived at a traditional Austrain mountain hut at 1740m. Only seconds from devouring our somewhat squashed salad rolls Martin had a hissy fit that we were not going to partake in a full hot lunch. Whether he missed out on his kickback from the takings or not, we are just not use to lavish hot meals being available on every bush walk and tucked into the soggy rolls.

Running in the rain the rest of the way downhill, only to take a snails pace on the remaining uphill sections were were greeted at the end of the walk by sunshine and a spare 30 minutes before our pickup. Martin, please don't quit your dayjob! The walk in all was wonderful and the free time in Tesfel afforded us the time to admire one of the stunning 17th century churches with elaborate frescos and a fully adorned mummy / skeleton.

Back on the now shrunken minibus we drove along the Autostrade across a 190 metre high bridge in horizontal rain. Back in Innsbruck however the weather was breaking into pockets of sunshine. Walking through the old town was a real treat including admiring the famous Golden Roof before a well deserved reward of Strudel and silver service tea in a charming little Strudelhaus.

After adminiring the Swarovski crystal displays we got lost in the two main multistorey outdoor adventure stores. After our kneebreaking experience Steve has invested in some alpine walking sticks (hmmmmm) which are expected to get some use in the coming weeks.

Dinner was soon to follow where we planted ourselves in the main square watching the trams go by and framed by the towering mountains behind. Dinner was a traditional affair with Snitzel and chips for Camilla and a country chicken, speck (smoked bacon) and potato casserole for Steve. Austrian beer was the chaser and well deserved at that.

On our way back through the network of trams and buses we joined a retired Queensland couple at the infamous second bus connection to chat about motorhomes. They had only two days before taken delivery of a brand new mobile mansion in Strasbourg. Keen to discuss every detail of the purchase, design, delays, and general operation we were privy to the grand tour on our arrival (no walking) back at camp. It should be noted that although we love our little Chateau the inside of a new motor home is shmick, maybe when our knees can't cope with hauling luggage and crawling into tents will we consider this upgrade.

Innsbruck is fantastic, very pretty and a real gem in the Austrian Alps. Like Italy, the location looks superb under a velvet cover of snow and may require a visit again in the coming years.

Innsbruck remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Stopping in Trento we were a little restless given that we had not adequately researched the area and had no idea where the best access to the famous Dolomite ranges would be found. After talking briefly with the train and bus attendants we stumbled across the tourism board in a side street who informed us that the Val de Fassa would be the best start. With Canazei now in our sights we committed to a 3 hour bus tour (all stops domestic) high into the Dolomite ranges and relaxed in Trento town square for gelato and frappe.

Canazei - 17 June

Europe has certainly got the accommodationless tourist thing down to a fine art. Our scenic bus trip was fantastic and dropped us right infront of the town accommodation booking board, a large electronic listing with map and free phone of all available rooms in town. We debated the benefits of setting up tent at 9:30pm in the mountains and somehow Camilla seemed to quiet easily convince the pack mule that a comfy Penzion would be best. As we fell asleep we could hardly believe that a 1 star penzion with breakfast in this beautiful location could be so reasonably priced. Having planned to stay only one night then relocate to the campsite the following day we somehow ended up confirming another 2 nights.

Day 1 - 18 June

After a wonderful nights sleeps and completely stuffing ourselves with breakfast we retired back to our balcony, complete with valley and mountain views for a relaxing read. Strolling through town late in the afternoon we crossed the fast flowing river and walked through the woods for about half an hour. Settling on a big comfy park bench we discussed life, the universe and everything. Without resolve we have come to the conclusion that extended travel is a valuable part of our personal and relationship development, thankfully there is still another 12 weeks to go.

Eating a home cooked meal of pesto burgers we decided that the following days challenge would be to summit Piz Boe and explore the Sella Gruppa mountain in the Dolomites. To cheers this conclusion we had come across a bottle of the Spumante Dolce Barghetto d'Aqui in the supermarket which we had previously enjoyed in Capri. What a great end to a lovely day.

Day 2 - 19 June - THE CLIMB

Although some of you may argue that a gondola and two very large cable cars is cheating however we could not see ourselves completing an ascent from 1450m above sea level to 3152 into a midday stroll (read: gruelling 6 hour alpine endurance).

Rising up above the thick forest in the godola we immediately boarded the first cable car to be lifted higher than Kosciosko. With an imposing view of the valley from a small precipice our adreneline and excitment had risen to new heights. A short 40 minute walk across the top of the ski fields gave us ample opportunity to admire the green grass, spring flowers and day dream about this area covered in thick snow. At the base of the final Pass Pordoi cable car we could see the top station clinging to the cliff edge high above.

The Dolomite mountain ranges, in particular the Sella Gruppa are an ancient seabed which rose around 300 million years ago to an average height in excess of 2500 metres. Impressive vistas throughout the region include the jaggered mountain faces and large risen plateaus. In the afternoon a rose colour can be seen in the rock and close up it is possible to make out fossilised corals and small crystals. Camilla was at an advantage on this climb as yesterday she invested in a pair of indestructable ASOLO mountain hiking monster boots.

Having reached the top of Pass Pordoi cable car and making our way across the first 2 or 3 snow drifts it was obvious that the boots were a great investment. Precariously narrow trodden paths through the snow and around the cliff edges connected large expanses of open gently sloping hills. Coming to the base of the final ascent we crossed crunchy brilliant white rock and stopped for the final energy fix.

Approximately 45 minutes worth of 1:1 grade climbing was heavy going, particularly the technical sections where permanent cable railings were essential. We felt confident in our capacity to achieve this minor gravity defying exertion in that the 4 and 5 year olds were not overtaking us too rapidly. Notably, the air is thinner at 3152 metres than our homes in Pennant Hills at 50 metres which of course is the only reason our fit athletic bodies would require us to puff and pant (yeah right!)

Having little time to admire the views with our faces firmly fixed on the next step up it was a welcome reward to finally reach the summit. There is little that can be said that is not obvious in our smiles on the photos. What a feeling.

Downhill, for some unknown reason, was by far the hardest section. With jelly legs on slippery rocks and snow we took our time and only used the derrier and additional limbs when necessary. Thankfully our timing was spot on as we caught on of the last few cable cars down to the bottom. Camilla was given the task on the limp back to the penzion to recite all of the sound of music songs in chronological order in preparation for Salzburg.

Having now tasted the European alpine environment, immersed ourselves in the aroma of spring flowers on the hills and completed a (fairly) rigorous climb we are now truly itching to see this place in winter. The Dolomites are both unique in that they are the only coral mountains at this height in the world and present stunning vistas in every direction. Very Cool.

Canazei remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Having been shuttled from the port to the main bus station in Venice our accommodation options were merely a dozen phone calls away. It is way more difficult communicating your needs over the phone without the accompanying arm flailings, thankfully each hotel had multilingual staff making the job that much easier.

Having confirmed a night in well positioned and priced 1 star hotel we gave the ambitious estimate that we would be there in 15 minutes. From our location and using the trusty map it looks like it was due east so how hard could that be...

With compass in hand and morning sun position as a guide we were amazed to find how quickly we were staring up a canal from a narrow footpath with nowhere to go! Traditional navigation methods aside we resorted to the best known team orientation method where Steve chooses a street to turn, then Camilla, then Steve and so forth. Incredibly all it took was 30 minutes to find our way perfectly to the Targhetto at the fresh fish markets.

A Targhetto is the workhorse of the gondola family whereby occupants pay 50 cents each to stand (crammed like sardines) into a 25 foot long boat that is less than a metre wide in order to cross the grand canal. Ordinarily this task would be manageable however Sardines don't often carry 50 kilograms worth of mountain camping equipment. With every breath each of us took the boat heaved and rocked sickeningly as we stared blankly across one of the busiest waterways in Europe. Like all good Aussie travellers it was "no worries mate".

Our hotel was more like a small room at the bottom of a real hotel where you place you unwelcome long distance family members when they drop in unannounced. Welcomed by the owner clearly stating we only have one night available and told that our room is hours away from being ready we gladly headed off into the maze like streets to explore.

Into the daylight it was evident what was on our minds, Camilla made a bee line to the closest Venetian glass ring shop whilst Steve pressed his forehead against the window of the butcher next door. Given that it was still only 9 am we compromised on a bakery breakfast of fresh spinach and ricotta pie and fruitcake filled pastry.

Where in the world is better to be entranced by the mesmirising bobs and ducks of thousands of boats. Venice is simply heaven to get lost wandering and admiring a life that vastly different to any we have seen. It became obvious that since every street and canal is of interest you are only ever truly lost if have somewhere particular to be. Thankfully for the next 4 nights we had nowhere else we would rather be.

As if we had a new bout of energy our afternoon waiting for the hotel room was spent feeding pigeons in San Marco square which Camilla was originally reluctant to participate until finally letting out squeals of delight. After fattening the sky rats we admired the grand canal and Rialto bridge, watched the sun set from Ponte Acedemia and listened to classical guitar in the square where we later bought his CD in appreciation.

Day 1 - 14 June

Greeted with a hot chocolate and pastries for breakfast in the hotel we bounced out the front door full of beans and ready to soak up the city. The city on the other hand took it literally and decided to pour for the exact time it took to buy umbrellas and cross the canal (less encumbered) on the targhetto to the fish markets. Our objective was to purchase the very best local seafood in Venice and sit by a canal over lunch time cooking up a storm. We are amazed at how efficiently two hungry backpackers can polish off a kilo of hot mussels, fresh scampi and a bottle of sweet bubbly if given the chance.

At the end of the final tasty morcel the meal was topped off by an unexpected (sort of planned but that is unimportant) call from Jenni - Steve's sister. It is great to hear familiar voices and only amplyfies how much we miss everyone at home. Alternatively, it seems like a far better idea if everyone just joined us over here!

Full as a googie egg from our seafood nosh, and in tact after a near death experience when opening the warm bubbly (Steve's red mark on his forehead has now faded) we passed a canal which was in the process of being cleaned. Each canal is refurbished, maintained and cleaned every 10 years to avoid excess pollution, degredation to foundations etc. Blocked off at each end, the canals are about 2 to 3 metres deep and get drained dryish, certainly an interesting site to see.

Unfortunately our afternoon was marginally hampered by the fact that we need to move hotels across town. Having found an even better location within 2 minutes of St Marks Square and a vastly improved room at a similar rate we navigated our way easily through the maze.

Cooking the remainder of the fresh seafood on the bathroom window sill was a little precarious as we had to lean over the biddae! We tried fresh sardines labouriously filleted by Steve then followed by a big Salmon Steak chaser. A great day of culinary delights in a great city.

Day 2 - 15 June

Eager to get out on the water we made plans to visit the Murano glass houses out in the lagoon and travel around by Vaporetto (ferries) to explore the city with the locals. Murano is a well organised little island where tourists are ushered down to the demonstration glass blowing room before being herded into the souvenir shop. 30 seconds later and we broke away from the flock to make our own way through the rest of the island. Camilla finally found her treasure, a beautiful Murano glass ring, deeply blue with an aqua shimmer within like the ocean.

Our stomachs recalled the previous days indulgence and therefore commenced calling us forth with goodies. Overpaying the bakery for a few rolls was quickly shadowed by the experience of purchasing local vegetables and fruits from the old grocerer in a canal boat.

Armed with a hot BBQ chicken, rolls and other delights we island hopped back one towards Venice for a picnic and realised we had landed ourselves in the major Catholic cemetery. Without too much discussion we were back on another boat post haste and held off until the stop opposite St Marks and the large shipping chanel. Planting ourselves next to a tree on the concrete it was delightful watching Venice from such a vantage point.

Ferry # 82 is worth remembering as it takes cheapskates like us all the way along the Grand Canal as part of the basic commuter ticket. With the front seats on the ferry it was almost an hour later that we had circumnavigated all of Venice and had the pleasure of joining the Gondolas, water taxis and targhettos up the Grand Canal.

The opportunity to sit in one of the great music halls built in 1580 and listen to Vivaldi's 4 seasons, Pachebel's Canone (Camilla walked down the isle to this piece) and other hits from way back when was not to be missed. As if a great dollop of cream had been added to the icing on the cake the poor buggers were dressed in vitage XVIII century regailia. What a treat to see a violin virtuoso (whos name now escapes us) fill the hall with exquisitely detailed sounds, a true highlight.

So inspired are we from the passion which this great music evoked in us we have committed personally, to each other and those poor souls who will no doubt be subject to the endless practice that it is time we take up (or renew) the piano (Steve) and guitar (Camilla). Further review upon our return may ensue. To top off the evening we had 30 seconds left on our boat ticket so we hopped onto the # 82 back down the grand canal at night and disembarked at San Marco.

To our great surprise, and unfortunate delight, St Marks square was rapidly filling with the incoming tide. Persistent in thier quest to entertain their patrons the three famous coffee houses put on a musical show on raised platforms. Dancing in the puddles (thank goodness for Aussie thongs) we waltzed to the greats and swing danced the rest. Reflecting every whisp of light the water that engulfs St Marks so regularly makes for a dazzling portrait of city that is in immanent danger of being lost to all.

Day 3 - 16 June

Exploring the remainder of Venice was as easy as being determined to get lost for a few hours. What a pleasure wondering the narrow alleys, crossing numerous plazzasa and bridges, and oggling every bakery window. En route we caught the targhetto to the fish markets, argued a bit over the need for meat versus squid then gave in to each other and bought both.

At the train station we were blessed with the greatest timing and highlight of the lost traveller experiences. A poor little tourist (no indication of nationality required) came bounding up to us bewildered and asked with sincere concern "Is this Venice???". With the gondolas bobbing only just over our shoulders it was difficult to keep our total shock and disbelief behind our poker faces. Steve calmy replied [i]"I believe so... eh ... good luck".

Our final afternoon was spent cooking, watching the world go by from the top of St Marks tower which affords the most fabulous view of Venice and then finally dancing in the square as the tide pushes up relentlessly.

Leaving in the early on a Sunday morning the air was filled with church bells while the streets were empty. At this moment we knew for certain that one day we would be back.

Venice must be visited at least a couple of times throughout to be truly appreciated. We hope you all get the pleasure of spending time in this fragile and rewarding city.

Venice remains copyright of the author snchall, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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