Europe Adventure 2007

5 September

Flying early to Paris was great as it gave us the rest of the day doing what Parisians do, live life without a care in the world. Delighted to be back on familiar soil with our turtle homes on our backs we strolled the streets of the Latin Quarter in search of our favourite kebab shop. After lunch we headed behind Notre Dame and came to a rest in a cafe outside the Pompidou centre. As the hours passed writing in our journal and discussing the past months we decided to make the effort and change venues for the grand distance of 2 blocks for a drink.

In the early evening we made our way on the RER to Perreaux to meet again with our friends Philippe and Emilie, sharing pizza and chatting before finally crashing for the night.

6 September

With only days of the trip left up our sleeve we made the most of our time in Paris. Starting at the Moulin Rouge we bought tickets for the evening show and shopped like crazy for hours, and hours, and hours (not to mention Steve's addition... HOURS). With a short hissy fit stop at Sacre Coeur only minutes into the shopping marathon Camilla was finally relieved to end in Zara. After months of daydreaming, window shopping and an occassional glance inside we made some much needed clothing replacement decisions.

Our shopping trip was not complete as Camilla made it clear she would be remaining behind unless a suitable birthday present for Mum was found. The shopping (and sightseeing) continued with visits to old favourites including a stroll outside the Louvre, visit to Place de Concorde, shopping up the entire length of the Champs Elysee before a second Steve style shopping related hissy fit completed the shopping day.

Back in the Pigalle district with all the red lights we entered the Moulin Rouge to find a full house buzzing with anticipation. The show was full of energy and a real feast for the eyes and ears with wonderful costumes (many of which were very small), feathers everywhere, a balancing duo, comedian juggler / drummer, ventriloquist, swimming pool complete with 3 m long pythons and half naked bather, song, dance and our first bottle of real French champagne for the trip.

7 September

Still in search of the perfect present we commenced our day with a walk through the Jardin du Luxembourg where we stopped for a goats cheese sandwich we continued towards Montparnasse via every boutique store along the way. Finally, we came across just the right gift... it's a suprise.

Under the Eiffel tower we finished the rest of the cheese before ending up in a little typical cafe / bar / brasserie for dinner. Waiting for the sun to set we emerged later for a final view of the Eiffel Tower at night. Underneath the structure is a huge rugby ball and thousands of fans watching the opening ceremony via big screens filling the air with intermittant cheers and crys.

Saying farewell to the icon we walked to the Arc de Triumphe for a look at night then finally retired from being a tourist for the day.

8 September

Catching the train in with Emilie we parted ways at Nation station and headed to the Saturday markets under the Eiffel Tower. What a great display of colour with all the fresh food, clothing, flowers and jewellery on such a sunny morning. Setting ourselves up in the gardens around Hotel de Invalide we ate fresh roasted ham and chicken before walking across the stunning Alexander III bridge, via the souvenir stores outside the Louvre then onto the pond at Jardin du Luxembourg to meet Emilie. Children were playing with hired sailing boats in the larger ponds around town and pushing them off the walls with long wooden sticks. Of course it was difficult to resist but due to a lack of time it will have to wait until next visit.

We returned to Perreaux with Emilie to meet Philippe and have an aparatif before returning to St Germain des Prix for our final evening meal together. Munching through confit of duck, marine salad and roasted bass fish we had a wonderful night in an extremely busy restaurant tucked away in a covered alleyway. The vibrance and life around eating out in Paris is so evident when you can find these little gems and share them with friends.

9 September

Today we were all going to be tourists. Philippe and Emilie were our guides and selected Fountainbleau Forest for a picnic lunch. Stocking up on supplies of cheese (6 varieties), baguette and fruit we headed to Barbizon village for a quick visit before eating. Coincidently the art focussed village was holding a street fair with traditional folk music, sculpture, clay turning and glass blowing exhibits and taste testing of local cuisine. Deep into the forest we cleared a space between the rocks and settled into a couple of hours of eating, making bridges out of fallen branches and generally having a great day out.

After lunch we visited the grounds of Fontainbleau Palace, a truly immaculate estate then returned for an eveing of playing Nintendo WII and laughing into the night. We will miss our friends and hope to either return or see them in Australia soon.

29 August

The beauty of waking up in a bed and breakfast rather than the tent is that there is nothing to organise or prepare, just wander downstairs, say yes to a full cooked breakfast and gaze out the window at the lightening morning. We were committed to only one task today, climb Ben Nevis mountain, the largest in Britain at over 1300 m. Although it does not compare is size to those we have walked in Switzerland the hike starts a measly 50m above sea level, the rest is up to us.

About 2.5 hours into the progresssively steeper section of the walk on loose rocks we commented that there had not been a single step taken in a downward direction. Another hour later and we both felt the burn creeping into our legs and to make things even more interesting the visibility declined rapidly from endless views down glacial valleys to a mere 20 metres ahead. Thankfully the mountain was crawling with likeminded crazy hikers and the path was well marked with cairns, large mounds of loose rocks which grow over time as passing walkers add their contribution to ensure the safety of those who follow.

Now deep in the clouds and swimming through the cutting wind filled with pellets of icy water we finally made it to the top of Britain. A truly surreal landscape lay before us with cutting flints and jagged cliffs slipping in and out of view. It didn't matter that the panorama was obscured by cloud cover, or that the journey up took 5 hours, we knew long beforehand that the only sight we looked forward to seeing was each other smiling back with the satisfaction that comes after such a lot of effort.

Down is harder than up! Knees knocking and heads bobbing we rolled back down with the realisation that our young knees don't feel young anymore. At the bottom we took a final glance up the valley of Glen Nevis at the ancient landscape and towering hills before a final nod indicating that a tick in our 'must do list' for the trip can be entered. Dinner was an extravagant affair in the carpark of the B&B. Sounds terrible but eating out gets very tiring so a quick mash of vegetables and rice was great. Sleep came moments after we entered our room, what a great day.

30 August

After another cooked breakfast all we craved was fresh fruit and a cup of tea. Back on the road again we headed to Neptune's Staircase, a series of 8 interconnecting lochs which make the passage from the North Sea to the Atlantic possible via Loch Lochy, Loch Ness and through the fjord around Fort William. Chatting to the loch attendants we learnt all there is to know about lochs, basically the water from upstream runs into the lower loch, who would have guessed!

Lazily strolling across the top gate and to our surprise a steamtrain heading to our next destination was casually puffing down below. Ok, ok it was kind of planned that we would see the steam train go over the Glenfinnan viaduct some 15km away but we had lost track of time, the race was on. Driving recklessly out of the carpark we topped out our speed chasing the train at a hair raising 30 miles an hour while Camilla hung out the window to capture some great images of the train in full flight running along the loch. At Glenfinnan viaduct (used on the way to Hogwarts in Harry Potter) we joined the other 30+ trainspotters with time to spare. After the excitement, which lasted around 30 seconds, was over we visited the information centre and learnt what we could of the numerous highlander battles before climbing the monument.

Lunch was enjoyed next to Loch Lochy Laggan Loch (we had fun with that name for hours) before following the cross country lochs including Loch Ness. No sighting of Nessie was made however we were visited by 3 jet fighters at low altitude when admiring Castle Urquhart from distance.

Onto Inverness our time was spent wandering through town, across the bouncy suspension bridge and stocking up on supplies for the evening meal. On cousin Anne's suggestion we aimed at the Cairngorms, a picturesque mountain range, to find accommodation. Later in the evening we finally came to a stop at a sport and recreation holiday park where we enjoyed a walk along Loch Insh before retiring.

31 August

Leaving Loch Insh and the Insh marshes behind we visited a stronghold for the Scottish army, Ruthven Barracks, set in the centre of a valley commanding awesome views of the surrounding countryside. In Dunkeld we stopped at the Police Station / Corner Store / Cafe / Post Office / Souvenir Shop to post the Britain book back to Rob and Sarah in London (thanks guys) then set ourselves up by the river for tea. Admiring the fast flowing waters with rich coloured tanin we noticed a fly fisherman going through the motions of casting at an angle where the light caught the whip of the line and fall of the droplets perfectly.

Through Cupar we dodged the hundreds of schoolkids out for lunch and continued on our way to the birthplace of golf. At St Andrews we resisted the temptation of running for a look at the famous 18th hole on the Old Course, instead choosing to set up on the beach for our final self catered hot lunch of spaghetti bolognase with mushrooms and spaghetti. The cooker and kitchen set has been one of the greatest investments on the trip as it has given us the opportunity to vary our diet, remain mostly healthy and enjoy cooking local ingrediants often with a better view than even the fanciest restaurant.

At the 18th hole we realised it looks like most other golf courses so to amuse ourselves we watched a couple of groups tee off and wished that we could join. Unfortunately there were three reasons we couldn't; 1 - Dress code, 2 - Own set of clubs, and 3 - Justify the $600+ green fees for two players! Camilla received a consolation in the form of her first golf glove and some souvenir golf balls to be lost at a course back home.

Now inspired to learn golf and return one day on a bigger budget we stopped at St Andrews Catheral ruins before taking the scenic drive down the east coast via Crail.

After enjoying watching the countryside roll by we made a final, and somewhat hurried stop due to cutting it fine for dinner back at Anne and Douglas', at the Firth of Forth with its towering road and spetacular rail bridges. With a howling wind it was an impressive sight seeing the Firth of Forth waters below whipped up to whitecaps. Crossing the road bridge we were funneled into an unplanned detour around Edinburgh which made us hopelessly late for dinner (approx. 45 minutes which on Camilla's watch is unforgivable).

Arriving at Anne and Douglas' we delighted to be welcomed back, enjoyed fine Jamie Oliver cuisine kept warm in the oven and after chatting about the weekend ahead we slept like drift wood.

1 September

With the most hectic month of travel now behind us the day promised to be great with Anne, Douglas and daughter Gale as our guides. First stop was the not to be missed Falkirk wheel. Similar in rise to Neptunes 8 canal locks the Falkirk wheel rotates boats from a higher canal to the water below using less than 10 kettles worth of electricity per turn. Camilla and Douglas combined their efforts to explain the physics behind the masterpiece (Archimedes and displacement of water balancing calculations) while Steve, Gale and Anne admired the asthetics before a cup of coffee in the cafe.

Next stop Castle Campbell set in a ravine over the pretty town of Dollar. As we approached the castle as if planned a Russian bride and Scottish groom were piped into the courtyard with us in close pursuit. Adding to the ambiance of our visit were the familiar tones coming from the bagpipes which carried effortlessly to our ears even at the top of the tower.

On our descent we bumped into the happy couple after the ceremony and became onlookers to the festivities to follow in the garden. As planned, Anne led us up the nearby Bunk Hill which as a child she use to climb and wave down at her Grandma in Dollar. We waved and were not surprised to receive little interest from the townfolk below.

Relaxing in the car we drove past the Wallace monument on our way to Stirling Castle. Reflecting on our luck at coming across a wedding complete with piper at Castle Campbell we joked that in order to top off the day a full pipe band outside Stirling would suffice. After touring the grounds and exploring the many rooms of the enormous complex we found ourselves looking down from the turrets at, you guessed it, a full pipe band on the lawn outside.

Topping off the day we treated our guides (and ourselves) to a lovely dinner at the Riverhouse Restaurant. In the evening we had drinks at the Orchard Park Hotel, formerly the infirmary where Mike Hall, Douglas and Englands current Prime Minister were all born. We enjoyed a great day with great company.

2 September

North Berwick, east of Edinburgh, was our major destination for today where we would be meeting up with Laura (eldest daughter) and her boyfriend Paul. On our way we stopped first at a country motor museum where the real action was outside. As if our luck from yesterday was continuing we chatted with the owners of almost 20 classic cars on a touring trip around Scotland. Deciding that we had learnt sufficient amounts about cars we skipped the museum and instead opted for coffee in a local art gallery.

Meeting Laura and Paul at the station we walked around the corner to the local pub for a wonderful Sunday roast (don't forget the trimmings). Full and satisfied after lunch we took a long walk on the beach and before we knew it Anne had jumped into the North Sea without a wetsuit while we remained dry and warm on the sand. Next stop the Bass Rock Bird Centre for refreshments in the sun (Irn Bru and Ribena juice). While Anne was sorting out her hair after the swim she dropped her hairclip down onto the rocks below the deck which was immediately taken as a token by a seagull to a nearby rock where it was later recovered by Steve. From the information centre we looked through a telescope at Bass Rock (aproximately 5km offshore) at the 10,000+ ganets and other sea birds, covering the rock like snow.

Informed of the fact by Laura we were encouraged to joined her in Edinburgh that evening to watch the final fireworks in celebration of the international art festival. Without delay the proposition was accepted and we headed into the limelight. Amidst the increasing crowds of people a dull rumble could be heard and was later identified as our stomachs. We ate at the very swish Brown's Restaurant and only in the nick of time received the bill before making a mad dash to Castle Street to watch the spectacular. Almost an hour later we revelled in our first impression of Edinburgh Castle illuminated by a stunning display of light and sound.

3 September

Keen to see the sights of Edinburgh in daylight we drove to the closest Park & Ride and whipped into the centre of town. Strolling up the Royal Mile we chose Deacon Brodie's Tavern for a traditional fair of haggis and chicken with real cider for lunch. It may not look pretty but haggis is certainly tasty, particularly edible if you don't think or know what is in it. After filling our bellies we went onwards to the castle where we searched for fireworks debris (easy to find as it was everywhere) and explored the many interesting exhibits including the war museum and crown jewels vault. Enjoying the fabulous commanding views from the castle walls whilst listening to the audioguide we learnt more of Scotlands colourful history.

On our way back down the Royal Mile we ducked in and out of many 'closes', the narrow alleyways leading to the living quarters and houses of the town folk. Stepping through each entrance to discover the underbelly of Edinburgh it is easy to imagine the city in centuries gone by as little seems to have changed. We visited the writers museum and thoroughly enjoyed the Robert Louis Stevenson exhibition before closing time then strolled down to Holyroadhouse, noted the Queens absence, and therefore enjoy tea once again without her company.

The rest of our afternoon was spent walking up the hills behind Edinburgh along the crags and then upwards to Arthur's Seat. With amazing views as far as Crail and North Berwick we soaked up the last of the afternoon sun before descending to Grassmarket, lower part of the old town, for nachos at a dinky pub.

4 September

Our morning started with a cooked breakfast prepared by Anne before we headed out with her and Jennifer (youngest daughter) to the Burrell Collection and Pollock House. The Burrell Collection was aquired over the lifetime of Mr Burrell and included numerous fine examples of art and furnishing from around the world. Pollock House on the same estate presented beautifully. The four of us enjoyed tea in the old kitchen before parting ways where we then ventured through the house admiring the architecture and gardens.

Using the Park & Ride we made our way into the heart of Glasgow and strolled down the busy Buchanan street, through Georges Square and then to the banks of the river. Using the comprehensive metro (one big loop) we jumped out at the Museum and Art Gallery where we spent the rest of the day until closing. The museum had one of the best presentations of natural history in a modern context and some wonderful Scottish art pieces as well as many famous painters such as Picasso, Renoir and Degas.

Our final evening in Scotland was spent in the company of Anne, Douglas, Gale and Jennifer as we ate and laughed well into the evening. We packed our bags properly for the first time in weeks and again were surprised it all fits. Saying our farwells, as we were leaving at 5.30am tomorrow, we thanked them for a wonderful time and look forward to seeing Anne and Douglas in Australia in November.

22 August

Arriving before opening time at Calke Abbey (back in England) we stopped at a lookout nearby overlooking the resevoir where a number of farmhouses and a small bridge were submerged in the flooding back in the late 1800s. Finding our way back into the immense estate of the Abbey we set up under a twisted old oak tree for tea, scones and LOTR. Deeply engrossed we were stirred from our reading by the sight and sound of more than 500 stampeeding sheep. Laughing at the display the most interesting aspect was listening to the huge variety of 'voices' as they baaa'ed' and we now fully appreciate the term to follow like sheep.

Once we made it into Calke Abbey (NT) it was easy to appreciate the baroque mansion, which was commenced in 1701, for its quirky inhabitants. The family has long since left yet the 1000+ taxidermied animals and extensive collection of natural history artifacts impress upon us the eccentricities of the previous owners. The house is unique compared with others that we have visited in that it has primarily been preserved in a state of decline rather than restored. Finally, from the courtyard where plumbing work uncovered a 13th century skeleton our visit ended by taking the 200m service tunnel to the brewery and bakehouse.

Sudbury Hall (NT) was our final house for the day with notable inclusions such as the costume trail displaying many outfits used in the BBC adaptations of Jane Austen novels, interior rooms used in Pride and Prejudice (BBC) and the exhibition of popular toys over the last 100 years. Our visit also included a long stop in the shade of a large moss covered tree overlooking the lake and reading LOTR.

This evenings destination would be another of the regions finest establishments. Arriving on the doorstep of Brian's (Mike's/Dad's friend from school/scout days) we felt right at home after a warm welcome and a wonderful meal of Chilli Con Carne prepared by Elaine, Brian's girlfriend. We all enjoyed a night of getting to know one another and planning our coming days in Derbyshire.

23 August

Today we woke up late (after 8am) which was bliss before mustering up the energy for a 'Sunday' (today is Thursday) consisting of tea, breakfast, tea, internet, Chilli Con Carne reheated, movie (Amelie), tea then welcoming Brian home from a day at w..., w.... it is too difficult to say but we will try again, w...ork!

Fully rejuvenated we joined Elaine in the early evening in her garden for a Pimms cocktail before toddling off to Duffield for the grand tour of unmissable family history sights such as the Hall family home, high street, scout hall and school. After the tour we walked along the quite streets to meet Frank and Beryl, Brian's parents and old time friends of grandma and pa. It was a real delight to be invited into their home, shown the agricultural prowess of Frank with his tomato house and how the neighbourhood trade in home grow vegetables affects GDP. On a lighter note we really cherished our time drinking tea and indulging in Beryl's fresh baked cookies while listening to them reminisce about life in Duffield and happy memories from when the Halls lived in England. We wish them the best of health and happiness and hope to visit again in the not too distant future.

A perfect finish to any 'Sunday' came at Brian's suggestion. We ate at George's seafood take away and had a fabulous meal of Haddock and Cod. Unfortunately, due to popular demand the supply of mushy peas had been depleated so baked beans would have to suffice, nevertheless a great meal at the end of a great day.

24 August

Our first day in Derbyshire commenced with a scenic drive to Lyme park, the famous film location and fascade of Pemberly in the BBC Pride and Prejudice. As the house did not open until 1 pm we spent the morning walking through the extensive grounds. At one point, far from the safety of the house, we were confronted by a placid herd of highland cattle. They may look cute and cuddly from a distance or when being showed, however close up they are not dissimillar to hairy, smelly and horned cow.

Far more attractive was the herd of speckled deer (50+) we encountd on our way back up to the house. Splashing out we joined the guided tour which engaged us in the family history and the constant alterations done to the house over the years. Lunch was enjoyed by the pond, infamous for the scene where Lizzy encounters Mr Darcy soaking wet. Our reenactment had all the sizzle and romantic intrigue of a herd of highland cattle. Steve needs to watch the series a few more times to get the scene just right.

Back in Denby with Brian and Elaine we visited the Dead Poet's Inn, a wonderfull dinkey English pub for traditional ales, ciders and wines all leading to a bundle of laughs. Dinner was a team affair of chicken topped with stirfry vegetables listening to the beach boys and then watching the Rolling Stones tour DVD.

25 August

Today proved to be one of our busiest days yet under the leadership of our local guides. Starting the tour of Derbyshire we stopped at a great second hand bookstore before heading to Matlock Bath. A short stroll along the river in the sun took us to the Victorian era bath house, petrifying spring, aquarium and hologram display. Feeling lucky we plaed the 2 pence slot games, winning 10p and losing 30p. Upwards and onwards we followed our noses to the Bakewell farmers market then into the home of the original Bakewell pudding.

Settling ourselves amidst the colourful flowers in a small park the four of us devoured our freshly baked goodies for lunch. While the girls chose to window shop the boys ducked off to the Orvis flyfishing tackle and hunting store with a strict time limit in place. Needing more than a quick shop to work off lunch Elaine guided us to the Froggarts Edge walk (NT), a precipice commanding stunning views over the Derby countryside.

After our short exertion our blood-tea levels were critically low so we made a bee line to Eyam, a small medieval village devastated by plague in the 1600s. When we arrived we were unexpectedly surprised to come across the tradition of dressing the town well in thanks for the years supply of water. Elaborate plaques were erected using local flora embedded in clay to make images and by the looks of them would have taken hours upon hours to prepare. Who would have thought a tea house in England could be busy enough to run out of tea cups! Thankfully some delicious Eyam lemon cake kept us calm. Walking through town we learnt from plaques on each house how the plague, which was spread from London via textile deliveries, had killed a large proportion of the townsfolk. In one household the tragic circumstances left a women to bury her husband and 7 children in only 9 days.

To lighten the mood for the afternoon we visited Moors Head lookout, significant as one of the beautiful places Brian took Mike and Chris (Steve's parents) when they visited on their honeymoon over 30 years ago. Our final tourist stop for the day was the amazing Chatsworth House Estate. With the late afternoon sun catching the gold leaf window frames the house glowed from every angle throughout the parkland.

Brian and Elaine had earlier made reservations at their favourite pub and treated us to a delicious meal at the Old Poets Corner in Ashover. Warm and drowsy from great fish & chips and pork blood pudding sausages both with heaps of mushy peas (finally) we had one last stopoff on the way back to Brian's.

With only a faint light on the horizon Brian pulled over at the edge of his fishing club resevoir. In the brisk still night air we stood in silence the suddenly made out the silouette of a squadron of migrating geese coming in to land on the glassy surface. The sounds of night animals mixed in with the chatter of numerous birds in the darkness filled our senses and left a lasting impression of the beautiful English countryside.

26 August

Taking charge in the kitchen we prepared the best Aussie / English breakfast possible for our hosts. The delicious breaky (if we do say) fueled us in preparation for our first flyfishing lesson with only the next door neighbours petunias as a target. We tried our hand at the art of casting with a hookless line and now can't wait to try properly back home. A walk through Duffield was selected for the day from a comprehensive book on treks starting and ending at a pub.

As we followed the course Brian retold tales of his childhood growing up in the area and how he and Mike/Dad explored the fields, river, narrow stoney paths, forest and nearby chimney stack. Behind the gardens of Little Eaton the path led us down to an abandoned railway, small stream and relic of an old mill wheel before climbing back up to fields on the plateau. Settling in the grass for a picnic lunch in the sun Elaine's mothers cheesy scones went down a treat along with sambos and apples. The temptation of the surrounding blackberry bushes was too much for Steve and soon after we were all collecting berries for a creation later that evening.

Walking back to our starting point at the Bridge Inn it seemed only fitting to have a quick beverage before returing to Brian's for our first roast chicken in months including all the trimmings. To follow was the promised fruits from our labour, a fresh blackberry and apple crumble. Desert never tasted soo good. Eating by the back fence as the sun set over the distant fields. The adjacent cow paddock to the back fence was full of some very curious bovine who must have smelt desert as the entire herd congregated only feet away. Camilla the cow whisperer made friends quickly patting thier wet leather noses while Brian contemplated a potential future in farming.

27 August

Unfortunately our morning commenced with farewells to Brian and Elaine who have been wonderfull hosts over the last 5 nights. It has been great sharing so much time chatting, laughing and forging a new friendship, we look forward to reciprocating their generosity soon.

Our only stop for the day was along Hadria's Wall (NT) where we learnt some of the details regarding the 125km long baricade erected to keep the Northeners out of the Roman Empire. Birdoswald Roman Fort (NT) was an interesting visit with ruins to explore and some good exhibits. Further east we stopped for tea at Cawfields mile-castle and quarry set against a picturesque row of crags jutting out of the surrounding farmland.

On the road again we failed to restrain from one of the worst indulgences, KFC before arriving a bit later than expected in Glasgow, Scotland. Standing on the doorstep of Douglas and Anne's we were excited to meet relatives from the other side of the world for the first time (Anne is Mike's cousin). After a warm welcome and a hot cut of tea we slept soundly with plans to head further north tomorrow and return to Glasgow later in the week.

28 August

Leaving early in the morning we stopped on the banks of Loch Lomond where, as if on cue, a kilt clad piper jumped out from behind the bushes and started playing. Excited by this chance encounter with a wild native piper we wondered what lay ahead of us in the Scottish highlands. A pit stop for tea by a stream and we drove to the Falls of Lorne, a horizontal tidal phenomenon through a narrow gap leading out to the sea. Little did we know that later in the day we would cross the road bridge see the falls running in the opposite direction as the sea pushes its way up the valley into the Loch.

Our lunch venue was in the delightful seaside town of Oban. Perching on the wharf alongside the seagulls we ate while watching the ever moving scene of boats, pipers and birdlife.

After lunch we made the rare decision to go our seperate ways, Steve attending a tour of the Oban distillery (oldest and one of the smallest in Scotland) famous for their 14 year single malt while Camilla strolled the town window shopping and soaking up the atmosphere. When we met up Steve explained in full detail the process of making fine whisky and proudly displayed an investment that will be enjoyed on many special occassions in the years to come.

Our afternoon was spent driving the scenic roads around Lochs and through valleys to Fort William. As the camping equipment has been honourably dismissed from duty we nestled into a stunning B&B by the water for the night. Dinner was enjoyed in the park opposite watching the sun crack through the clouds in the final moments of our first full day in Scotland.

Arriving - 26 July 2007

While we were excited about our first flight in months we were even more thrilled to be arriving in London, and by London we mean the sheep paddock called Stansted Airport. The bus ride rocked us to sleep for almost 2 hours before we emerged at Baker Street in the pooring rain. Totally unphased we put on full mountain wet weather gear and strode off in search of the Queen.

Baker, Oxford, New Bond, Piccadilly, Pall Mall and The Mall are all far easier street names to navigate than the last 4 months. Ladden with our heavy burdens and convict pride we arrived at the gates of the 'Mother Ship', Buckingham Palace. The sun came out in time for us to enjoy the Queen Victoria memorial, a stroll through St James Park and visit the horse guard courtyard before synchronising our watches with Ben (the big one that is), and finally stopping to marvel at the London Eye.

Having ascertained which of the dozens of platforms at Waterloo Station was ours we rode to Walton-on-Thames and walked onto New Zealand Avenue. Greeted by our New Zealand friends the jokes regarding their street name quickly subsided to a warm welcome into their home where we would be based for the coming days.

Day One - 27 July 2007

Fully stocked up (finally) with Australia's finest condiment (we had to regain the rose in every cheek), our start and end point would be Waterloo Station. For today it was a long walk in the first sunshine locals had seen in weeks. Walking along the South Bank we came to Englands largest collection of Modern Art at the Tate Museum. As with all visits ever made to modern art collections, Camilla swears to never return with Steven in tow as the constant criticism and mumbling disturbs the other visitors and embarasses to no end. Vegimite was clearly the only thing that would placate Steve.

Tower Bridge, to our surprise was baby blue rather than red as we had thought for some reason, yet no less impressive. We enjoyed watching the red double decker buses and London cabs cross the small gap in the middle of the bridge where the Thames is winking up from below. Unfortunately, due to long queues we would miss the last Yeoman tour of the Tower of London so we admired the stronghold from outside instead and are determined to visit next time round.

A short stop on the steps of St Paul's cathedral was necessary after a quick peak inside, then down Fleet Street we went to Temple Church ( in Da Vinci Code) and most importantly to the birthplace of tea consumption, Twinnings first retail store. It is nice to be back in a civilised country where tea is cheaper and more readily available than coffee. One of our favourite places in London is Covent Garden with its myriad of entertainers, tea houses, pubs and quaint specialist toy shops. As if our legs weren't tired enough we bypassed the Royal Opera House before dashing to Leichester Square to find out what was on the stage in the West End tonight.

Camilla took substantial convincing before finally agreeing to go to Cabaret, what with all that unnecessary dancing, singing and over the top theatrics... promise. With some time to spare before curtain up we walked a big triangle through Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus both writhing with activity before stopping for take-away chinese outside the theatre. Whether it is our Aussie accents or broad smiles, we don't mind which, we were upgraded to our own private box, LUCKY!

Our boomerang tour for the day took us out of the theatre to Waterloo station via Big Ben where we checked we were still on time for the train. With the rain starting lightly there was a magic in the air as the lights of Westminster lit up the underneath of the clouds overhead. The buzz of the evening was drowned out only by Ben's chiming 11pm as we turned for the station.

Day 2 - 28 July - Back on a bike!

To be sure, the greatest consipiracy in history mandated by the Queen herself is that ALL BRITISH are to tell the rest of the world that England has miserable weather. For all the evidence we have on hand suggests that England is blessed with crisp sunny summer days (ignoring the recent devastating floods). To take full advantage of the day Sarah suggested a bike ride along the Thames river and received no opposition from us.

Past the Aston Martin dealership and through a small field we were gracefully bumping and jerking along the banks in no time. Our first stop was Hampton Court Palace to admire Henry VIII love pad and gardens then onto Bushy park to track deer to no avail. Onto Kingston for a picnic lunch next to the river using fresh local farmers produce.

On our return we stopped to eat wild blackberries, YUM! Sarah's second excellent suggestion for the day was to wash down the berries with a selection of England's finest beverages such as ales, ciders and wheat beer. It was a lazy afternoon affair with Prince Charles 'Dutchy's Original Organic Wheat Beer' and for Camilla a 'Hobgoblin Oak Matured Cider'. When Rob got home we left to Windsor Castle for dinner however unfortunately the Queen was not at home so instead we walked the streets of Windsor, visited Eton College and dined on fine Italian cuisine.

Day 3 - 29 July

Sunday morning in Walton on Thames reminded us of home with a full English breakfast. Thankfully we were full of beans as we assisted in stripping a one of Sarah's friends cars for spare parts. Sarah's Rover Metro now runs straighter with new tires and a shiny bonnet. We all headed to Hyde Park to start the afternoon in town and after a short stop at speakers corner we escaped the mad ranting of soapbox weilding shouters for Greenwich. With a pit stop at Canary Wharf for Tescos sandwiches we walked up the grassy hill and paid tribute to Captain Cook's statue before entering the observatory. In typical tourist fashion we stood on both sides of the world at once (0 to 360 degrees longditude) before marvelling at the original maritime time pieces such as the first timepieces and chronographs.

ROB AND SARAH ON THE LINE

It was ale o'clock so back on the tube to Soho we went in search of a 'dinky' English pub with traditional cask ales and cider. What a great end to a super day with friends.

Day 4 - 30 July

Changing of the Guard would today be our first tourist adventure. We made it just in time as the procession wound around Queen Victoria Memorial and behind the fence of Buckingham Palace. Having now witnessed a couple of Guard Changing ceremonies throughout Europe we feel confident in saying that this ceremony is a real treat to enjoy. The sunshine was out and we could feel the buzz move through the crowd as the masses gathered to listen to the band play.

We set a brisk pace to escape the now dispersing crowd across to Green Park Station and like lightening flashed across town to the British Museum. There were numerous displays which our appreciation of the artefacts and exhibits was substantially enhanced due to having recently visited many of the historical sites in Italy and Greece. After spending over an hour marvelling at the Egyptian collection of mummies and tomb treasures a trip to Egypt should be on the cards in the future certainly. Some of the collections in the Museum are outstanding and for one we are pleased to say we have seen first hand finds such as the Rosetta Stone which unlocked so much history for us all.

Now that we were completely saturated with information we felt the excitement of another West End production was in order to calm the nerves. Unfortunately Les Miserables was sold out save a few 'Restricted View' seats so we opted for the hilarious new Monty Python production 'Spamalot'. Given that we had a couple of hours up our sleeves we headed out to Notting Hill in order to take our first ride on a double decker bus and visit the famous Portabello Road markets. What fun it was to watch the city pass underneath and once we had arrived we found the town of Notting Hill charming. Sainsbury sandwiches, with a much needed enhancement of smoked salmon, was enjoyed on the bus ride back to West End. Spamalot proved even funnier than could possibly have been expected, such a laugh our sides split.

Day 5 - 31 July

As of yesterday Camilla has read the first two lines of the new Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, only making us more determined to find Platform 9 3/4 at Kings Cross Station. Thankfully we were able to avoid suspicion when taking photos of blank walls between the platforms (we suspect we are not the first). Now hungry we made our way to the Natural History Museum and soaked up the sun with the locals whilst having a picnic lunch of Sainsbury's finest sandwiches (AGAIN) and toffy cookies. You can imagine how busy a sunny patch of grass outside a museum full of dinosaurs can get during the first week of school holidays.

As has been repeated a number of times by Steve's Mum, we have in our minds the fact that when he was a young boy he declared his undying love for all dinosaurs and wished to marry one if possible. Things turned out rather differently (lucky Camilla, or more so lucky Steve). At the sight of all the skeletons our imaginations were ignited as we dashed between huge femurs and sharp claws. Saving time in the day for the Science Museum required us to leave the Natural History Museum a bit prematurely yet we weren't dissappointed.

Amidst the extensive collections of world firsts in engineering and science were 1000's of detailed explanations regarding the birth of steam engines, ships, rockets etc. Everything that moves or beeps from X-Ray machines to rocket ships, industrial steam engines for mining, a dissected boeing 747 fuselage and an original WWII spitfire all within our reach ('please do not touch'). Camilla found the first ever electrocardiograph (ECG) particularly interesting and noted the few similarities with todays MUCH more advanced systems.

To top off a great day we were indulged by Sarah and Rob with a traditional British / New Zealand / Australian BBQ in their courtyard before poor Rob had to retire from the festivities to complete a uni assignment, ouch. We really have immensely enjoyed London and thoroughly appreciate Rob and Sarah's generosity and friendship. We look forward to returning the favour in Sydney soon.

Zurich to Basel - 8 July

We awoke today excited at the afternoon rendezvous with our good friends Andre and Therese in Basel. Our meeting point was at 4:30pm underneath the 15 metre tall mechanical 'hammering man', you can't miss it they said and that was certaily the case. We arrived in town a mere 5 1/2 hours early and decided to take in the sights. After a quick pitstop for a nature break Steve found a handbag left in the cubicle. Our first introduction to Basel was a walking tour between the closed police station at the railstation before making our way across town to the weekend depot. On our tour we took in the sights such as the frescoed town hall, river and interesting transit boats, numerous clocks and a small food market before retiring from the rain to MacDonalds (our 4th visit in as many months, tut tut but oh soo good). Luckily the staff did not mind two soaked travellers setting up camp to read some LOTR and add our own assortment of tomato and cucumber to there tried and proven recipes.

Standing underneath the hammering man all of our travel weary worries and tension melted at the sight of our friends smiling faces. How funny to travel for so many months in unfamiliar places before finally seeing someone from home (even though they live here). Dinner was a fabulous affair cooked with real sized pots and pans, topped off with great conversations, endless catch-up regarding recent travel adventures from all of us and the chance to meet Therese's very friendly younger brother Robin.

Over the coming days our mornings started with a wonderful assortment of Swiss cold meats, Swedish caviar, local cheeses and all things good. On our first day we were shown Andre's playground (the ruined castle on the hill behind his parents house), enjoyed a picnic in a paddock during some wonderful sunshine and a driving tour through the Alsace in France, then Switzerland, France etc. about 6 times. On one of the entries we finally had our passports checked. Steve asked for an entry stamp and was denied on the grounds of they didn't have one! After dinner we sat up late discussing the light topics of war and politics in Switzerland and the world.

The following day Andre and Therese needed to drive to Zurich to secure their new apartment lease, which was as good a reason as any for us to revisit this great city. As it was raining we took a tour across the lake on the car ferry and drove high up into the hills for a spectacular view. Junghauskeller was the restaurant of choice, the best Swiss sausage house in Zurich (possibly the world), where we showed our appreciation and gratitude to both of them for their hospitality. Given that we don't understand Swiss German at the best of times, let alone in a crowded restaurant, Andre requested unnoticed a souvenir Junghauskeller beer mug for Steve. Thankyou Andre, it will be well used over the years.

Walking down the famous shopping street, nibbling on champagne chocolate truffles, without hordes of people it is easy to see why so many people love this slick professional and elegant city on the lake. Having returned to Basel in the afternoon we toured Andre's family vineyard to taste the very young, sour and unripe grapes before settling in for our final dinner together.

We really do hope to see both of them either in Zurich or Sydney before too long and will think of them whenever trimming a sail.