Automotive

15 August

We were lucky enough to be able to pack our drenched tent between showers this morning before driving to Stratford-upon-Avon. We are not sure what the difference between 'upon' and 'on' (as in Walton-on-Thames) therefore we developed the theory that 'upon' means town is divided by the water course, and 'on' is that town sits on one bank. Parking in the centre of town we wondered the quaint streets with umbrella's in hand and were shocked by the photo's taken recently of the flooding and surprised at how well the town has recovered.

As tourists it is our duty to clutter the streets, buy items at twice there value, support the tea house industry and have a cheesy photo of us standing in front of famous people's birthplaces. Outside Shakespeare's birthplace we hoped to feel the literary vibe, but remember he was only a baby at this point so we gained no additional creative inspiration. Opposite his first home we discussed the value of purchasing and packing a leather bound Oxford limited edition of his complete works before looking at the price tag. Outcome, we still have space for other souvenirs and will return to hunt for a second hand copy instead.

Strolling past the Avon lock (NT) and canal we ducked into a traditional soft toy shop then made our way back to the car for a long drive into Wales. Navigating around Cardiff we assessed the closest campsite which proved to be too dingy (which says quite a lot) and therefore continued onwards to the Gower Peninsula. In retrospect the decision was perfect for us as we sat on the windy hilltop campsite in Oxwich Bay surrounded by the stunning views across the Bristol Channel to England.

16 August

After a night being battered by fresh winds we awoke feeling free of the burden to enter the bustle of a city. Quite the contrary, we were some of the small few who chose to walk the hills behind Rhossli Beach early in the morning. With clear views across the farming district and out to Worms Head we enjoyed hot chocolate and vegemite & cheese sandwiches sheltered in a rocky outcrop near the beacon (193m).

Joining a 70+ year old couple for the scramble back down hill (hope we are that good after our 50th wedding anniversary) we crossed onto the wide flat expanse of sand to investigate the few remains of the shipwreck Helvetia (1887). It was at this point that Camilla had a feeling of connection with the place given that her maiden name is Gower. GO GOWER POWER!

Climbing back up from the beach onto the jagged cliffs we ventured out to Worms Head and watched a pair of grey seals frolicking in the cold sea below. Returning across the land spit we found an alcove amongst the cliffs for a few pages of LOTR and took our leave when the wind whipped up around us. The Gower coastline and peninsula (NT) has been a real pleasure to visit and explore, just the outdoor medicine we needed.

17 August

Overnight there was heavy rain making the act of packing the tent all that more enjoyable. Leaving the Gower Peninsula behind we turned north to visit Aberdulais Falls (NT) where there is the remains of industry spanning more than 400 years. Harnessing the power of the waterfall and river a great tin plate factory was the last production facility in situ. We learnt a great deal (everything we now know) about tin manufacture and Wales prominence internationally. Admiring one of Europe's largest waterwheels still in operation we became mesmerised by the sloshing and lapping of water while deep below where we stood a huge turbine was converting the channelled water into electricity. Next stop, 10 feet across the path for tea and welsh cakes (aka drop scones), then a second helping before moving on.

Dinefwr Park (NT) and castle car park was the next elaborate venue for our culinary delights with a quick pesto and red salmon spaghetti (one of the best yet) before visiting the house. After enjoying the small number of rooms open to the public we stood at the back gate watching a herd of white cattle grazing and a number of spotted deer at the edge of the woods (sound strenuous?)

Having now visited a number of houses and castles we decided to shake it up a bit and headed directly underground at the Celtic, Roman and Victorian Dolaucothi Gold Mines. Ginger (aka Steve), our red headed guide, kept us shaking the narrow underground passages with laughter whilst relaying sad stories of the difficulties experienced by the workers. Luckily we had a volunteer 7 year old boy (the age most boys started work in the mine) in the group to help with demonstrations.

After leaning over an 80ft vertical exit shaft where the quartz was thrown then carted outside Camilla became the victim of the next demonstration. Requested to step onto a wooden trap door nearby her task was to jump on the count of 3 as hard as she could. With perfect effect and timing she lifted her foot and tapped her toe with a cheeky grin. Encouraged by all she reluctantly stamped as hard as she could the second time which gave the desired effect. Every cavern and passageway thundered then echoed. When asked how deep we estimated the hollow below to be, all the guesses exceeded 80ft similar to the adjacent hole. The group gasped when Ginger explained that Camilla was standing above a sheer drop of approximately 80 millimetres.

Relieved to be out in the fresh air we decended into the valley learning more of the local geology before commencing our search for huge amounts of our own welsh gold. After a total of 10 minutes of panning we realised why this mine went bankrupt numerous times, and why welsh gold is the most expensive in the world.

In the afternoon we drove to Aberystwyth on the Atlantic coast. Although the clouds threatened to break we braved the cold wind to explore the castle ruins and watch the seaside town slip into evening as the funicular made repeated climbs up the mountain behind.

Nearing exhaustion and taking stock of our soaking tent, 3 continuous weeks of sleeping on the ground and long, needing to charge camera equipment and the driving rain we found a lovely 600 year old farm house B&B. Yawn, snore...

18 August

Driving north we came to Porthmadog where we took a quick break for a walk to the info centre and admire the Welsh Highland Railway Station. After reading the weather report we decided to see the Bourne Ultimatum (great). As the afternoon came to an end we unfortunately were turned away from a number of B&B's (not because of how we smelt thankyou), in particular a georgous one nestled under Mount Snowdon in the National Park. After almost 2 1/2 hours we found ourselves back where we started having completed a loop around Snowdonia. Concerned with the dark clouds and light rain we gave in to the call of common sense and pitched in the waning light.

19 August

Although the clouds hadn't cleared it was possible for us to pack the tent without getting too wet and drive into the seaside walled town of Caernarfon. Our tourist activities commenced with Camilla leading us on a historic walk around the walled sections of the village and harbour. During our walk we learnt of the development of the town, trading community life and most importantly that at The Black Boy Inn a room, a bottle of gin and a lady for the night "to help with the washing of sailor clothes" used to cost 4&6.

With perfect timing Camilla had us arrive at Caernarfon Castle just as the huge doors opened. We explored this semi ruinous structure, still classified as a Royal property in service completely alone. Letting our imaginations run wild we ran around like arches, guards and royalty until more sane visitors arrived.

Determined not to have a repeat of the night before where we found ourselves homeless we drove directly (do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars) to Plas-y-Coed, the cute B&B in the National Park. Greated with open arms and a sympathetic smile Cory, our host and owner, made us feel right at home. After unpacking we drove off to the postcard picture perfect little town of Beddgelert for a Sunday roast beef lunch (with all the trimmings). Lyn's Cafe was full of locals and their families, obviously a great location to wash down a big roast with a cold glass of milk.

Stuffed to the brim we took a walk along the swollen river in a slight drizzle to Gelert's grave (NT). Gelert's death was one of the great tragedies in the aristocratic family of the area. One day his master went hunting and could not find his trusty canine companion anywhere. When he returned from the hunt he could not find his son either and instead came across Gelert covered in blood next to the stained sheets of his sons cot. Enraged, he drove his sword through Gelerts chest where the poor animal let out his final howl. At the sound of his dying yelp he was answered by the scream of his masters son in the next room laying beside the savaged body of a wild wolf. Distraught by his mistake the master buried Gelert in a place of honour and never went hunting again. The town is now named after the faithful brave hound.

We enjoyed a light meal in the garden back at the B&B for dinner where Steve received a gift from above just before his first loving mouthfull. Fortunately his enormous head was just big enough to absorb the enormous poop a plane sized seagull delivered. After the bombing a bath was in order and for the rest of the evening we amused ourselves with LOTR and tea by the fire.

20 August

Siting at breakfast early'ish' on this fine Monday morning Camilla explained to Steve with no detail spared how determined she was to make today a "Sunday". This would entail sitting by the fire, reading, drinking tea, long bath, snoozing, more tea and then being served dinner before bed. At what precise point in time it was decided that we would climb Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, is impossible to say. "Sunday" has been officially postponed on account of good weather.

Like all good climbs we started at the bottom, trudged through ankle deep mud, dodged mountain sheep, clambered across stiles (fence ladders), enjoyed fabulous views and finally made it to the top. At 1085m Mt Snowdon commands breathtaking views of the numerous lakes, valleys and coastline of Snowdonia as well as the puffing cogwheel mountain steam railway.

The feeling of accomplishment on summiting was great, yet a little difficult to bask the serenity of the surrounds with the hundreds of others, in partcular those who cheated and caught the train half way up. With a windchill factor near zero the countryside below had a crisp clean and dramatic feel unlike other regions we have visited, brilliant.

Our path down took us across a jagged ridge and finaly stopped, or so we thought, at the Wr-wyddfa steam railway station. Although tired Steve is capable of mustering unknown quantities of childish excitement at the prospect of seeing another steam engine pull alongside. The excitement was short lived when we both realised after that we had only just missed the last bus for over 1 1/2 hours. Onwards we strode, another 2.5 miles (approx. 2.5 gazillion kilometres) back to our refuge in the valley. At least the day ended like a Sunday for Camilla with dinner at the Snowdonia Hotel (Chicken Kiev and Steak & Ale Pie), a hot bath and tea by the fire.

21 August

After another big hot breakfast we chatted to Cory about her amazing travels throughout the world. Our travels recommenced with a scenic drive through northern Wales to Erddig House (NT). Some of the notable points of interest include the 18th century out buildings still in near working order such as the laundry, bakehouse, sawmill, smithy and joiners shop. The residing family held their servants in high esteem attributing great works of art and depicting their loyalty and hard work through poetry. Camilla has been admiring the same china mug in ALL NT souvenir shops and finally let herself indulge with the purchase of a beautiful tea mug. As the evening approached we pitched our very own stately home down wind of a cattle stable complete with amorous bull.

8 August

Our morning began with an underground exploration of Halliggye Fogue (EH), an ancient Cornish Iron Age burial chamber or shrine. The interlinking unlit passages required some ducking and weaving to navigate with our head lamps on. Luckily we made it out past the deadly (looking) massive (if you are an ant) spiders.

Halliggye Fogou as seen without the torches

Wow, it is really dark in here!

The next stop was far more photogenic.

St Michael's Mount was founded in the 12th century and following the English civil war the St Aubyn family have retained a residence in the castle. We enjoyed egg sandwiches and tea on the windy island watching the tall ship and other sailing boats enjoy the breeze. As it was high tide during our visit it was necessary to do a little bit of boating ourselves with the resident ferry masters to get over to the island and back to the mainland.

After another scenic drive through the hedges we made a short stop at Tregiffian burial chamber which strongly resembled a large rock with a small gap underneath. Unfortunately over the thousands of years the nearby road has encrouched on this site and destroyed the rest. Arriving at what we thought was our final destination, give that you can't drive further west of Land's End, we only remained for a short time. Uninterested in an overcrowded novelty park we opted for hot chips at Sennen Cove watching the summer frivolity and sea birds.

Determined for a full day of sight seeing we filled in the rest of the afternoon and evening with a 100km scenic drive to Tintagel head campground.

9 August

Tintagel Castle (EH) presented a concise summary of the King Arthur legend and history entwined, far more than we learnt from Spamalot. Set on a cliff edge Tintagel Castle began as a trading settlement for Celtic kings during the 5th and 6th century and remains in ruins which were still in good working order until the 13th century. The view of the bay far below and adjacent coastline is stunning.

We ventured into a vast sea cave which led us through to the other side of the peninsula on which the castle rests. Back in the bay we admired the 20m+ waterfall crashing onto the sand and pebbles before making its way to the sea.

Tintagel's longest standing complete building is the Old Post Office (NT) dating from 15th century and preserved as it was used back then as a farmhouse and residence. The narrow staircase, rickety roof beams, low doorways and small rooms gave us reason enough not to buy a 550 year old home if you want to maintain good posture. To top off our absorbtion of Cornwalls history and delightful farm scapes we sat for a while on a rock wall eating a selection of cornish pasties we saw being made earlier that morning on our way to the castle. They don't come any better or bigger!

Leaving Tintagel we took a short detour through Boscastle harbour and village on our way to Arlington Court (NT). Unfortunately we were late by 15 minutes to view one of Britains largest collection of horse drawn carriages. Instead we amused ourselves with the extensive collection of model ships (50+), massive shell collection and art throughout the house before strolling in the formal garden and green house.

Deep in the Exmoor National Park we set up camp in the corner of a field with the sound of a nearby creek lulling us into sleep, horses standing quietly on the hillside silouetted by moonlight and the canopy of the Hawkcombe Woods keeping the dew off the tent till morning.

10 August

You may be wondering if we are all 'castled' out yet, and to you we say NEVER! Castle hunting has become rather addictive and for today our first catch would be Dunster Castle (NT). Owned and lived in by the Luttrell family for 600 years we thought it was a bit drafty but certainly good for entertaining. While Steve was admiring the art, furnishings and grandfather clocks Camilla was riveted to a page of scribbled notes in a glass cabinet in a dark corner under the oak staircase. It seems there were a few holes worth picking to pieces in the 1800's instruction manual attached to the portable medicine chest. In particular the bleeding of 12 ounces for treatment of early fever goes against all modern day knowledge.

After cheese and tomato sandwiches in the shade of a huge oak looking out towards the Bristol Channel we ventured in to town as our supplies of traditional clotted cream and lemon meringue fudge was critically low. Without further delay or a moment to lose we made our way post haste for the 14:55 train from Minehead on the West Sommerset Heritage Steam Railway. After careful deliberation over the question to catch or not to catch, Steve is adamant that it is far more exciting to see the action from the platform.

Full of fudge we thought some exercise was in order. Hiking from the carpark we slugged our way up to the tallest point in Exmoor, Dunkery Beacon (NT) at 519m. It took all of 13 minutes at a stretch and the view was well worth the exertion.

11 August

Stourhead Gardens (NT) was featured in the recent production of Pride and Prejudice which made for a lovely morning tour.

We were assisted by a GPS transceiver with audiovisual guide to the grounds and estate which should be read as an indicator of how large the gardens are. Although fairly accurate the GPS plotter would have run us into a number of large trees if directions were followed blindly. Most of our day was absorded at Stourhead so we decided in the late afternoon after a visit to the house that a drive to Bath would be all we could manage.

Having found a suitable campsite we squeezed onto the last pitch available with Teilo and Kathy, a very firendly couple from Brisbane. As dusk fell the four of us caught the bus into town for a walk past the baths, abbey and down to the river Avon with the attractive Pulteney Bridge. Even though it was only 9pm when we started hunting for dinner most of the pubs had stopped serving so we took a local's recommendation and were delighted by the Eastern Eye Indian restaurant. On the return bus journey to camp we experienced the unfortunate disgraces of drunken aggression from youths who evidently were generally dissatisfied with riding the bus, the driver, the seats, windows, each other or anything else for that matter.

To guide us down the narrow path back to camp Teilo produced his trusty wind-up torch and we all slept well as the midnight rain shower started.

12 August

Today would be dedicated to bathing, well visiting the Roman Baths in Bath actually. We avoided the shower drenching us by remaining in our tent till it stopped later that morning. Catching the bus into town we spent about an hour and a half in the Roman bath centre, testing the water temperature and admiring the plumbing before finally tasting a drop from the kings spring in the famous Pump Room. Originally the water was believed to have healing qualities and upon tasting the 46 degree water with its mineral rich after taste it certainly was bad enough to be medicinal.

The rest of the afternoon was spent preparing for an all Australian, outdoor, campside, sing along, tong turning mouth watering, lip smacking gastronomical BBQ! As we finished the last morsel of grilled scottish salmon we chatted till late with Teilo and Kathy. It was very nice to share our campsite with friendly likeminded Aussie travellers, we wish them well on their adventure.

13 August

Dyrham Park (NT) was our first stop for today. Walking down the kilometre long drive we detoured into the woods and spotted a young family of speckled deer. Points of interest in the house included wonderful paintings of Amsterdam depicting harbour and village scenes from the late 1700's and as always an impressive kitchen complex.

After a quick sandwiches lunch in the parking lot (this is totally normal in all National Trust country houses, usually equipped with picnic tables) we headed off to Lacock Abbey and village for the afternoon. Totally saturated with historically interesting tales a point of interest in the Abbey was the famous window which William Talbot used as the subject for the first negative / positive photograph. Walking through the rooms it was also of interest to note that Harry Potter was filmed here using the cloisters and basement for scenes. Finally we had a quick read and paraphrase of one of the few copies produced of the Magna Carta.

A walk through the lovely village of Lacock was not sufficient exercise to offset the carrot cake from the local baker-ess wearing complete 1800s attire. We enjoyed the streets used in the BBC productions of Pride and Prejudice and Emma while desperately trying to imagine the avenues with horse and buggy instead of cars.

Our final stop for the day would take us back 5000 years in time to a point where Avebury was home to a small developed farming community (not much has changed in that time evidently). Pondering the immense stone circles, long stone lined procession way and deep moats around the town rivals Stonehenge for intrigue, historic significance and mangnitude of effort to develop so long ago.

With the late afternoon sun on our shoulders we walked through wheat fields up the hill to admire the man-made Silbury Hill (commenced at the same time as the pyramids although not as impressive) and delved into the West Kennet Long Barrow burial chambers. Much of our current understanding of the healt, diet and rituals of ancient communities is learnt from the burial chambers making a visit both fascinating and ominous.

14 August

At the third campsite we had tried the night before we found ourselves approximately 10km outside of Oxford. We awoke to the drumming of heavy rain on the tent skin under an apple tree in the back paddock. Taking Sarah and Robs' advice (NZ friends in London) we decided to try the 'Park and Ride', a system of strategically placed parking lots linked by buses to the centre of town. A great idea to keep the crazy tourists out of the city and help maintain better air quality and less congested roads (think about it Sydney)

At the Royal Blenheim Pub we enjoyed a burger they claim to be the best in Oxford (SnC rating - 8/10). The rain finally subsided sufficiently for us to dash to Christ Church although there was no real need as we look like mountaineers in our wet weather gear. The famous dinning hall was used in Harry Potter and as it was presented ready for dinner it is easy to imaging the 100+ diners sitting to dinner under the watchful eye of the church leaders, or in Harry's case Dumbledore. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking town and hiding from the rain in a hot dank internet cafe blogging.

Back on the Park and Ride we extended our pantry inventory to include soy sauce which added the perfect element to a feast of rice and green vegetables whilst singing 'Don't sit under the apple tree with anyone else but meeee...'

Start - 1 August

At no extra charge our car (Vauxhall Holden Astra 4 Door) for the next 5 weeks was delivered to NZ Avenue and arrived at around 11 am. Without delay we vacated the loungeroom floor and returned it to its original state, stocked up at sainsburys ready for the British touring trip of a lifetime. Heading out we made it all of 10 km (or approximately 6 miles) to our first stop at Ham House and gardens managed by the National Trust (NT). Liz and Ken / Mum and Dad bought the membership as a Christmas present prior to our trip which we already realise will be a great asset during the trip. Ham House was of interest as we watched a documentary on the NT and Ham House which certainly added to the experience in real life. Unfortunately the kitchens were closed due to flooding in the recent rains but we are told the damage was minor.

Next stop was Canterbury with its fabulous cathedral which we were all of 1 minute late for entry however the outside and grounds were worth the visit, not to mention some of the old town houses and a quick walk along the fortifications.

2 August

Our morning started with a 2 hour walk through the NT managed White Cliffs of Dover coastline. It was great to be up before the rest of the daily visitors to this section of coast as we could enjoy the morning sea breeze alone together.

We continued through Dover, Flokstone and stopped in Rye watching the tide advancing over lunchtime, a quick poke around the antique shops and until we could not restrain ourselves any longer and bought lots of little items (chocolate covered sultanas from the lolly shop next door). Touring through the old fishing village of Hastings we turned right towards Battle to visit the site of the infamous clash of 1066 AD.

The theatrical audioguide and light sunshower left us with a real impression of the battle which shaped British history when William the Conqueror (formerly William the Bastard, truly) fought King Harold and won. At the cost of almost 7000 men in one day, including King Harold, the battle ground below our feet held more anguish than we will ever know. We valued the history lesson and our visit so much that we joined English Heritage on the spot to compliment our NT membership, now England is our oyster to discover all her treasures FREE.

Camping at Castle View Campground we could see Peversby Castle (funnily enough) and planned our visit for the morning.

3 August

Before the crowds associated with opening times wallked in we walked the grounds of Peversby Castle (admiring our campsite from the previous night) where William the Bastard (he hasn't won the battle at this point) and his army landed and prepared for the fight.

Our next stop was sunny Eastbournewith the beautiful early 19th century pier. We quickly became the source of amusement for the passing parade of locals as we had set up for a full buffet breakfast on the wall of the promenade. Muesli, fruit, tea, spreads and fresh bread was the order of the day and we are sure to have made those in the expensive restaurant behind us very jelous as we had the better view. Having reviewed the Lonely Planet commentary on Eastbourne we certainly agree that octogenarians choose this delightful town for thier holidays as evidenced by the embroided floral cardigans for sale and more park benches per mile of promenade than anywhere else on earth, we LOVED it.

Touring the coast with a stop at Birling Gap (NT) and the 7 sisters peaks we would argue that the white cliff views and beach access outshine Dover.

A short shopping stop in Seaford for camping repair supplies before perching on the cliffs for a hot self catered curry lunch. After lunch something came over Camilla which compelled her to take the drivers seat. In retrospect cruising through busy holiday spot Brighton and Hove was not as relaxing as the country lanes to follow. We had planned on going to the Isle of White for a day however when we found out that the ferry alone would be twice our daily budget and most of the campsites were already full due to the Cowes regatta we had to change our plans.

Feeling a little disheartened we made excellent use of our time in Portsmouth historic wharves before driving to Winchester campground. After a tiring day the last thing we needed was 4 semi-retired camping managers (yes it takes 4) to work out if they had any space for us we had to remain calm regarding the near empty paddock we passed on our way to reception. In the end they carefully guided us to our pitch with a smile.

4 August

A short stop at Northington Grange was all that was required to see the parklands and acropolis style columns at the front of the 18th century house, then onto Winchester town. We visited the city mill which is in full working order after NT took over management. Greeted at the door by the flour grinding manager complete with a spot of flour on his nose we learnt more in the subsequent 10 minutes about where bread comes from than we thought possible. It was great to see how they used to harness the rivers energy and a little sad to note that of the 90+ mills in the district only a few remain standing, and only this one still works. A beautiful walk along the river took us to Wovesley Castle (EH) ruins then past Jane Austen's final home opposite the spectacular Winchester Cathedral.

Leaving Winchester we made our way for lunch in the gardens of Mottisfont Abbey founded in 1201. In such a stately home there is no more fitting meal than baked bean sandwiches and tea, although a pan fried trout such as those in the river would have also sufficed.

As if today had not been busy enough it seemed logical to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine at Stonehenge. Fasttracked through long queues is one of the great benefits provided by NT or EH membership and once through the door we giggled at the audioguide speculations as "we really can't be certain", or our favourite "we don't know but...". Moments after we had left our speculations seem far more likely anyway. It is unfortunate the site has been overrun by tourists (shame we fall into the same category) as it would be far more fulfilling to have peace during a wander between the stones in reflection of the ancient past.

5 August

Our morning commenced at Kingston Lacy (NT) in the superb grounds before entering this impressive house. In particular the story of Corfe Castle siege and subsequent destruction made the viewing of the castle keys over the fireplace even more symbolic of the courage of one lady. Notable aspects of the house include the collection of Egyptian artefacts, working 16th century grandfather clock complete with original cat gut weight strings, and an extensive art collection including Rubens and Titian.

So, today is Sunday therefore nothing would be more fitting than a full roast lunch complete with trimmings in a dinky pub. Phelips Arms Hotel offered the perfect selection of yorkshire pudding, beef, pork, leek and whitesauce, home made apple sauce and super hot horse radish cream. After lunch we went into the Phelips family home (next door) called Montacute House. Built in 1588 and modified over the coming 300 years the key points of interest included a National Portrait Gallery collection on loan showing the royal lineage through the ages, Steves first attempt to write with a feather quill (no improvement noted) and THE RACE.

Camilla stood with the crowd eagerly watching as she clasped her lance and steadied her stead. Lauren dug her sparkling pink heels into the soft lawn and looked at her opponent with all the savagery and determination a 5 year old can muster. As the course fell behind in their wake, their trusty stallions pressed on as fast as their wooden rollers allowed, and their lances now burdened with the weight of straw rings glinted in the sun, it was Lauren by a nose in the end. Camilla commented in the stables after that her achilles was a lack of sparkling pink stilletos.

Our evening was spent at an adventure camp on the river Dart, where we swung through the trees on a big kids jungle gym complete with flying fox.

6 August

Camilla took the wheel with gusto thismorning as Steve navigated the way through the back lanes of Devon, past the steam railway to Berry Pommeroy Castle (EH). Although the castle is in partial ruins the audio tour was of great interest with detailed descriptions of life in the 15th and 16th century, and tales of the lingering ghosts from the family.

Munching on carrot sticks we delayed the hunger pains until after the Dartmouth car ferry to Dartmouth Castle (EH). After 2 minute noodles (please assume tea follows all main meals) we explored the cannon battery and now realise how much time is consumed in preparation for firing a cannon. Back in Dartmouth we wandered town, admired the harbour, watched the steam train depart across the estuary and realised how big the tides in this area really are as we saw yachts moored standing on thier keels in the mud.

Dartmouth is beautiful of course you already know that from the photo above.

7 August

No trip to the south of England is complete without a stop in Modbury (???). Camilla was drawn in to the local butcher by his broad smile and good looking rump. After receiving advice from Mr Butcher who has probably lived here for the last 70 years, and all the locals in the store, we were finally set on our way in search of the best Devonshire cream tea in town. Finding a spot in the sun we researched the matter of scone-jam-cream vs. scone-cream-jam fully and can report with little hesitation that we are equally happy with either option.

On the scenic tourist drive to Kingsbridge we saw nothing as the 8-10 foot high hedges are far taller than our car. Our destination was Lanhydrock House (NT), one of the finest examples we have come across depicting the sheer decadence and wealth of some families during the Victorian era. Before entering the house we walked alongside the vintage car shuttle taking visitors down the drive and set ourselves up in the cow paddock for rump steak sandwiches and unfortunately didn't make friends with Daisy.

National Trust has preserved and presented every room of Lanhydrock House with attention to the finest details, in particular the childrens wing complete with toys and bear skin rugs, fabulous 8 room kitchen taking up the majority of the downstairs, and the son's bedroom as he left it before going to war.

Near the end of the day we arrived at Cornwall's greatest fortress, Pendennis Castle (EH), developed by Henry VIII in the 16th century. Playing soldier saving damsel in distress (Steve doesn't make a very good damsel) we explored the keep, gun battery and war shelters on this sunny windswept peninsular until closing time.

There are 4 factors that will limit our level of detail in blogging over the coming weeks which we had not foreseen. Firstly, there is at least 10 times as many places of interest and things to do and see than we could have possibly imagined scattered throughout the English countryside. Secondly, the number of available internet computers is next to none in most small towns. Thirdly, in the past week (drafting this entry on 12 August) we have visited some of the most exquisite castles, estates and historic sites yet seen on our adventures abroad not to mention all the towns and villages in between. It has taken us each evening to plan the following day whilst leaving time to live life, eat, find a campsite and enjoy reflecting on the day that blogging is harder to get to than ever. Finally, and most surprisingly we have enjoyed almost perfect weather and therefore cannot bear to be indoors at a computer, moreso it seems foolish not to count our blessings and get sun burnt instead.

Given the above disclaimer which should be read as an apology to frequent readers our subsequent blogging efforts, we hope, you will enjoy with less words and more photos than ever before. Depicting our journey through Britain, Wales and Scotland should be even easier to relay in person as we will be home in under a month (which is really unbelievable).

Please also note the following for all subsequent entries.

Based on our recent experience over the last week we would like to make the following general statement regarding visits to houses, gardens, historic sites, castles and natural environments. If we add no commentary or specific descriptions to our notes for the photos please assume the following applies;

"Location 'X' presented us with a glorious/unsurpassed/exceptional/exquisite/enjoyable insight and/or educational experience during our visit to the beautiful/extensive/astounding/lush/fascinating etc. architectural/furnishings/artworks/gardens/prehistoric monoliths/collections from 2000BC to 2007AD. Location 'X' is well worth the visit and/or a must see if you are touring Britain. We would like to thank/compliment/offer our best to the English Heritage/National Trust for all their hard work/dedication/enthusiasm/fanaticism to maintain/conserve this site. "

We will endeavour to find an internet location soon, currently we are in Bath and about to have a BBQ with a couple of friendly Australians we met yesterday, best wishes.