Backpacking

Another ferry ride was awaiting us, this time however it would be a walk in the park at only 5 hours long. Camilla would not allow us to cut it fine this time so it was a 5am wakeup call, early arrival at the metro, quickstep to the wharf and there we were without a boat.

Watching the chaos from high above on an overhead walkway we looked forward to the next 2 weeks of island hopping the Cyclades (our video camera was solely responsible from here on in and did not know what hit it).

Arriving in the new port of Mykonos we were greeted by a sea of plaques and paper signs inviting tourists to follow hotel owners to their establishments. Spotting Mykonos Camping a mile off we made a bee line for the minibus to realise we were the only patrons. It was a luke warm greeting from the bus driver however we made it safe and sound over the island. Planting ourselves at the watersedge we set up camp with a splendid view of the bay.

Our days in Mykonos were spent exploring the main town, catching the 100 year old local bus, cooking bolognase back at the tent and generally doing bugger all. It was evident from the set-up at the campsite that Mykonos is a party island by reputation however as out of peak season travellers we were pleased to find that the place was practically ours.

Shopping became the order of the day as Camilla found herself squinting uncontrollably from the whitewash buildings in the glaring sun. Her first purchase was a pair of D&G shades worthy of a moviestar only looking better on her. Spurred on by this flurry of expenditure (doesn't one item count as a shopping spree...) Steve begged to be led to the only Camera store on the island.

With his jaw hanging limply Steve's forehead was firmly molded to the window Camilla peeled him from the glass. There in-front of us was an Olympus 8080-WZ, the finest 8 megapixel prosumer camera ever made. At the time of purchasing the ever reliable Olympus 5060-WZ 4 years ago Steve debated in his mind over and over to stretch out the budget and go for the 8080. It was time to bargain.

Leaving the store aghast at the result, we are now the proud owners of the last ever 8080-WZ manufactured for a quarter of its current RRP. What a steal and to top it off we don't even need to learn the functions as they are identical in most ways to the previous camera. Look out world it is time to pose for the shot.

Our afternoon was spent retracing our steps photographing those sites we had missed previously, enjoying the old windmills of Mykonos, Little Venice and then we ate greek salad under the setting sun on the wall of the old port.

Sitting in our room in Amalfi, bags packed we took a very long breath and sighed as we knew the journey would take almost 40 hours door to door. Excited at the prospect of seeing the Amalfi coast from the road we practically bounced down the laneway and spilled out into the bus terminal.

On long bus trips position is key. We sat as close to the driver as possible to get the best vantage point and bus maneuvering tips as we snake our way along this famous coastline. Sheer drops on the right side and gorgeous vistas looking east along the coast distracted us momentarily from the action in the drivers seat. Stunning sunrise and a great way to enjoy the road without the stress of having to dodge oncoming buses etc.

At Solerno we changed the mode of transportation to Italys finest old rattler for the 3 hour ride to Taranto where we would change to Brindisi. The view from the train varied from undulating countryside similar to the Tuscan landscape however it was dry in many parts (reminding us of home). One of the highlights of the train trip was when we entered the gorge about halfway and followed the winding passage through some tunnels and under the freeway structure (the other highlight was a prepacked lunch sufficient for the duration of the journey).

Brindisi, what can we say. In the spirit of the blog we are trying to remain positive about all locations and experiences, but...

Had a tumbleweed passed us by on the wide marble street as we walked, man and wife side by side, alone it would not have looked out of place. Chuckling to ourselves we utilised the only three shops open at what we thought would have been a peak business period, the ferry ticket office, gelateria and internet cafe (in that order).

Realising we had completed a few hundred kilometres of travel and feeling reassured by the ferry ticket in hand we sat down to enjoy our addiction, blogging. It is true, you the readers with your encouragement and positive feedback have lead us into the dark realms of being internet junkies.

It was an easy mistake retrospectively to leave a full hour to get from the internet cafe to the ferry, which in our minds would be a five minute walk down the main street via the supermarket. Little did we know that the ferry was actually a 10 minute speeding taxiride at 10 minutes to disembarkation. With Elvis playing quietly over the radio we knuckles went white as the taxi driver swerved in all directions whilst ranting about the crappy advice we had received from the ticket office regarding the free shuttle bus. If it weren't for our extorsionist taxi driver we would have missed the boat completely.

Throwing 20 euros at the port tax officer seemed almost like a bribe as the entire office willed us to start running for the ship. Camilla had already commenced her best effort to move her and 15 kilo backpack / supplies bag toward the vessel. In hot pursuit Steve was glancing between the final truck reversing in, beeping louder and louder as if mocking our progress, and those passengers on the back deck smuggly reminding each other that it is worth being an hour early. Amazing race audition complete our applications will be posted on our return.

Setting up camp in the 'Air Chairs' (sitting room only for cheap travellers such as yours truly) was a bit of a giggle. With all but the tent sprawled out between the back wall and row of seats in front we were the envy of all with our featherdown mats, sleeping bags and pjs. A quiet night of lolling with the ship sent us into a deep sleep interrupted marginally by the crew runnning through the ship annoucing the arrival at Corfu and two other ports (12am, 1.30am, 3am). Steve took the 3am opportunity to take a few shots of the sistership docking alongside in the cool night air and most importantly Camilla in camp.

GREECE

Not knowing where the sea borders start and stop we assumed we arrived in Greece when the first rope was wrapped around the bollard at Patras. Now late moning our entertainment came in the form of watching all the passengers, trucks, farming equipment etc. unload from the ship and ensueing chaos on the dock.

Our mission was to make our way to Athens (read across the whole of Greece) in time to find a decent cheap hotel in the heart of the city. Asking at the train station for the next connection we were informed it would arrive at 12 midday. Thinking that an hour and 10 minutes was a long time to wait after a 20 hour boat ride we walked 200 metres to the bus station. Informed that the next bus would leave NOW we bought tickets, re-read them as we raced for the bus and at that point realised we had changed timezones. It was almost 3 pm when we arrived in Athens bus terminal.

Camilla continually needs to remind Steve that it is important not to write off a city by it's bus terminal and surrounding neighbourhood. With a shrug we offloaded the coach and made our way through the metro network (a crude ordeal of 2 buses and a few train lines) to Plaka. A narrow maze of shopping streets and small squares overlooked by the Acropolis, which at this point we had not clearly viewed, we got rejected from a couple of hotels / hostels which were full before finding our oasis. On the best street, within 2 minutes walk of the acopolis we settled into the Travellers Inn for a reasonable tariff and ignoring the continual reference by the manager that the room was in the basement (literally).

Keen for a taste of the city we walked entirely 20 steps across the way to the local bakery. Greeted by the lovely shopkeep we ordered one of every cookie she makes and settled down to a gorge fest. Content that we were still alive and kicking after the long haul travel we continued along the street blindly climbing higher and higher. Afronted by a narrow passage between the rock and small whitewashed houses we emerged smack bang under the Acropolis overlooking Athens in its entireity.

Athens is enormous beyond what we thought and to add to the spectacle the entire city is a sea of whitewashed roof tops a nonsensical network of lanes and roads. It is not surprising when viewing Athens from above that this city has grown over an extensive 2500+ year history. From behind a graffiti covered (not so whitewashed) wall we looked down the hill to a rooftop wedding celebration. With traditional music reverberating off the cliff behind us we paused a long while to admire the vista in the setting afternoon sun.

Dinner and desert was as typical as it gets, 2x gyros (mini kebab), chips, coke, free baclava to taste sitting in an ancient archeological site only metres from our hostel. After dinner we headed to a bar which caught our eye, impossible to miss really with hundred upon hundreds of backlit bottles of coloured liquid lining the walls up to the 30 foot ceiling. We each enjoyed a glass of local wine, chatted to the Canadian Minister for Tax in British Columbia and struggled to finish our thimble full of ouzo.

Day 1 Athens - 28 May

As we were greated with a smile each of the subsequent visits to the nearby bakery it was a nobrainer to guess where we had breakfast. Steve was let loose to order which resulted in sufficient food for morning tea and lunch also. Optimistic at first that the rain would hold it became apparent on the first mouthful that today would be pouring. Undetered we dodged the raindrops back to the hostel and equipped ourselves in full wet weather battle attire.

Taking the route we discovered the previous afternoon up the hill to the Acropolis we arrived at the gate, cash in hand, ready to purchase a superpass for all the Athens sites. There is nothing more satisfying to budget travellers than to realise you have landed unplanned in Athens on Holy Spirit Day and therefore all museums and monuments are FREE. Rome first, now Athens, we are feeling lucky. Little did we know our luck would run out shortly.

Standing at the entrance to the acropolis and looking back through the windows of the 2nd century BC ampitheatre over Athens is fantastic. Surrounded by some of the most recognisable ancient monuments in existence gives little people like us a perspective on the length of time and generations which have preceded us. Although not intricately detailed and currently undergoing significant restoration work the Acropolis is still a wonderful site to explore. To think that all those centuries ago democracy was born in the walls of these towering marble masterpieces is humbling.

Battling the wind, rain and tourists whilst jumping between puddles and avoiding the tourist group leader with the deafening whistle (Camilla suggested a cattledog may do the trick also) we found sufficient time to soak in our surrounds, pardon the punn.

Descending the acropolis we snaked our way around ancient buriel grounds to Ancient Agora, the marketplace of Athina. Camilla's feet were becoming increasing soaked (read the disclaimer on the Merrill website about the difference between Waterproof and WATERPROOF and tell us if we should have known) we marvelled at the well preserved buildings and drainage systems.

Shortly after this moment Steve suffered a horribly debilitating accident. Slipping on the wet marble stonework underfoot (who knows what the ancient greeks did when it rained), the moment in time would have been perfect to capture on camera had it not been for the fact that said photographic equipment was airborne. Plummeting to the ground and stopping with a satisfying crack then rolling slightly into a puddle Steve let out a short yelp (had the cattle dog been there it may have replied).

Glaring at the sky and cursing the close proximity of the puddle to the landing place Steve commenced an hour long grieving process whereby he thumbed and caressed the limp camera equipment. Knowning it had probably captured in excess of 40,000 images in the last 4 years it was time to say goodbye.

Our tour of Athens came to screaming halt as the rain thickened, marble staircases turned into waterfalls all around and Camilla's feet started to squelch. We scurried around the commercial district nearby to replenish our gas supplies knowing full well the only solution was tea. After argueing with the sales manager that Merrill owed us our entire holiday expediture back in full we retreated to our basement to dry our hair.

Satisfied we had seen Athens great monuments in a different light, many smarter tourists would have delayed, we bought a ferry ticket to the sunny shores of Mykonos and completed the evening with Gyros, chips and coke (sound familiar?) Athens is worth the visit, rain, hail, damaged camera equipment or shine. You can sense how quickly time passes humanity when standing there knowning that only a few centuries ago western democratic civilisation was conceived.

The ferry from Capri took us past the uninhabited westerly point of the Amalfi coastline stopping briefly in Positano for a glimps of the colourful terraced settlement before arriving at Amalfi.

Steve: Excuse me, I am sorry I don't speak Italian, I have a few questions regarding accommodation
Tourist Office Lady: (glare)
Steve: Where is the closest camping please
Tourist Office Lady: 40 minutes by bus up hill (glare)
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there camping in Positano
Tourist Office Lady: how many nights and how much do you want to spend
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there any accommodation in Amalfi for 50 euros or less?
Tourist Office Lady: (absolute silence, picks up phone, loud rude conversation in Italian) He will pick you up here in 5 minutes.
Steve and Camilla converse privately although there was no real time as we were presently being led through whitewashed narrow footpaths behind a friendly local.

Thankfully our fully self-contained 50 euro, 2 bedroom (6 person) apartment, locked in the labyrinth of streets and passageways, allowed us the pleasure of hearing the guitarist sing into the night from the nearby trattoria, look out under a cathedral dome ceiling from the balcony and cook up some pretty damn pork surloin wraps, salads, bangers and mash. This was far from what we expected from the tourist office lady.

We loved the place so much we decided without needing to consult privately that two nights was in order. Amalfi is one of those typical, incredible seaside Italian towns with abundant history, cool white alleyways for pedestrians, great food, great views of the coastline. Wonderful stoppover to spend a few days nursing our upset at leaving Capri.

Our days were spent as if holidaying anywhere in the world. Long afternoon naps, strolling (not hiking), gazing lovingly at our surrounds and each other and eating way too much good food.

We only experienced one dissappointment during this stage of the journey. While Camilla listened to her iPod late on the evening before our departure Steve wondered down to the Marina for a bit of daydreaming. Striking up conversation with the owner, skipper and crew of a nice little Australian registered 62 foot navy blue Moody sloop it was established that they too were departing tomorrow for Greece. A five day journey around the south of Italy followed by a week or two of island hopping.

Picturing with vivid clarity the upcoming 32 hours of bus, train and ferry travel Steve launched (as subtly as possible) into discussion over the possibility that they would benefit from two enthusiastic, fit, lightweight, happy and self-sufficient competent crew. Met with enthusiasm the Skipper, also named Steve, polity offered the following teaser, 'we would be delighted to have you on board (excruciatingly long pause)... however the way we are set and provisioned for tomorrows departure it would be a little difficult, maybe next time as we would love to have you join us'.

Entering the hotel room exclaiming at the top of his lungs 'I have just had the most upsetting experience!' Camilla was not only startled but thought the worst. We TRIED not to think of what would have been the following days. Better to try and have lost than to never have tried at all.

Unfortunately our small daily travel budget could not stretch to the extent that we bought the Isle of Capri, instead we settled on the picturesque Piccolo Marina in the postcard perfect Villa Krupp. Needless to say the upgrade from the tent in the dirt where we awoke that morning brought a big smile to the birthday girl on this special day. Happy 26th Birthday Camilla.

Content on reading Harry Potter, being served tea on demand, eating soup on the balcony and sleeping half the afternoon on a real pillow was ample indulgence for the day. Our evening of further celebration commenced with the purchase of the present, Camilla's first (and possibly only) Italian designer bikini followed by drinks in the square. Vino Spumante Dolce, Barghetto l'Aquie is highly recommended if you like a cool sparkling port which incidently has become Camilla's favourite drink of all time.

Leaving the people watching post in the main square we strolled only metres around the corner to the restaurant overlooking the main port, funiculaire and cliffs of Capri. Dinner was delightful with superb meat in real portions served with baked vegetables and completely un-Italian. Our most expensive bottle of wine (ever) was perfect. To top off the experience, and totally unplanned by Steve, a hord of Italian tenors (the entire waitstaff) sang at the top of their lungs 'Happy Birthday'. Some of the restaurant joined in too which was lovely, if not necessary in order for Camilla to be able to hear anything over the sound of the fireworks on the cake under her nose.

Day 1 - 23 May

Now a little older and a little wiser the day consisted of breakfast, Harry Potter, lunch, swim in the Mediterranean, sunbake, dinner, Harry Potter, sleep on pillow. Perfect.

Day 2 - 24 May

Reluctantly packing our bags, finishing off our complimentary breakfast (thankyou Villa Krupp) and taking one last look off our balcony it was a sad day to leave this southern italian paradise. To ease our sense of loss we went directly to the boat hire hut and got ourselves a vessel. In the 'Capri Boat', a 17 foot speed boat with sun lounge and annoying speed limiting peg we set out to circumnavigate the island. Nearly a whole 20 minutes later and we had anchored in our own private bay. Able to see through the deep azure blue water we could not resist the allure any longer.

(Note new bikini)

On our side of the island we could see the balcony, travelled between and under the rock arches, explored coves and dodged the spray on the southern tip as it became quite windy.

Seeing the pain and anguish on Steve's face as he handed back the keys was not pretty but a consoling swim at the main beach waiting for the ferry calmed him down somewhat. Capri is absolutely stunning, well worth a vist even if you don't have the excuse we did to blow the budget (which is now referred to as the black hole and will not be included in any calculations).

Awaking in Rome with thumping hayfever we realised that the right decision had been made to leave this magnificent city behind us and work our way south. We both knew that a trip to Europe would not be complete without a trip of a fast train and wow did it impress.

For an additional 16 euros (66 total) we had window seats of the 250km/h missile through the gorgeous Italian countryside to Naples. After only two hours of smooth rocket like travel we looked at each other with raised eyebrows at the next train to Sorrento (barely visible through the dirt and graffiti).

The great thing about the circumvesuvius train line is that you get a view of the great volcano Vesuvius. Sorrento was a hot rattling 1 hour + trip worth the effort. Perched on the hillside our campsite overlooked the Bay of Naples with a direct view at the volcano.

Our plan at this point was simple, take in as much as possible of the Pompei archeological site then climb the culprit in the afternoon.

Pompei - 21 May

Back on the rattler (narrow gauge circumvesuvius train) in the morning it took just under an hour to reach Pompei. We invested in a detailed and well illustrated guidebook to help us with our exploration. Proving very useful (at helping us trip over ancient broken lavarock paths) we wandered around reading the book out to each other in the glaring sunshine. The grid design street layout is well signposted for a 2000 year old city with huge steps and stepping stones for such small people.

Off the main drag there were numerous rooms and frameworks of houses with fireplaces, bedrooms and mosaic flooring. The better presserved homes of the wealth families even have the atriums, artworks, frescoes and skylights still in near perfect condition (give or take some ware and tear, small volcanic eruptions and 400 years of haphazard excavation). Camilla found it funny to pretend to play shop in the near perfect marbletop kitchen take-a-way shop.

After almost 3 hours of systematic investigations of each major relic and point of interest we ventured outside for a quick bite to eat. Mamma was sitting at the door calling our stomachs in for some homecookin, with zero reluctance our bodies followed. Fully satisfied in the small diner we had a new bout of energy to take on the other half of Pompei. After asking at the side entrace politely, begging, claiming ignorance, glaring and then finally being belligerent we overcame the one-entry-per-day policy (of which we were sincerely ignorant) and returned to the mission at hand.

As the day rolled on we explored the majority of the main squares, political building, chatted with other Aussies then decided we were completely full. The Pompei sight is such a unique experience where as amature adventurers we felt often like we were walking into someone's home. It was so sad to see the faces and casts of victims who were not quick enough to escape.

Relics are so well preserved it gives you the opportunity to see and better understand what their world would have been like. It is a shame (however understandable) that the pots, ornaments, jewellery and other small relics are not left in place as they were found. Most signficant finds are housed in the Naples Musuem or in lockup cages on site.

At the train station we were not only exhausted but 10 minutes late for the last bus up Vesuvius. Reluctantly we decided to leave the mission hear and return for celbratory drinks back at the campsite. Celebration you ask? Camilla is still less than half 50 years old. As youth slips from her grasp she gasps aloud over dinner "It's my birthday at home, I'm old!" before pouring a big glass (read plastic travel mug) of wine.

Based on simple calculations Camilla concluded that her birthda would be 32 hours long and therefore should be celebrated for the next 4 days. Steve agreed wholeheartedly as celebrations would include food, wine, upgraded accommodation and general relaxation. Iles of Capri here we come.