Italy

Finding our train in Venice out in the back paddock after passing all the swish Italian high speed bullets was a little concerning. It would be a 4.5 hour trip all stops to Trento in the north east of Italy. Thankfully the train was very smooth so we spent most of the time reading Dan Brown (Deception Point) which was finished later that evening.

Stopping in Trento we were a little restless given that we had not adequately researched the area and had no idea where the best access to the famous Dolomite ranges would be found. After talking briefly with the train and bus attendants we stumbled across the tourism board in a side street who informed us that the Val de Fassa would be the best start. With Canazei now in our sights we committed to a 3 hour bus tour (all stops domestic) high into the Dolomite ranges and relaxed in Trento town square for gelato and frappe.

Canazei - 17 June

Europe has certainly got the accommodationless tourist thing down to a fine art. Our scenic bus trip was fantastic and dropped us right infront of the town accommodation booking board, a large electronic listing with map and free phone of all available rooms in town. We debated the benefits of setting up tent at 9:30pm in the mountains and somehow Camilla seemed to quiet easily convince the pack mule that a comfy Penzion would be best. As we fell asleep we could hardly believe that a 1 star penzion with breakfast in this beautiful location could be so reasonably priced. Having planned to stay only one night then relocate to the campsite the following day we somehow ended up confirming another 2 nights.

Day 1 - 18 June

After a wonderful nights sleeps and completely stuffing ourselves with breakfast we retired back to our balcony, complete with valley and mountain views for a relaxing read. Strolling through town late in the afternoon we crossed the fast flowing river and walked through the woods for about half an hour. Settling on a big comfy park bench we discussed life, the universe and everything. Without resolve we have come to the conclusion that extended travel is a valuable part of our personal and relationship development, thankfully there is still another 12 weeks to go.

Eating a home cooked meal of pesto burgers we decided that the following days challenge would be to summit Piz Boe and explore the Sella Gruppa mountain in the Dolomites. To cheers this conclusion we had come across a bottle of the Spumante Dolce Barghetto d'Aqui in the supermarket which we had previously enjoyed in Capri. What a great end to a lovely day.

Day 2 - 19 June - THE CLIMB

Although some of you may argue that a gondola and two very large cable cars is cheating however we could not see ourselves completing an ascent from 1450m above sea level to 3152 into a midday stroll (read: gruelling 6 hour alpine endurance).

Rising up above the thick forest in the godola we immediately boarded the first cable car to be lifted higher than Kosciosko. With an imposing view of the valley from a small precipice our adreneline and excitment had risen to new heights. A short 40 minute walk across the top of the ski fields gave us ample opportunity to admire the green grass, spring flowers and day dream about this area covered in thick snow. At the base of the final Pass Pordoi cable car we could see the top station clinging to the cliff edge high above.

The Dolomite mountain ranges, in particular the Sella Gruppa are an ancient seabed which rose around 300 million years ago to an average height in excess of 2500 metres. Impressive vistas throughout the region include the jaggered mountain faces and large risen plateaus. In the afternoon a rose colour can be seen in the rock and close up it is possible to make out fossilised corals and small crystals. Camilla was at an advantage on this climb as yesterday she invested in a pair of indestructable ASOLO mountain hiking monster boots.

Having reached the top of Pass Pordoi cable car and making our way across the first 2 or 3 snow drifts it was obvious that the boots were a great investment. Precariously narrow trodden paths through the snow and around the cliff edges connected large expanses of open gently sloping hills. Coming to the base of the final ascent we crossed crunchy brilliant white rock and stopped for the final energy fix.

Approximately 45 minutes worth of 1:1 grade climbing was heavy going, particularly the technical sections where permanent cable railings were essential. We felt confident in our capacity to achieve this minor gravity defying exertion in that the 4 and 5 year olds were not overtaking us too rapidly. Notably, the air is thinner at 3152 metres than our homes in Pennant Hills at 50 metres which of course is the only reason our fit athletic bodies would require us to puff and pant (yeah right!)

Having little time to admire the views with our faces firmly fixed on the next step up it was a welcome reward to finally reach the summit. There is little that can be said that is not obvious in our smiles on the photos. What a feeling.

Downhill, for some unknown reason, was by far the hardest section. With jelly legs on slippery rocks and snow we took our time and only used the derrier and additional limbs when necessary. Thankfully our timing was spot on as we caught on of the last few cable cars down to the bottom. Camilla was given the task on the limp back to the penzion to recite all of the sound of music songs in chronological order in preparation for Salzburg.

Having now tasted the European alpine environment, immersed ourselves in the aroma of spring flowers on the hills and completed a (fairly) rigorous climb we are now truly itching to see this place in winter. The Dolomites are both unique in that they are the only coral mountains at this height in the world and present stunning vistas in every direction. Very Cool.

Arrival - 13 June

Having been shuttled from the port to the main bus station in Venice our accommodation options were merely a dozen phone calls away. It is way more difficult communicating your needs over the phone without the accompanying arm flailings, thankfully each hotel had multilingual staff making the job that much easier.

Having confirmed a night in well positioned and priced 1 star hotel we gave the ambitious estimate that we would be there in 15 minutes. From our location and using the trusty map it looks like it was due east so how hard could that be...

With compass in hand and morning sun position as a guide we were amazed to find how quickly we were staring up a canal from a narrow footpath with nowhere to go! Traditional navigation methods aside we resorted to the best known team orientation method where Steve chooses a street to turn, then Camilla, then Steve and so forth. Incredibly all it took was 30 minutes to find our way perfectly to the Targhetto at the fresh fish markets.

A Targhetto is the workhorse of the gondola family whereby occupants pay 50 cents each to stand (crammed like sardines) into a 25 foot long boat that is less than a metre wide in order to cross the grand canal. Ordinarily this task would be manageable however Sardines don't often carry 50 kilograms worth of mountain camping equipment. With every breath each of us took the boat heaved and rocked sickeningly as we stared blankly across one of the busiest waterways in Europe. Like all good Aussie travellers it was "no worries mate".

Our hotel was more like a small room at the bottom of a real hotel where you place you unwelcome long distance family members when they drop in unannounced. Welcomed by the owner clearly stating we only have one night available and told that our room is hours away from being ready we gladly headed off into the maze like streets to explore.

Into the daylight it was evident what was on our minds, Camilla made a bee line to the closest Venetian glass ring shop whilst Steve pressed his forehead against the window of the butcher next door. Given that it was still only 9 am we compromised on a bakery breakfast of fresh spinach and ricotta pie and fruitcake filled pastry.

Where in the world is better to be entranced by the mesmirising bobs and ducks of thousands of boats. Venice is simply heaven to get lost wandering and admiring a life that vastly different to any we have seen. It became obvious that since every street and canal is of interest you are only ever truly lost if have somewhere particular to be. Thankfully for the next 4 nights we had nowhere else we would rather be.

As if we had a new bout of energy our afternoon waiting for the hotel room was spent feeding pigeons in San Marco square which Camilla was originally reluctant to participate until finally letting out squeals of delight. After fattening the sky rats we admired the grand canal and Rialto bridge, watched the sun set from Ponte Acedemia and listened to classical guitar in the square where we later bought his CD in appreciation.

Day 1 - 14 June

Greeted with a hot chocolate and pastries for breakfast in the hotel we bounced out the front door full of beans and ready to soak up the city. The city on the other hand took it literally and decided to pour for the exact time it took to buy umbrellas and cross the canal (less encumbered) on the targhetto to the fish markets. Our objective was to purchase the very best local seafood in Venice and sit by a canal over lunch time cooking up a storm. We are amazed at how efficiently two hungry backpackers can polish off a kilo of hot mussels, fresh scampi and a bottle of sweet bubbly if given the chance.

At the end of the final tasty morcel the meal was topped off by an unexpected (sort of planned but that is unimportant) call from Jenni - Steve's sister. It is great to hear familiar voices and only amplyfies how much we miss everyone at home. Alternatively, it seems like a far better idea if everyone just joined us over here!

Full as a googie egg from our seafood nosh, and in tact after a near death experience when opening the warm bubbly (Steve's red mark on his forehead has now faded) we passed a canal which was in the process of being cleaned. Each canal is refurbished, maintained and cleaned every 10 years to avoid excess pollution, degredation to foundations etc. Blocked off at each end, the canals are about 2 to 3 metres deep and get drained dryish, certainly an interesting site to see.

Unfortunately our afternoon was marginally hampered by the fact that we need to move hotels across town. Having found an even better location within 2 minutes of St Marks Square and a vastly improved room at a similar rate we navigated our way easily through the maze.

Cooking the remainder of the fresh seafood on the bathroom window sill was a little precarious as we had to lean over the biddae! We tried fresh sardines labouriously filleted by Steve then followed by a big Salmon Steak chaser. A great day of culinary delights in a great city.

Day 2 - 15 June

Eager to get out on the water we made plans to visit the Murano glass houses out in the lagoon and travel around by Vaporetto (ferries) to explore the city with the locals. Murano is a well organised little island where tourists are ushered down to the demonstration glass blowing room before being herded into the souvenir shop. 30 seconds later and we broke away from the flock to make our own way through the rest of the island. Camilla finally found her treasure, a beautiful Murano glass ring, deeply blue with an aqua shimmer within like the ocean.

Our stomachs recalled the previous days indulgence and therefore commenced calling us forth with goodies. Overpaying the bakery for a few rolls was quickly shadowed by the experience of purchasing local vegetables and fruits from the old grocerer in a canal boat.

Armed with a hot BBQ chicken, rolls and other delights we island hopped back one towards Venice for a picnic and realised we had landed ourselves in the major Catholic cemetery. Without too much discussion we were back on another boat post haste and held off until the stop opposite St Marks and the large shipping chanel. Planting ourselves next to a tree on the concrete it was delightful watching Venice from such a vantage point.

Ferry # 82 is worth remembering as it takes cheapskates like us all the way along the Grand Canal as part of the basic commuter ticket. With the front seats on the ferry it was almost an hour later that we had circumnavigated all of Venice and had the pleasure of joining the Gondolas, water taxis and targhettos up the Grand Canal.

The opportunity to sit in one of the great music halls built in 1580 and listen to Vivaldi's 4 seasons, Pachebel's Canone (Camilla walked down the isle to this piece) and other hits from way back when was not to be missed. As if a great dollop of cream had been added to the icing on the cake the poor buggers were dressed in vitage XVIII century regailia. What a treat to see a violin virtuoso (whos name now escapes us) fill the hall with exquisitely detailed sounds, a true highlight.

So inspired are we from the passion which this great music evoked in us we have committed personally, to each other and those poor souls who will no doubt be subject to the endless practice that it is time we take up (or renew) the piano (Steve) and guitar (Camilla). Further review upon our return may ensue. To top off the evening we had 30 seconds left on our boat ticket so we hopped onto the # 82 back down the grand canal at night and disembarked at San Marco.

To our great surprise, and unfortunate delight, St Marks square was rapidly filling with the incoming tide. Persistent in thier quest to entertain their patrons the three famous coffee houses put on a musical show on raised platforms. Dancing in the puddles (thank goodness for Aussie thongs) we waltzed to the greats and swing danced the rest. Reflecting every whisp of light the water that engulfs St Marks so regularly makes for a dazzling portrait of city that is in immanent danger of being lost to all.

Day 3 - 16 June

Exploring the remainder of Venice was as easy as being determined to get lost for a few hours. What a pleasure wondering the narrow alleys, crossing numerous plazzasa and bridges, and oggling every bakery window. En route we caught the targhetto to the fish markets, argued a bit over the need for meat versus squid then gave in to each other and bought both.

At the train station we were blessed with the greatest timing and highlight of the lost traveller experiences. A poor little tourist (no indication of nationality required) came bounding up to us bewildered and asked with sincere concern "Is this Venice???". With the gondolas bobbing only just over our shoulders it was difficult to keep our total shock and disbelief behind our poker faces. Steve calmy replied [i]"I believe so... eh ... good luck".

Our final afternoon was spent cooking, watching the world go by from the top of St Marks tower which affords the most fabulous view of Venice and then finally dancing in the square as the tide pushes up relentlessly.

Leaving in the early on a Sunday morning the air was filled with church bells while the streets were empty. At this moment we knew for certain that one day we would be back.

Venice must be visited at least a couple of times throughout to be truly appreciated. We hope you all get the pleasure of spending time in this fragile and rewarding city.

The ferry from Capri took us past the uninhabited westerly point of the Amalfi coastline stopping briefly in Positano for a glimps of the colourful terraced settlement before arriving at Amalfi.

Steve: Excuse me, I am sorry I don't speak Italian, I have a few questions regarding accommodation
Tourist Office Lady: (glare)
Steve: Where is the closest camping please
Tourist Office Lady: 40 minutes by bus up hill (glare)
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there camping in Positano
Tourist Office Lady: how many nights and how much do you want to spend
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there any accommodation in Amalfi for 50 euros or less?
Tourist Office Lady: (absolute silence, picks up phone, loud rude conversation in Italian) He will pick you up here in 5 minutes.
Steve and Camilla converse privately although there was no real time as we were presently being led through whitewashed narrow footpaths behind a friendly local.

Thankfully our fully self-contained 50 euro, 2 bedroom (6 person) apartment, locked in the labyrinth of streets and passageways, allowed us the pleasure of hearing the guitarist sing into the night from the nearby trattoria, look out under a cathedral dome ceiling from the balcony and cook up some pretty damn pork surloin wraps, salads, bangers and mash. This was far from what we expected from the tourist office lady.

We loved the place so much we decided without needing to consult privately that two nights was in order. Amalfi is one of those typical, incredible seaside Italian towns with abundant history, cool white alleyways for pedestrians, great food, great views of the coastline. Wonderful stoppover to spend a few days nursing our upset at leaving Capri.

Our days were spent as if holidaying anywhere in the world. Long afternoon naps, strolling (not hiking), gazing lovingly at our surrounds and each other and eating way too much good food.

We only experienced one dissappointment during this stage of the journey. While Camilla listened to her iPod late on the evening before our departure Steve wondered down to the Marina for a bit of daydreaming. Striking up conversation with the owner, skipper and crew of a nice little Australian registered 62 foot navy blue Moody sloop it was established that they too were departing tomorrow for Greece. A five day journey around the south of Italy followed by a week or two of island hopping.

Picturing with vivid clarity the upcoming 32 hours of bus, train and ferry travel Steve launched (as subtly as possible) into discussion over the possibility that they would benefit from two enthusiastic, fit, lightweight, happy and self-sufficient competent crew. Met with enthusiasm the Skipper, also named Steve, polity offered the following teaser, 'we would be delighted to have you on board (excruciatingly long pause)... however the way we are set and provisioned for tomorrows departure it would be a little difficult, maybe next time as we would love to have you join us'.

Entering the hotel room exclaiming at the top of his lungs 'I have just had the most upsetting experience!' Camilla was not only startled but thought the worst. We TRIED not to think of what would have been the following days. Better to try and have lost than to never have tried at all.

Unfortunately our small daily travel budget could not stretch to the extent that we bought the Isle of Capri, instead we settled on the picturesque Piccolo Marina in the postcard perfect Villa Krupp. Needless to say the upgrade from the tent in the dirt where we awoke that morning brought a big smile to the birthday girl on this special day. Happy 26th Birthday Camilla.

Content on reading Harry Potter, being served tea on demand, eating soup on the balcony and sleeping half the afternoon on a real pillow was ample indulgence for the day. Our evening of further celebration commenced with the purchase of the present, Camilla's first (and possibly only) Italian designer bikini followed by drinks in the square. Vino Spumante Dolce, Barghetto l'Aquie is highly recommended if you like a cool sparkling port which incidently has become Camilla's favourite drink of all time.

Leaving the people watching post in the main square we strolled only metres around the corner to the restaurant overlooking the main port, funiculaire and cliffs of Capri. Dinner was delightful with superb meat in real portions served with baked vegetables and completely un-Italian. Our most expensive bottle of wine (ever) was perfect. To top off the experience, and totally unplanned by Steve, a hord of Italian tenors (the entire waitstaff) sang at the top of their lungs 'Happy Birthday'. Some of the restaurant joined in too which was lovely, if not necessary in order for Camilla to be able to hear anything over the sound of the fireworks on the cake under her nose.

Day 1 - 23 May

Now a little older and a little wiser the day consisted of breakfast, Harry Potter, lunch, swim in the Mediterranean, sunbake, dinner, Harry Potter, sleep on pillow. Perfect.

Day 2 - 24 May

Reluctantly packing our bags, finishing off our complimentary breakfast (thankyou Villa Krupp) and taking one last look off our balcony it was a sad day to leave this southern italian paradise. To ease our sense of loss we went directly to the boat hire hut and got ourselves a vessel. In the 'Capri Boat', a 17 foot speed boat with sun lounge and annoying speed limiting peg we set out to circumnavigate the island. Nearly a whole 20 minutes later and we had anchored in our own private bay. Able to see through the deep azure blue water we could not resist the allure any longer.

(Note new bikini)

On our side of the island we could see the balcony, travelled between and under the rock arches, explored coves and dodged the spray on the southern tip as it became quite windy.

Seeing the pain and anguish on Steve's face as he handed back the keys was not pretty but a consoling swim at the main beach waiting for the ferry calmed him down somewhat. Capri is absolutely stunning, well worth a vist even if you don't have the excuse we did to blow the budget (which is now referred to as the black hole and will not be included in any calculations).

Awaking in Rome with thumping hayfever we realised that the right decision had been made to leave this magnificent city behind us and work our way south. We both knew that a trip to Europe would not be complete without a trip of a fast train and wow did it impress.

For an additional 16 euros (66 total) we had window seats of the 250km/h missile through the gorgeous Italian countryside to Naples. After only two hours of smooth rocket like travel we looked at each other with raised eyebrows at the next train to Sorrento (barely visible through the dirt and graffiti).

The great thing about the circumvesuvius train line is that you get a view of the great volcano Vesuvius. Sorrento was a hot rattling 1 hour + trip worth the effort. Perched on the hillside our campsite overlooked the Bay of Naples with a direct view at the volcano.

Our plan at this point was simple, take in as much as possible of the Pompei archeological site then climb the culprit in the afternoon.

Pompei - 21 May

Back on the rattler (narrow gauge circumvesuvius train) in the morning it took just under an hour to reach Pompei. We invested in a detailed and well illustrated guidebook to help us with our exploration. Proving very useful (at helping us trip over ancient broken lavarock paths) we wandered around reading the book out to each other in the glaring sunshine. The grid design street layout is well signposted for a 2000 year old city with huge steps and stepping stones for such small people.

Off the main drag there were numerous rooms and frameworks of houses with fireplaces, bedrooms and mosaic flooring. The better presserved homes of the wealth families even have the atriums, artworks, frescoes and skylights still in near perfect condition (give or take some ware and tear, small volcanic eruptions and 400 years of haphazard excavation). Camilla found it funny to pretend to play shop in the near perfect marbletop kitchen take-a-way shop.

After almost 3 hours of systematic investigations of each major relic and point of interest we ventured outside for a quick bite to eat. Mamma was sitting at the door calling our stomachs in for some homecookin, with zero reluctance our bodies followed. Fully satisfied in the small diner we had a new bout of energy to take on the other half of Pompei. After asking at the side entrace politely, begging, claiming ignorance, glaring and then finally being belligerent we overcame the one-entry-per-day policy (of which we were sincerely ignorant) and returned to the mission at hand.

As the day rolled on we explored the majority of the main squares, political building, chatted with other Aussies then decided we were completely full. The Pompei sight is such a unique experience where as amature adventurers we felt often like we were walking into someone's home. It was so sad to see the faces and casts of victims who were not quick enough to escape.

Relics are so well preserved it gives you the opportunity to see and better understand what their world would have been like. It is a shame (however understandable) that the pots, ornaments, jewellery and other small relics are not left in place as they were found. Most signficant finds are housed in the Naples Musuem or in lockup cages on site.

At the train station we were not only exhausted but 10 minutes late for the last bus up Vesuvius. Reluctantly we decided to leave the mission hear and return for celbratory drinks back at the campsite. Celebration you ask? Camilla is still less than half 50 years old. As youth slips from her grasp she gasps aloud over dinner "It's my birthday at home, I'm old!" before pouring a big glass (read plastic travel mug) of wine.

Based on simple calculations Camilla concluded that her birthda would be 32 hours long and therefore should be celebrated for the next 4 days. Steve agreed wholeheartedly as celebrations would include food, wine, upgraded accommodation and general relaxation. Iles of Capri here we come.