Spain

Valencia to Barcelona

Ouch, an early start again. We thought the idea of avoiding organised tours was that you set your own timetable! There was a bus to catch on the other side of the historic town of Valencia so while the Spannish got over Sangria from the night before we toddled off.

What a flash ride. The only thing the ride lacked was wings with leather seats and polite service, free tea (lucky or Steve may just keel over and give up) and very chatty Spannish stewardess.

Our arrival was celebrated with drizzle, and to add a smallish insult to injury we couldn't find the next bus stop following the Lonely Planet directions. It was here that we became determined that regardless of fatigue, heavy packs and hunger that we would camp even if it the site was on the moon.

Where in the world is Cassadefels you ask? It is well and truly past the stop for our campsite. Lunch was enjoyed sitting in another bus stop about 30km south of the city we intended to visit tomorrow.

Barcelona - 5 April (WE SURVIVED)

It rained for most of the evening however our tent is rated for 100km winds, snow etc. therefore we emerged warm and dry (PHEW).

In Barcelona we were among the few crazy tourists out that day so we took advantage and walked to the top of Monjuic Palacia Nacional for an equisite view across the rooftops. From this angle Barcelona is similar in many ways to Paris with a few notable architectural monuments jutting out of a well planned cityscape. A downhill stroll through the gardens brought us to the Supermercado for a stockup of gigantic proportions (they do say never shop hungry).

Our multidirectional stroll (polite for lost but don't care) brought us out of the winding streets right where we wanted next to Barcelona Port. We ate at a very exclusive restaurant overlooking the superyacht marina (do the front steps count?) Tapas a-la-Hall were devoured under the watchful eye of the restaurant owner and every single school kid in Spain currently on holidays.

It was time for the beach (as if we weren't wet enough already) only to applaud Barcelona for being well set up to entertain the summer hoards. Following a deep conversation over our life aspirations we stumbled upon La Rambla (Champs Ellysee of Barcelona);
[list]ASPIRATIONS
[*]Camilla- one pair of red high heels, fitted ski suit, children galore and a house overlooking Sydney Harbour (order under review)
[*]Steve- wardrobe from Burberry, tough truck and enormous yacht, children galore and a tent overlooking Camilla's house

La Rambla is a the epicentre of cool Barcelona with street performers painted in silver or gold and some wearing eloborate costume, markets and restaurants. It was absolutely time for tea at this point to wash down the kilo (literally) of strawberries purchased at the market.

Barri Gotic cathedral was as the name suggested elaborately gothic in appearance. A small donation seemed in order to help preserve this masterpiece. A much larger donation was required to secure tickets for tomorrow night's show of Opera-y-Flamenco at the theatre on La Rambla.

Barcelona - take two

The sun was shining over the mediterranean making the tent look even more perfect (such proud owners) which inspired us to stay the extra night and soak up everything possible. Soak it up we did starting at Sagrada Familia. Steve was in tears most of the time for the price we were charged to enter this monstrousity. Only half finished (after nearly 100 years) it was a grand tour of a construction site with a completion date on Spannish time (i.e. 2082 - quote Lonely Planet). All in all the modern cathedral of Gaudi is incredible if not totally repugnant. It depends on taste and may (according to Camilla) require a womens touch.

Lunch a-la-parkbench was enjoyed watching two oldies (greater than 26 years) playing ping pong on one of the permanent tables that are setup throughout Spain. A long walk to the Arc de Triomf for a second time, one raining one not, was timely as two friendly Australian travellers required expert photographic assistance.

A dinner before a show is in Camilla's little rule book (if you find a copy please post ASAP to Steve) and under the heading "What I Want Right Now" reads steak, just steak, any steak will do. Evidently the one provided will not do mostly due to the fact it was paper thin and spent the same 10minutes Steve's paella took to cook. Transcending all language barriers the polite Spannish, English, Vietnamese, English retort produced another paella with our gratitude.

Opera may not be entirely our taste but when mixed with the exciting music produced by Spannish composers it comes alive. Flamenco on the other hand was precisely why we were there and left understanding this form a little more. We noted that Flamenco comes across very aggressive yet passionate, rythmical in the way another instrument would be played through movement and sound; and thoroughly engrossing. What a great show!

Ahh, sweet metro helped us cover the same distance in 5 minutes as our walk in the rain on the first day took in 40 minutes. Exiting the station underground was timed perfectly as our send off from Barcelona with the most amazing light and water show. Cascades and almost 1 km of fountains lead up to Palau Nacional which is framed by high intensity sky beams radiating from the domed roof. Needless to say we took a photo.

The next day we gambled on whether the bus and train timetables will operate on Easter Saturday and came off lucky.

Segovia to Valencia - 2 April

An early start (truly, with a 6am rise) required no less than a chocolate croissant still warm from the oven and water for the bus ride to Madrid. The bus ride didn´t feel like long at watching the sun come up over the colourful farms. We were delivered directly to the impossible to find underground bus stop only to realise that the next bus to Valencia leaves from the other side of town. A quick metro and we were again searching for a tiny bus stop only to realise it was a metropolis of activity behind another hotel.

Arriving in Valencia was less than impressive with no idea of where we were and only a Spannish version of the tourist guide available. After finally sqwabling for an English map we strutted off confidently into the historic streets of Valencia. It was not long until we were standing in a hostel to be told there were no beds left. A short walk round the corner and we had a bed in a Spannish Pension (cheap accommodation).

Pizza and bread stick snacks kept us going then onto the most disorganised camping equipment store on Earth where we found nothing. The Basilica Virgin de Los Desamparados was a replica of Notre Dame in many ways, possibly from the same plans. A service going on across the immense room with choir singing which added great ambience.

Dinner was a true backpackers affair with takeaway pasta salad and confit of duck (we think) sitting in the main square. Interestingly there were two clock towers which chimed one after the other so we did not know the correct time.

A Day in Valencia - 3 April

It was a gorgeous sunny day luckily so we made haste to the first day of trials for the 32nd America's Cup match racing. Just offshore we could see the boats jostling for position. Entering the complex Steve was berrated by the security guard for carrying a pocket knife, thankfully returned at the end of the day. It was evident that plenty more work is required before the main event commences. Our highlight was to activity participate in racing the yachts! You are asking yourself how, rest assured they were only 3 feet long and in a pool no deeper than your knee, what fun.

Our short stroll back to the historic centre of town was via the immense green space stretching the entire way around the city. Mostly notably, Valencia has some of the most impressive modern architecture we have seen. The parks were filled with activities and people which gave us enough to look at.

A splurge on dinner was necessary to replenish so we asked 'tondo Esta el supermacado?' and found ample supplies for a gourmet meal in our smokey room. With an early (6am) start required it was time for sleep after a great day in this modern Spannish seaside town.

Evening - 31 March

An early morning walk to the bus stop (9am, tut tut) and we were off to Segovia. Did we forget to mention it took till almost 10am to find the bus stop which was hidden in the basement of a hotel sort-of opposite the train station but not really!

Our bus was a Pinnafarina design (Ferrari use the same) and it was very comfortable. Camilla was still asleep until the snow capped peaks in the background excited Steve to the point of histeria, or it could have been sleep deprivation from the dorm-mates the night before.

Our first night of camping was on the agenda however after the information desk lady laughed histerically (probably from the sheer stupidity of the question) we realised ourselves it wasn´t the best idea whilst walking through the rain, yes rain, in 4 degrees.

Aquaducto was our first friendly sight confirming we had indeed arrived at our chosen destination. A fantastic 2000 year old water chanel erected without the use of mortar and running high above the main town. A few dozen photos later and it was into the trusty Lonely Planet for a warm haven to rest.

Lunch was a backpakers affair of bread, cheese, OJ etc then onto the Alcazar´s castle. Teetering on the edge of this medieval walled city is an 1800s replica of a 1300s castle which unfortunately burnt down. If was filled with canons, full suit of armour soldiers and swords on every wall. A museum in Spannish didn´t help us understand anything really but the models of canon building were good.

A trip to the tower counted 182 steps and gave the best view of Segovia wrapped in early evening set against the backdrop of snow capped peaks and green fields. Well worth the climb.

Finding the Plaza Mayor (main square) is a good idea in Spain as it usually the sight of a party or the general hub of activity. At about 8pm the entire town stopped as the main (resplendant - quote Lonely Planet) cathedral spilled out the makings of their catholic easter parade. All the streets were closed to pedestrians and the floats which came through the crowd depicted the life and death of Jesus in vivid detail.

Dinner was the largest plate of chips we have ever seen, lesson: do not order ´patatas doble´ when ´patatas single´will do. Burger chasers finished off the chips so we rolled back to the tent, sorry we mean hostel.

As we prepared for a hard earned rest the parade, almost 1.5 hours later came past still enthusiastically singing hymns followed by the police marching band and children playing.

A full day in Segovia - 1 April

To live like a local involes the following, wake up late, walk to bakery which does not rise until around 8am, eat whilst walking under aquaducto (amazing), get lost in back streets, re-emerge next to same bakery at lunch time, find condiments of wine/olives/cheese (sounds familiar) then trot down the hill to the river below Alcazars for a picnic. Tough life but we had to try it. Lost of people were out walking their dogs, kids were fishing in the stream and surprise, surprise kicking a soccer ball around.

A long walk around the river through a light drizzle saw us climb back into Segovia through the city walls. At night the rain had stopped and all were out strolling the streets in thick fur coats with their kids and grandkids in tow. Steve shuffled through the crowd mumbling something which only became audible as Camilla caught up ´I don´t know what they are eating but I want some too´. Only seconds later and with a big grin he was holding a bag of deep fried sweet bread coated in sugar.

Evening of 29 March

Without drama or concern we navigated the Madrid metro system with the locals in what is a super efficient, easy to use network. 3 trains and 20 minutes later and we appeared outside the Cat´s Hostel know for the cheapest pint in town. No this wasn´t the reason we chose it but obviously some of our 6 flat mates had only this in mind.

Nevermind the young revellers, the location was within a stones throw of the great sights. We walked in the late afternoon to Plaza Major and located a great restaurant for paella (big Spanish risotto) and Spanish omlette although before dinner it was necessary to have a tapas of green olives and Amstel, the local brew. Plaza Mayor (think of St Marks square in Venice although we haven´t been yet) and add some Spanish music, kids kicking a soccer ball and waiters who are less interested in you than could be possible.

Day 1 - 30 March

One of the great Spanish art collections is in the Museo del Prado so off we shot early in the morning (approximately 10am - ouch) for a dose of culture. For all art buffs please ignore the next comment, having come from Le Louvre only days before it was difficult to digest the often gory works of Goya and dark canvases of many historic Spanish artists. All in all it was still an experience worth doing as we experienced first hand young art students replicating chosen pieces as best they could (and some were bloody brilliant).

A brush with the communication palace (we kid you not the post office is called the Palacia del Communicion) and we came out unscathed. Dad, I hope you have received the first few thousand photos and our best efforts at interviewing each other in French, oh dear. With headaches and hunger pains we were in search of a local deli.

Lunch was well deserved following the queing etiquette as it seems irrelevant that Steve is a full head taller, they need their cheese and ham and will not let a simple Aussie get in the way. Sustenance got us as far as the garden fountain outside the Palacia Real, a truly monumental and beautiful white stone building. Steve fell asleep within seconds and Camilla was left in the sun soaking up the surrounds.

Dinner was a fine affair of bread, salami and cheese which was backpack temperature but ooh soo good. Dessert saved the day as we joined the hundreds (literally) in the street strolling, watching street performers and buying delicious cakes and pasteries. Cakes and pasteries we hear you say, yes we bought cakes and pasteries.

A night of rest and it was off tomorrow to Segovia.