Czech Republic

Leaving Cesky Krumlov was a reluctant move. To soften the blow we had planned a walk through the castle gardens which rewarded us with great views of the town below. On our 'hike' through town, that is we were carrying our packs and therefore were 'hiking' we made it 20 steps before diving into a small restaurant for more traditional feast. Full of pork snitzel and roast duck we boarded our bus, destination Prague.

Watching the rolling hills, thick evergreen forests and small farmland lakes pass by the window over the hours was enriched by a number of attempts to read LOTR without getting ill. Camilla needed to remind Steve at the bus stop in Prague that you cannot judge a book by the editorial notes left at the dank, smelly and often overlooked bookshelf behind the toilet receptical. Sorry, a bit left of field, Prague looked pretty grim from where we were standing.

As with all similar scenarios on this trip a spoon full of Metro helps the busstation go down. 15 minutes later and we popped our heads out of the underground network to be greeted by traditional blacksmiths hammering bells into shape below the national museum at the end of the avenue. Whew.

Organising our fully equipped apartment only 10 steps to the river and behind the National Theatre was effortless in the helpful tourist office. 'Hiking' down the main road we had no idea yet of what lay in store around the corner into the old town or what may greet us from across the Vltava river. Eagerly dropping our bags and equiping ourselves for an explore we were out the door within seconds.

Standing across from Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in the world, with the Charles Bridge to our right we knew that this city had a lot of secrets to discover.

Dragging ourselves away from the river bend we delved deep into the heart of the old town, crossing numerous cobblestone streets and dodging trams left right and centre to find the famous astronomical clock.

In the old town square we admired the incredibly bright and colourful mansions lit by late afternoon sun, watched the buskers playing music and the many tourists starting to settle down to the evening meal.

Knowing the good food at reasonable prices is always found a couple of streets back from the tourist hotspots we decided on dinner in the small courtyard behind the old town cathedral attached to a jazz club established in a 15th century cellar. Now that our love affair with hearty meat meals and Czech beer is well ingrained we ate pork shoulder with potato pancakes and beef goulash.

It is possible to wander the streets of Prague without fatigue for many hours however we realised that the only true compliment necessary after such a good meal was gelato. Where else in the world would you find a harpist playing Pacebels Canone in your local cremeria.

Day 1 - 30 June

The bakery did not see us coming as we dove for cover behind the pastry shelf for breakfast. Unfortunately we are not carrying a laptop with satellite connection so our first stop after breakfast was the @Cafe for a quick blog fix and juice to wash down the pastries. By the time we had surfed the www and chatted to all you fine folks the temptation to have a meal at the chinese restaurant outside the window was overwhelming.

Our objective for the afternoon may have been a little ambitious, visit the worlds largest castle complex. Thankfully they know that even the most hardened and diligent tourists with no real interest in anything at all could not possibly walk around this vast and gorgeous complex in less than 4 hours. We had three so were grateful that the long visit ticket would be valid for two days. Without further adue Camilla rushed back to the side of more handsome of the two sentry guards you have ever seen giggling like a schoolgirl.

After the blushing subsided (Camilla, not the guard) we entered the St Vitus gothic cathedral (one of the largest of its kind) we stood in silent amazement at the vast cavity that lay before us. The intricacy of the stained glass is unparalleled and a free climb up the 287 steps to the top of the bell tower was the icing on the cake. Having gawked at Prague from such a vantage point it is difficult to imagine any other city beside Venice or Paris will remain in our minds so prominently.

The rest of our visit on the first day included the old palace, St Georges basilica and convent erected over 1,200 years above more than 120 tombs from ancient times, the golden lane, guard tower and dungeon and finally the portrait gallery. Exhausted we handed by the garrulous (similar to our blog), tangent stricken audioguide we headed down the numerous stairs through the cobbled streets and across the Charles Bridge in the late afternoon for supper.

In true medieval style Camilla had pork goulash in a bread round with pretzel and Steve gnawed on his first Pork Knee (enormous!) shaved horseradish and mustard. Exhausted we headed back for the evening with excitment brewing for our return the following day.

Day 2 - 1 July - Happy New Half Year

Today was commenced with a detour via the old Praha 1st train station where we came across a full blown film set in motion. Nothing too interesting, obviously they are hiding the stars in those big trailers, so we proceeded to the ticket booth to make our decision on where to go. You would think that these sorts of decisions are made well in advance however it has come to us that a trip of this nature is best grown organically. Of course we had in mind that Germany is on the cards tomorrow so it was just a matter of confirming that our desired destination was possible, reasonable etc.

Back through the cobbled streets of the old town we admired the astronomical clock tower again from a variety of angles through the throngs of tourist buses piling out for a sunny Sunday visit.

No visit to Prague Castle would be complete without enjoying watching the handsome uniformed sentry guards change shift, or so we thought. After blinking at precisely the wrong moment half of the 30 second ceremony was over. Eitherway, it is good to know that when the youngest guard came out looking nervous and a little lopsided there was formal assistance from the guardkeeper to adjust his shining outfit.

Prague Castle had only two major exhibits left for us to enjoy. The story of the Castle complex, which included models, prehistoric remains of wholly mammoths, ancient graves (complete), jewelry, attire and crown jewels. Our second stop was the National Gallery which in comparison to many of the non-permanent exhibits left a little to be desired. On our way out of the castle we visited the gardens and walked down below the imposing cathedral and castle walls to the river below.

We debated for a good 15 seconds how to finish off an experience such as we have had in Prague and decided that it was only fitting to plant ourselves at the trendy Cafe/Restaurant/Bar/Disco/Terrace directly adjacent to the Charles Bridge and across from the castle. With cold drinks in hand we decided at this point that Prague has been such a spectacular highlight in our trip that our future plans will be to revisit in the future when the ground is thick with snow. As we left tonight in a steaming sunshower we know this decision will be one easy to keep.

Finally another stamp in the passport. While we have each travelled to 10 (or more countries which is debatable if you include principalities or not) the EU member countries have very loose border control processes. As we entered the Czech Replublic on the train we were warmly greeted in the carriage by 4 armed and uniformed border controllers.

20 minutes after this pleasant encounter we were kicked off the direct route train and herded onto 1960s buses due to trackwork (our Cesky may lack some finer translations). Without complaint we arrived in Cesky Budojovice on time and had a good hour up our sleeves for two of Steve's most favourite things. A visit to a new country supermarket, and to order the original Budwieser Budvar beer from Budejovice where it originated. The palers, crappier and unfortunately more profitable 'Bud' of the US has been in court battles for over 50 years as to the original but we now know which is the preference.

Onto an old rattler of a train which may have been the same vintage of the bus it was off to Cesky Krumlov. Knowing little of the destination and entirely amused with the carriage full of teenage Czechs making their way back from a school camp Steve dove off the train for 2 more ORIGINAL Buds for the ride. As the train was only a couple of carriages long it was easy to see past the engine at the overgrown grass between the rail sleepers and the encroaching forest.

Cesky Krumlov - 27 June (Arrival)

As the rain started to spit we were unperturbed in our quest for shelter. It is a great feeling to know that if suitable lodgings are not found we will simply aim at the town square at pitch. Finding accommodation in this medieval town was no qualms as every single backpacker from Austria to Eastern Europe comes via Cesky Krumlov. Having met the very cute receptionist, the price of good food and wine, and dumping our bags in fantastic cheap accommodation it is easy to see why.

Cesky Krumlov is a fairytale town nestled below rolling pasture land, in the crook of a fast flowing river below the Czech Republics second largest (and arguably most picturesque) 11th century castle.

Dinner was the typical self catering we often do just after Steve has been carrying the bags for an extended period i.e. throw everything that weighs anything into a pot and heat. Sitting in our 1/4 acre garden overlooking the imposing town cathedral we enjoyed the view of the setting sun and drank to the Czech Republic.

Day 1 - 28 June

Our morning started with a big walk to find some food given that everything that was left ended up the pot previously mentioned. A big walk in Cesky Krumlov (pronounced Cheskie) would infact lead you off well into the adjoining pasture land on the opposite side of the county, instead we use this terminology to describe the continuous 300 metres of walk following the river bends to the rolled cookie store.

In fact the store was more a hole in the wall with yet another very cute (Steve is typing and therefore can put anything he likes!) Czech bakerette. Rolled cookies are baked around a large hot cylinder then dipped in butter and covered with almonds, cinnamon and suger. In retrospect we only needed one but two seemed the right and proper thing to do...

Climbing the winding cobblestone stairs through town to the bridge entrance of the castle we took time to admire the greeting party. In the bear pit there was no less than three... BEARS. What did you think we were going to say? Very cute, certainly cuddly and at a distance as tame as a kitten. No further experiments were made regarding their friendliness.

Straight up the closest vantage point we climbed the 13th-16th century tower (difficult to give an age to many things in Europe from the middle ages as they have frequently been burnt down, redeveloped etc.) Looking like a giant kids playground rocketship the tower has one of the most stunning frescos covering its outer stones. From the top we could see into the distant forests, hills and down to the jigsaw puzzle streets of Krumlov.

At 1:20pm our tour of the Rosenburg castle commenced with the increasingly gorgeous tour guide Camilla. A tour of a medieval castle with no less than 2 beautiful blue eyed, brunette and porcelain skinned Camillas was a treat for Steve. Camilla hung on every word and was suitably distracted by the bearskin rugs, 16th century interior frescos and perfectly maintained period furniture. Near the end of the visit we saw the golden carriage, used once to deliver presents to the pope it was adorned with over 2kgs of leaf gold. The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Masquerade hall with no less than 123 personalities in costume frescoed on all walls.

Now absolutely famished only one Czech traditional meal would suffice. Ordering the Bohemian feast with phesant, millet, potato, smoked bacon, yogurt dressing, saurkraut, beer and a goblet of wine we sat for the best part of the afternoon by the river below the castle (nb: castle tower climbed earlier on the left of the photo below).

Cesky Krumlov has been one of the great stops made on the trip so far and whilst not being a truly accurate and comprehensive cross-section of the entire Czech Republic, we do hope it is a relatively accurate preview of what may be to come.