France

When we say dash to the train station please keep in mind the 10 kg of shopping, afternoon tea and a couple of bottles of wine had been enjoyed over the previous days.

Our train to Montpellier was not booked as yesterday was a public holiday so Steve had a crash course in requesting tickets post haste as the TGV had just arrived! The TGV is the Concord of the railway with streamlined bullet like nose and not a whisper of sound from outside when underway. What a smooth ride through the gorgeous countryside at around 150km/h, almost half the TGV top speed but still got Steve very excited as the carriage leans into each corner.

Montpellier - Ou est l'accommodation s'il vous plait

Bless the Tourist information office in the centre of town, and the friendly tri-lingual Japanese-French English speaking assistant. A few calls later and we had a 32 euro per night room with shower right next to the camping supply store (could you ask for more?)

Tea is an essential part of every civilised society so why should Chateau Hall (a.k.a the tent) be without. Our brand new cooker, pot and pan set, gas cylinder and new found sense of self reliance was worth the wait. With this acquisition behind us it was absolutely time for fast food?!

Quick is like MacDonalds / Hungry Jacks with subliminal messages implanted into the rap songs played soothingly over the loudspeaker to buy more food. It was better (marginally) than Maccas which says a lot and gave the same satisfying feeling of a heavy and full tummy. Surprisingly, fast food does not cater well for travellers on a tight budget and we have found that the staple local diets are far better value overall.

To the bookshop for some planning tools! We were in search of a walk through the French countryside to epitomise the rural lifestyle and find something off the beaten track. In the end we selected one of the excellent topoguide book specific for the well trodden path (Grand Radonnee) of Robert Louis Stevenson through the Cevennes. One small problem, it is in French so a pocket dictionnary rounded off the purchase.

We have found it difficult to make some decisions throughout this trip, particularly given the density and richness of culture and options throughout this corner of Europe. The cities possess so much to see yet the countryside is calling.

A stroll through Montpellier has led us past a breakdancing competition in the spring gardens, the super modern plaza hotel de ville and residential plazas, canal, winged victory (copy from the Louve) and an authentic Aussie Pub (we beg to differ).

Shopping in the Coles / Woolworths equivalent was a supervised excursion this time with Camilla leading purposefully through the chips and biscuits isle before Steve found a bag of pre-prepared microwavable snails (pack of 50 for 20 euros - bargain). Their regular food supermarket is great competition for David Jones foodcourt in Sydney with such variety and delicacies.

Hmmm, delicacies! Without actually using the dictionnary we recognised the word beef and assumed the other word was for kebab (you know the ones on the stick). The cooking aparatus worked perfectly, the table was set, hunger was subsiding until Camilla piked up after close examination of the morcels. GET ME THAT DICTIONNARY! Moments later and we were consoling each other in peels of laughter at how similar heart and kidney tastes to sirloin kebabs.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MUM/LIZ! We are thinking of you.

Montpellier - 11 April

Tea and the unmistakable taste of scrambled eggs on baguette in the morning has justified the cost of the stove in a single meal.

An enthusiastic start in the overcast day has led us through the shops, main plaza and tourist office before a complicated 20 minutes on French only booking of trains for tomorrow. Camilla says Steve did very well (thankully the train was not on the platform this time). We will see if the tickets actually take us to Lyon tomorrow.

APOLOGY: If you are enjoying the photos we have unfortunately used up our monthly allowance of downloads more quikcly than expected. Don't forget, if you what to be notified of updates make sure you subscribe on the site (subscriber donations of 1,000 euros to show your support will be payable on our return, kidding.... 2,000 euros).

Another Early Start

We forgot there was a 5.30 in each morning but there we were wet, cold and with smiles from ear to ear at the day ahead. It is incredible to think that you can wake up in a tent 20km south of Barcelona and within the day be setting it up again in glorious French countryside sunshine.

Our bus to town, metro rides then long distance coach to Narbonne and finally a train to Carcassonne is a distance of nearly 250km and the entire trip cost less than 80 euros. It still eats into the daily budget but well worth it when you consider it is changing countries.

Carcassonne campsite would have felt closer to the train station if Steve wasn't let loose alone in a French supermarche hungry and enthusiastic. With approximately 10 kg of additional baggage we trudged through the winding streets across the old bridge to have La Cite unveil itself from behind the trees. Carcassonne holds Europe's largest fortified medieval city and was host to Monty Pythons 'Life of Brian'.

Picking our tent site was easy, we just needed to make sure that the sunset to our backs did not distract from the view of La Cite over the river. As campsites go, Carcassonne is 4 star with great facilities and a multilingual and very patient attendant who put up with Steve's attempts to communicate.

A day in the Life of Brian - 8 April

Midday came around as quickly as changing countries in Europe. It was necessary to wash the rain from Spain out of our clothes (by hand - we thought that was fitting) only to realise the washing machines were across the field.

Strolling through Carcassonne was the entire adventure for today, entering via the side gate we peered through cracks in the fortifications to identify the river below and found our way to a central plaza for lunch. Lunch (mostly leftovers from Steve's shopping adventure) was complimented by the atmosphere of almost 200 tables and chairs set below vines and awnings for fellow travellers.

Leaving via the ramparts (top of the wall around the city) we gawked at the rolling countryside in all directions. Across the drawbridge (no charging stallion or sword in hand unfortunately) we lost ourselves in the gardens along the river before entering town. The return to the tent site took us past fishermen and a family of ducklings only days old.

It may just be in our imagination but wine and cheese in the grass tastes better when you have carried it back from town via ducklings and fishermen. A marshmellow chaser was organised where we befriended Jake and Mitsy (a couple from Wales and London). Their extraordinary plan is to hitchhike from London to Morroco in less than 3 weeks for an African education charity. By the time we all felt sick on marshmellows an amicable trade was made of one map of France (well 'thumbed') for a little used but useful Spannish phrase book. We wish them well.

Carcassonne - 9 April

Today was taken at leisure with chores completed and the whole of France shut down for Easter Monday.

A map when travelling without real plans is a mesmerising read getting lost in the names and possibilities of each place. The Lonely Planet unfortunately could not possibly supply enough information so we were in need of a hitch hikers guide to the galaxy. A stab in the dark lead us to the decision we would make our way east rather than west at this point.

Afternoon tea is a great activity for budget concious travellers so we strolled ever so diligently back up the steps to the old city to oggle the cafe and patisserie for the perfect treat. Nous choison un chocolat chaud et une the, ensuite, je voudrais une tarte au citron meringue et une mollieruex au chocolat. For anyone who does not read poor French, and those that can and are embarrassed for Steve, the translation is simple - too much yummy stuff!

An early night was in order as tomorrow would require some concentration and a long walk.

Day 4 - 26 March
Our first objective for today was to get out of Paris a little to explore the famous Chateau of Versaille. On arrival from the RER we did not find any hords of tourists, just the looming wings of this enormous holiday house (think Circular Quay) for the French aristocracy. After consuming two well needed baguettes in the gardens looking through the avenues of trees we went in search of the entrance only to find out that it was closed. Neither of us minded too much as it was a good excuse to look around town.

Unperturbed we returned to Paris determined to climb the towers of St Michel Notre Dame Cathedral. The enormous rose shaped stain glass windows, vast interior and soaring ceiling draws numerous wanabe artists with note book and pencils. We were silent for much of the time trying simply to absorb the beauty of the place and try to picture what it would have taken to build such a magnificent structure.

We resorted to English to figure out where to enter the towers and made haste to the queue. Thankfully we were some of the last to be allowed to enter which was lucky. The spiral staircase can make you dizzy with hundreds of steps (no-one was counting this time...) Looking over Paris between the faces of gargoyles is just like the postcards, however when standing 50 metres above St Michel plaza to hear the cathedral bell ringing right next to you across Paris cannot be compared.

After listening to jazz players on the bridge we took a short stroll across Paris (30 minutes) through St. Germain des Prix peering into the boutique stores we arrived outside the Patheon. Surrounding the square is the University building and endless students soaking up the last rays of sunlight. Emilie was a little late as her research mice spleen needed DNA extraction so we bought a phone card
and let Philippe know we were hungry.

Walking through the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter we opted for a very French cuisine (kebabs) sitting alfresco on the banks of the Seine under Notre Dame and Petit Pont (the little wooden bridge). Groups of young school tourists on the cruise boats developed the habit of screeming at the top of their lungs under each bridge to hear the echo as loud as Notre Dame bell! A particular loud individual (15 year old girl) yelled Bonjour in classic American and met with a very Ozzie 'Bonjour to you too', 'oh your English giggle giggle', 'no, we are AUSTRALIAN!'. Philippes banter back didn't help our arguement by taunting them in colourful French.

Day 5 - 27 March
Our typing muscles are wearing so thankfully Day 5 was a little simpler. It is known that the Louvre, which we planned for tomorrow is one of the great art collections yet the Musee D'Orsay holds some fabulous works. After catching 3 interlinked metro trains we were in the queue within 30 minutes and another 15 minutes until we were in.

The first sight of the grand hall is out of this world as it is dotted with famous sculptures and flooded with natural light. We thought that given this gallery is tiny in comparison to its big sister it would only take a short time to enjoy the offering. Almost 3 hours later and we had to stop for a lunch of muffins and biscuits before making our way out into the brilliant day.

To reward our efforts we lazed in the Jardin de Luxembourg, a landscape art work well worth the visit. Watchin old men play boulle not to mention dozing a little in the sun made us blend in easily with the locals.

Our second misjudgement of time for the day was in being determined to walk to the Tour Eiffel. Over 1 hour later and we had a glimps of our final conquest for today. Although the third level was closed (good excuse to revisit on our return) the 2nd floor left us amply impressed. Paris roof tops are almost as intricate as the streets below with balconies and courtyards which can only be properly viewed from this superb structure. Now freezing and hungry our hearts were set on a small French restaurant back in the Latin Quarter (read-more walking!)

A hearty three course Menu later in a romantic little place 'Demi Lune', a few escargot, two types of canard (duck) and creme brulee and we were finished (literally). Catching the last metro back to Perreux sur Marne we reflected on a day never to be forgotton.

Day 6 - 28 March
Le Louvre - it is know to be big, really really big. We can attest to the fact that even with a week of walking, perfect understanding of French and a GPS / Compass or tour guide it would be impossible to take it all in. Honestly, it seemed better to not even try so with a tick list shorter than this blog we marvelled at great works for almost 6 hours. Not as impressed with the most famous Mona Lisa, it seems such a shame that the focus is on this one painting when located in a room of numerous works all equally detailed. All art buffs should ignore that last sentence.

Philippe was a great guide as he could translate the intricate descriptions (although sometimes abbreviated) and seemed to enjoy his first visit to the local Art Gallery. At this point you may think 'shame, shame, shame' but like us not climbing the Harbour Bridge it is understandable that a lifetime in a city such as Paris will provide an opportunity some day.

Lunch on the grass watching school children play soccer was very relaxing, and luckily we did not fall asleep which was otherwise very tempting. 10 kilometres of gallery gazing later and the first quarter of the Louvre was complete.

A brief look at the Paris Opera reminded us that art in Paris is both inside and out, and in the case of the Opera House it is just how we pictured the phantom's manor, who was unfortunately not home. Beer-o-clock was held in a small French establishment called Sherwood which was actually Spanish followed by tartines for dinner where we thanked Philippe and Emilie frequently for their hospitality.

Day 7 - 29 March
Waking up today was a little difficult knowing we had to leave Paris and our friends behind, however our return in September is now, more than ever, a priority on this trip.

Our flight to Madrid went flawlessly (nothing to report). After landing in Madrid we came to compare their metro system with Paris on the way to the Cat's Hostel. It could almost considered better from a visitors perspective and appears very new. 1 euro, 20 minutes and 3 trains later and we arrived at our beds for the evening.

It is worth leaving it hear for now just by saying that if Paris has not been on your travel plans to date, it comes with the Camilla and Steve tick of approval as one of the greatest cities imaginable. Good luck Europe, you have big shoes to fill.

\Photos to be posted later.

Day 0 - Thursday 22 March

The flight to Paris was our longest ever (13 hours) but it did give us time to savour French food so we think we could have stayed on for longer. We were greeted at the airport by our good friend Philippe and driven (on the wrong side of the road) to his home in Perreux sur Marne. After 30+ hours awake, an hour long stroll along the bank of the river, welcome drinks and introductions, and a DELICIOUS Roquefort Risotto prepared by Emilie (Philippe's girlfriend) we were beat.

Day 1 - Friday 23 March

Looking out of the window through the blossum trees and across the river early in the morning was a vision. A very French breakfast (coffee) and it was off to the Neuilly Plaisance train station to catch an RER into the centre of Paris. Our first view of Paris was from under the hoods of our rain jackets. After finding the banks of the Seine we strolled from Gare de Lyon past Notre Dame, a painter under the Petit Pont, Musée D'Orsay, numerous tents supplied for the homeless alongside beutifully preserved river barges before making our way into the back streets to find;

[*]1. Une Toillette Gratuit (Public Dunny - A.S.A.P. - not as easy as it sounds)

[*]2. Hot Tea - it was 6 °C, raining and windy so this item was essential rather than desired

[*]3. Lunch?

In a small lane behind the Hotel Invalides we found a tiny Café Bar where we joined the locals as they dove in for a three course lunch during their break. The Thé helped warm us through however it was more the energy of the owners serving people coffee and wine, and the fact that there were 40 people or more fogging up the windows.

Lunch came in the form of une baguette et une baguette au chocolat (no surprise there), which we munched on our way to view a big tower everyone talks about. It was lucky we had swallowed the last piece before gasping at the majestic Tour Eiffel. Although completely symetrical, photos from only one side was insufficient so we covered every angle and distance (still raining remeber) before taking a moment to realise the extent of our satisfaction at living in the present.

Still content in our rain jackets, thermals and relative lack of tourists (whimps) we crossed the Seine at Pont Bir-Hakeim looking at the mini Statue Liberté to Rive Droite (right bank) and sought refuge under the stairs of Palais de Chaillot. Looking back across the river to Tour Eiffel we agreed that this city has a timeless beauty.

Satisfied with our navel gazing it was time for un café crème in a funky little bar before meeting Emilie and Philippe in front of the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). From the town hall we traced the steps of their first date, walking through the Marais area to a French (who would have thought)the restaurant Crêpe Suzette to enjoy the Brittany regions traditional recipe (Emilie's home town) with apple cider.

Absolutely exhausted we returned to the apartment and took one quick glance at the lights over Perreux before bed.

Day 2 - Saturday 24 March

Fortunately, Emilie had today off while Philippe was working so it was to our delight that we had a Parisian led tour of this great city. It was an early start (almost midday) when we caught the train to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. On the final escalator leaving the Metro Emilie said with a smile 'Voila', and there at the top in the freezing wind stood the Arc de Triomphe. In text books it looks big, on post cards it looks big, on the map it looks big and then you see it...

Despite the number of crazy tourists out in the cold and rain (they finally joined us) we felt alone in our thoughts about how humble this great structure honouring fallen soldiers made us feel. A few hundred photos later and the decision to fill our slack jaws with lunch was agreed.

Pretending to be movie stars in the latest fashion we trudged through the wind and cold down Av des Champs Elysée for baguettes at a table inside next to the window (obviously not brave enough to actually eat ON the avenue). Camilla noticed that while Steve shoved the baguette into him like an enthusiastic trumpet player, Emilie with her natural French style delicately held hers like a flute. We have a lot to learn!

On our way towards Petit Palais Steve gawked at cars and was a little distracted by the advertisements for dancing shows at the Lido, Emilie and Camilla discussed favourite desserts, designers and the passing parade of well dressed Parisians, their children, and even their dogs!

Arriving at the Petit (small) Palais (which would shadow the Queen Victoria Building) we experienced our first Europe art, antiquities and superbly decorated vaulted ceilings some 20 metres above. One, or possibly two photos later and it was time for a hot beverage. Crossing the Pont Alexandre III in the rain the ornate gold statues standing out against the dark sky was surreal.

Filled with tea and confidence Camilla made her first order at a patisserie where the locals queue for the delicassies which are out of this world. SUCCESS! A handful of chocolate macarons, a caramel canelé and a whopping big grin Camilla emerged unscathed.

On to the Hotel des Invalides (historic 4000 bed hospital for wounded soldiers) for a quick peak in the courtyard then to the Metro to make our way to meet Philippe. Although super efficient, at 5pm the Metro is packed (read Sardines in a speeding can).

We changed at Place de Clichy, waited a whole 30 seconds then onto Anvers before climbing Butte Montmartre to basilique du Sacré Coeur. Emilie set Steve the task of counting (out loud in French) the steps. Puffing and panting he proudly announced 'trois cent onze' (311) before admitting to Philippe he may have missed a few.

The ambience inside the church was set by the sound of French nuns singing and the flicker of 100s of candles overseen by a towering vision of Jesus. At dusk looking out from Sacré Coeur through the mist the four of us enjoyed the lights of Paris.

Our stomachs calling aloud, we took a short stroll through the artisan quarters behind the church then descended into Montmartre district for a sensational dinner of Tartiflette (baked layers of creamed potato, bacon, and brie) and confit de canard (slow roasted duck), WOW!

Please read on only if you are older than 35 years.

With some unfounded trepidation we were led willingly by Philippe into the Pigalle. When they say red light district, they didn't mention the rest. Nestled among respectable establishments we did the typical thing and posed (fully clothed) in front of the Moulin Rouge.

Fading slightly from fatigue and full bellies of rich French cuisine we found Philippe's car (no mean feat in the winding back streets) who then offered us a drive around Paris by night. Philippe braved the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysée before coming to a halt under the spectacle which is the Eiffel Tower by night. With only a few minutes to go we stood in anticipation before the 11pm light show. Like an enormous Christmas tree it erupted with sparkling white lights.

Our impromptu driving tour included a pitstop outside the Louvre pyramid, Notre Dame then concluded with the Palais Vincennes (for which everyone except Philippe was fast asleep).

Day 3 - Sunday 25 March

'And on the 3rd Day they rested'. A late start was even later by the fact that daylight saving stole an hour. We walked through Perreux to buy a breakfast of baugette, croissant, croissant au chocolat and a visit to the cheese shop for dinner. After breakfast (midday) Philippe left for theatre practice and we offered to do the shopping.

Armed with a list of three items (in French) we wondered around the markets before arriving just after closing time at the supermarket. FAILURE - not wanting to return empty handed we scoured the shops before finally getting eggs, the wrong type of juice and no bread. 50% is neither pass nor fail.

We are very grateful that our days have included Philippe and Emilie, who welcomed us so warmly and added a real touch of Paris life to the experience so far.