A Travellerspoint blog

Athens

A beautiful ancient city with locals to match

sunny 28 °C

Sitting in our room in Amalfi, bags packed we took a very long breath and sighed as we knew the journey would take almost 40 hours door to door. Excited at the prospect of seeing the Amalfi coast from the road we practically bounced down the laneway and spilled out into the bus terminal.

On long bus trips position is key. We sat as close to the driver as possible to get the best vantage point and bus maneuvering tips as we snake our way along this famous coastline. Sheer drops on the right side and gorgeous vistas looking east along the coast distracted us momentarily from the action in the drivers seat. Stunning sunrise and a great way to enjoy the road without the stress of having to dodge oncoming buses etc.

At Solerno we changed the mode of transportation to Italys finest old rattler for the 3 hour ride to Taranto where we would change to Brindisi. The view from the train varied from undulating countryside similar to the Tuscan landscape however it was dry in many parts (reminding us of home). One of the highlights of the train trip was when we entered the gorge about halfway and followed the winding passage through some tunnels and under the freeway structure (the other highlight was a prepacked lunch sufficient for the duration of the journey).

Brindisi, what can we say. In the spirit of the blog we are trying to remain positive about all locations and experiences, but...

Had a tumbleweed passed us by on the wide marble street as we walked, man and wife side by side, alone it would not have looked out of place. Chuckling to ourselves we utilised the only three shops open at what we thought would have been a peak business period, the ferry ticket office, gelateria and internet cafe (in that order).

Realising we had completed a few hundred kilometres of travel and feeling reassured by the ferry ticket in hand we sat down to enjoy our addiction, blogging. It is true, you the readers with your encouragement and positive feedback have lead us into the dark realms of being internet junkies.

It was an easy mistake retrospectively to leave a full hour to get from the internet cafe to the ferry, which in our minds would be a five minute walk down the main street via the supermarket. Little did we know that the ferry was actually a 10 minute speeding taxiride at 10 minutes to disembarkation. With Elvis playing quietly over the radio we knuckles went white as the taxi driver swerved in all directions whilst ranting about the crappy advice we had received from the ticket office regarding the free shuttle bus. If it weren't for our extorsionist taxi driver we would have missed the boat completely.

Throwing 20 euros at the port tax officer seemed almost like a bribe as the entire office willed us to start running for the ship. Camilla had already commenced her best effort to move her and 15 kilo backpack / supplies bag toward the vessel. In hot pursuit Steve was glancing between the final truck reversing in, beeping louder and louder as if mocking our progress, and those passengers on the back deck smuggly reminding each other that it is worth being an hour early. Amazing race audition complete our applications will be posted on our return.

Setting up camp in the 'Air Chairs' (sitting room only for cheap travellers such as yours truly) was a bit of a giggle. With all but the tent sprawled out between the back wall and row of seats in front we were the envy of all with our featherdown mats, sleeping bags and pjs. A quiet night of lolling with the ship sent us into a deep sleep interrupted marginally by the crew runnning through the ship annoucing the arrival at Corfu and two other ports (12am, 1.30am, 3am). Steve took the 3am opportunity to take a few shots of the sistership docking alongside in the cool night air and most importantly Camilla in camp.

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GREECE

Not knowing where the sea borders start and stop we assumed we arrived in Greece when the first rope was wrapped around the bollard at Patras. Now late moning our entertainment came in the form of watching all the passengers, trucks, farming equipment etc. unload from the ship and ensueing chaos on the dock.

Our mission was to make our way to Athens (read across the whole of Greece) in time to find a decent cheap hotel in the heart of the city. Asking at the train station for the next connection we were informed it would arrive at 12 midday. Thinking that an hour and 10 minutes was a long time to wait after a 20 hour boat ride we walked 200 metres to the bus station. Informed that the next bus would leave NOW we bought tickets, re-read them as we raced for the bus and at that point realised we had changed timezones. It was almost 3 pm when we arrived in Athens bus terminal.

Camilla continually needs to remind Steve that it is important not to write off a city by it's bus terminal and surrounding neighbourhood. With a shrug we offloaded the coach and made our way through the metro network (a crude ordeal of 2 buses and a few train lines) to Plaka. A narrow maze of shopping streets and small squares overlooked by the Acropolis, which at this point we had not clearly viewed, we got rejected from a couple of hotels / hostels which were full before finding our oasis. On the best street, within 2 minutes walk of the acopolis we settled into the Travellers Inn for a reasonable tariff and ignoring the continual reference by the manager that the room was in the basement (literally).

Keen for a taste of the city we walked entirely 20 steps across the way to the local bakery. Greeted by the lovely shopkeep we ordered one of every cookie she makes and settled down to a gorge fest. Content that we were still alive and kicking after the long haul travel we continued along the street blindly climbing higher and higher. Afronted by a narrow passage between the rock and small whitewashed houses we emerged smack bang under the Acropolis overlooking Athens in its entireity.

Athens is enormous beyond what we thought and to add to the spectacle the entire city is a sea of whitewashed roof tops a nonsensical network of lanes and roads. It is not surprising when viewing Athens from above that this city has grown over an extensive 2500+ year history. From behind a graffiti covered (not so whitewashed) wall we looked down the hill to a rooftop wedding celebration. With traditional music reverberating off the cliff behind us we paused a long while to admire the vista in the setting afternoon sun.

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Dinner and desert was as typical as it gets, 2x gyros (mini kebab), chips, coke, free baclava to taste sitting in an ancient archeological site only metres from our hostel. After dinner we headed to a bar which caught our eye, impossible to miss really with hundred upon hundreds of backlit bottles of coloured liquid lining the walls up to the 30 foot ceiling. We each enjoyed a glass of local wine, chatted to the Canadian Minister for Tax in British Columbia and struggled to finish our thimble full of ouzo.

Day 1 Athens - 28 May

As we were greated with a smile each of the subsequent visits to the nearby bakery it was a nobrainer to guess where we had breakfast. Steve was let loose to order which resulted in sufficient food for morning tea and lunch also. Optimistic at first that the rain would hold it became apparent on the first mouthful that today would be pouring. Undetered we dodged the raindrops back to the hostel and equipped ourselves in full wet weather battle attire.

Taking the route we discovered the previous afternoon up the hill to the Acropolis we arrived at the gate, cash in hand, ready to purchase a superpass for all the Athens sites. There is nothing more satisfying to budget travellers than to realise you have landed unplanned in Athens on Holy Spirit Day and therefore all museums and monuments are FREE. Rome first, now Athens, we are feeling lucky. Little did we know our luck would run out shortly.

Standing at the entrance to the acropolis and looking back through the windows of the 2nd century BC ampitheatre over Athens is fantastic. Surrounded by some of the most recognisable ancient monuments in existence gives little people like us a perspective on the length of time and generations which have preceded us. Although not intricately detailed and currently undergoing significant restoration work the Acropolis is still a wonderful site to explore. To think that all those centuries ago democracy was born in the walls of these towering marble masterpieces is humbling.

Battling the wind, rain and tourists whilst jumping between puddles and avoiding the tourist group leader with the deafening whistle (Camilla suggested a cattledog may do the trick also) we found sufficient time to soak in our surrounds, pardon the punn.

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Descending the acropolis we snaked our way around ancient buriel grounds to Ancient Agora, the marketplace of Athina. Camilla's feet were becoming increasing soaked (read the disclaimer on the Merrill website about the difference between Waterproof and WATERPROOF and tell us if we should have known) we marvelled at the well preserved buildings and drainage systems.

Shortly after this moment Steve suffered a horribly debilitating accident. Slipping on the wet marble stonework underfoot (who knows what the ancient greeks did when it rained), the moment in time would have been perfect to capture on camera had it not been for the fact that said photographic equipment was airborne. Plummeting to the ground and stopping with a satisfying crack then rolling slightly into a puddle Steve let out a short yelp (had the cattle dog been there it may have replied).

Glaring at the sky and cursing the close proximity of the puddle to the landing place Steve commenced an hour long grieving process whereby he thumbed and caressed the limp camera equipment. Knowning it had probably captured in excess of 40,000 images in the last 4 years it was time to say goodbye.

Our tour of Athens came to screaming halt as the rain thickened, marble staircases turned into waterfalls all around and Camilla's feet started to squelch. We scurried around the commercial district nearby to replenish our gas supplies knowing full well the only solution was tea. After argueing with the sales manager that Merrill owed us our entire holiday expediture back in full we retreated to our basement to dry our hair.

Satisfied we had seen Athens great monuments in a different light, many smarter tourists would have delayed, we bought a ferry ticket to the sunny shores of Mykonos and completed the evening with Gyros, chips and coke (sound familiar?) Athens is worth the visit, rain, hail, damaged camera equipment or shine. You can sense how quickly time passes humanity when standing there knowning that only a few centuries ago western democratic civilisation was conceived.

Posted by snchall 10:26 Archived in Greece Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Amalfi

Coastline Cruising

sunny
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The ferry from Capri took us past the uninhabited westerly point of the Amalfi coastline stopping briefly in Positano for a glimps of the colourful terraced settlement before arriving at Amalfi.

Steve: Excuse me, I am sorry I don't speak Italian, I have a few questions regarding accommodation
Tourist Office Lady: (glare)
Steve: Where is the closest camping please
Tourist Office Lady: 40 minutes by bus up hill (glare)
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there camping in Positano
Tourist Office Lady: how many nights and how much do you want to spend
Steve and Camilla converse privately
Steve: Is there any accommodation in Amalfi for 50 euros or less?
Tourist Office Lady: (absolute silence, picks up phone, loud rude conversation in Italian) He will pick you up here in 5 minutes.
Steve and Camilla converse privately although there was no real time as we were presently being led through whitewashed narrow footpaths behind a friendly local.

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Thankfully our fully self-contained 50 euro, 2 bedroom (6 person) apartment, locked in the labyrinth of streets and passageways, allowed us the pleasure of hearing the guitarist sing into the night from the nearby trattoria, look out under a cathedral dome ceiling from the balcony and cook up some pretty damn pork surloin wraps, salads, bangers and mash. This was far from what we expected from the tourist office lady.

We loved the place so much we decided without needing to consult privately that two nights was in order. Amalfi is one of those typical, incredible seaside Italian towns with abundant history, cool white alleyways for pedestrians, great food, great views of the coastline. Wonderful stoppover to spend a few days nursing our upset at leaving Capri.

Our days were spent as if holidaying anywhere in the world. Long afternoon naps, strolling (not hiking), gazing lovingly at our surrounds and each other and eating way too much good food.

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We only experienced one dissappointment during this stage of the journey. While Camilla listened to her iPod late on the evening before our departure Steve wondered down to the Marina for a bit of daydreaming. Striking up conversation with the owner, skipper and crew of a nice little Australian registered 62 foot navy blue Moody sloop it was established that they too were departing tomorrow for Greece. A five day journey around the south of Italy followed by a week or two of island hopping.

Picturing with vivid clarity the upcoming 32 hours of bus, train and ferry travel Steve launched (as subtly as possible) into discussion over the possibility that they would benefit from two enthusiastic, fit, lightweight, happy and self-sufficient competent crew. Met with enthusiasm the Skipper, also named Steve, polity offered the following teaser, 'we would be delighted to have you on board (excruciatingly long pause)... however the way we are set and provisioned for tomorrows departure it would be a little difficult, maybe next time as we would love to have you join us'.

Entering the hotel room exclaiming at the top of his lungs 'I have just had the most upsetting experience!' Camilla was not only startled but thought the worst. We TRIED not to think of what would have been the following days. Better to try and have lost than to never have tried at all.

Posted by snchall 07:18 Archived in Italy Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Isle of Capri

Happy Birthday Camilla

sunny 28 °C
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Unfortunately our small daily travel budget could not stretch to the extent that we bought the Isle of Capri, instead we settled on the picturesque Piccolo Marina in the postcard perfect Villa Krupp. Needless to say the upgrade from the tent in the dirt where we awoke that morning brought a big smile to the birthday girl on this special day. Happy 26th Birthday Camilla.

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Content on reading Harry Potter, being served tea on demand, eating soup on the balcony and sleeping half the afternoon on a real pillow was ample indulgence for the day. Our evening of further celebration commenced with the purchase of the present, Camilla's first (and possibly only) Italian designer bikini followed by drinks in the square. Vino Spumante Dolce, Barghetto l'Aquie is highly recommended if you like a cool sparkling port which incidently has become Camilla's favourite drink of all time.

Leaving the people watching post in the main square we strolled only metres around the corner to the restaurant overlooking the main port, funiculaire and cliffs of Capri. Dinner was delightful with superb meat in real portions served with baked vegetables and completely un-Italian. Our most expensive bottle of wine (ever) was perfect. To top off the experience, and totally unplanned by Steve, a hord of Italian tenors (the entire waitstaff) sang at the top of their lungs 'Happy Birthday'. Some of the restaurant joined in too which was lovely, if not necessary in order for Camilla to be able to hear anything over the sound of the fireworks on the cake under her nose.

Day 1 - 23 May

Now a little older and a little wiser the day consisted of breakfast, Harry Potter, lunch, swim in the Mediterranean, sunbake, dinner, Harry Potter, sleep on pillow. Perfect.

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Day 2 - 24 May

Reluctantly packing our bags, finishing off our complimentary breakfast (thankyou Villa Krupp) and taking one last look off our balcony it was a sad day to leave this southern italian paradise. To ease our sense of loss we went directly to the boat hire hut and got ourselves a vessel. In the 'Capri Boat', a 17 foot speed boat with sun lounge and annoying speed limiting peg we set out to circumnavigate the island. Nearly a whole 20 minutes later and we had anchored in our own private bay. Able to see through the deep azure blue water we could not resist the allure any longer.

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On our side of the island we could see the balcony, travelled between and under the rock arches, explored coves and dodged the spray on the southern tip as it became quite windy.

Seeing the pain and anguish on Steve's face as he handed back the keys was not pretty but a consoling swim at the main beach waiting for the ferry calmed him down somewhat. Capri is absolutely stunning, well worth a vist even if you don't have the excuse we did to blow the budget (which is now referred to as the black hole and will not be included in any calculations).

Posted by snchall 06:54 Archived in Italy Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Pompei

Greatest ancient site ever via fast train!

sunny 30 °C
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Awaking in Rome with thumping hayfever we realised that the right decision had been made to leave this magnificent city behind us and work our way south. We both knew that a trip to Europe would not be complete without a trip of a fast train and wow did it impress.

For an additional 16 euros (66 total) we had window seats of the 250km/h missile through the gorgeous Italian countryside to Naples. After only two hours of smooth rocket like travel we looked at each other with raised eyebrows at the next train to Sorrento (barely visible through the dirt and graffiti).

The great thing about the circumvesuvius train line is that you get a view of the great volcano Vesuvius. Sorrento was a hot rattling 1 hour + trip worth the effort. Perched on the hillside our campsite overlooked the Bay of Naples with a direct view at the volcano.

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Our plan at this point was simple, take in as much as possible of the Pompei archeological site then climb the culprit in the afternoon.

Pompei - 21 May

Back on the rattler (narrow gauge circumvesuvius train) in the morning it took just under an hour to reach Pompei. We invested in a detailed and well illustrated guidebook to help us with our exploration. Proving very useful (at helping us trip over ancient broken lavarock paths) we wandered around reading the book out to each other in the glaring sunshine. The grid design street layout is well signposted for a 2000 year old city with huge steps and stepping stones for such small people.

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Off the main drag there were numerous rooms and frameworks of houses with fireplaces, bedrooms and mosaic flooring. The better presserved homes of the wealth families even have the atriums, artworks, frescoes and skylights still in near perfect condition (give or take some ware and tear, small volcanic eruptions and 400 years of haphazard excavation). Camilla found it funny to pretend to play shop in the near perfect marbletop kitchen take-a-way shop.

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After almost 3 hours of systematic investigations of each major relic and point of interest we ventured outside for a quick bite to eat. Mamma was sitting at the door calling our stomachs in for some homecookin, with zero reluctance our bodies followed. Fully satisfied in the small diner we had a new bout of energy to take on the other half of Pompei. After asking at the side entrace politely, begging, claiming ignorance, glaring and then finally being belligerent we overcame the one-entry-per-day policy (of which we were sincerely ignorant) and returned to the mission at hand.

As the day rolled on we explored the majority of the main squares, political building, chatted with other Aussies then decided we were completely full. The Pompei sight is such a unique experience where as amature adventurers we felt often like we were walking into someone's home. It was so sad to see the faces and casts of victims who were not quick enough to escape.

Relics are so well preserved it gives you the opportunity to see and better understand what their world would have been like. It is a shame (however understandable) that the pots, ornaments, jewellery and other small relics are not left in place as they were found. Most signficant finds are housed in the Naples Musuem or in lockup cages on site.

At the train station we were not only exhausted but 10 minutes late for the last bus up Vesuvius. Reluctantly we decided to leave the mission hear and return for celbratory drinks back at the campsite. Celebration you ask? Camilla is still less than half 50 years old. As youth slips from her grasp she gasps aloud over dinner "It's my birthday at home, I'm old!" before pouring a big glass (read plastic travel mug) of wine.

Based on simple calculations Camilla concluded that her birthda would be 32 hours long and therefore should be celebrated for the next 4 days. Steve agreed wholeheartedly as celebrations would include food, wine, upgraded accommodation and general relaxation. Iles of Capri here we come.

Posted by snchall 06:31 Archived in Italy Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Rome

Eternal City, Ancient Ruins, Rocky Campsite and Pollen

sunny 26 °C
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Leaving Siena, no-one noticed their allocated seating number on the ticket except Camilla who passionately wanted to stick to the rules and was met with an unruly group of mid 50s southern Americans (pack of 8 types) insistent that they knew nothing about seating arrangements. Forgetting this oversight we ended up with a 4 seat all to ourselves as we entered the glitzy (read dingy), glamourous (read grafiti covered) end of Rome.

Camping Roma

Determined to ignore anything younger than 2000 years we made haste through the metro and bus system and 1.5 hours later arrived at Camping Roma. The helpful receptionist (capable of 5 languages) said we could take our pick of sites. After assessing the first 30 or 40 we came to the conclusion they were all full of rocks. Our decision came down to how big the rocks were. Like a cute little cat, we settled on a patch which looked, felt and unfortunately smelt like kitty litter.

Without delay the embassy was standing tall and we deserted it for an evening in Roma (take her for espresso, yeah I guess so... on an evening in Roma).

With Dean Martin songs humming through our heads we jumped out of the graffiti embellished metro at Colloseo. It is unimaginable when planning a trip from home just what it will feel like to finally reach the 'must do' destination. Regardless of how many pictures we have seen, regardless of how many times we have pictured it in our heads, the Colloseum is awesome to behold.

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Despite Camilla's initial observation 'It looks smaller in real life' we found the our way with enthusiam to the front entrance (finding the front of a round building is easy, follow the American tour groups). Two words budget backpackers love beyond all others, Entrada Gratuito (FREE ENTRACE). Cultural week coincides perfectly with our planned visit to Rome so all of the state monuments and museums are free to all visitors.

Having saved the entrance fee (score) we splurged on an audioguide to accompany us around the monument. Learning all we could of the history by paraphasing in turn the dialogue to one another we found the Colloseum gory to say the least, facinating and strikingly beautiful as the sun went down.

Next stop was the Trevi Fountain via something to eat. Although the Chinese Restaurant was only steps from the fountain our feet carried us directly past to take a first visit of this enormous marble artform. A few coins over shoulders and we needed our first asiapacific meal.

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After dinner we paused again at the Trevi fountain as the lights came on and made our way to the bustling spanish steps. Littered with young canoodling couples (makes you sick really) we dodged the sellers and arrived at the closed gates of the metro. It is surprising that a major transport route could close at 9pm. With intuition, good looks and determination Camilla deciphered the map / bus routes etc. and led us to safety with only one bus change.

Day 1 - 18 May

Picking up where we left off the day before we dodged the pollen (now thick like snow on the ground around the bus station) to the Spanish steps for morning tea. It was at precisely this time that Steve chucked a wobbly. Unfortunately, it seems the previous evening and for that matter the last 2 months of carting around luggage, portable embassy and various food items like a turtle he was feeling overloaded. Europe is saturated with fine artworks, monuments and beautiful places it seems impossible to truly do it justice in only a visit. This said, the wobbly subsided at the same time that morning tea started to digest.

Full of vigour and nutella baguette we set off for the Pantheon. Considered one of Ancient Rome's greatest and most well kept architectural structures the dome roof is a sight to behold letting a thick column of light illuminate the ornate marble floors and walls. If Steve does not return from this trip it is probably because he persists in testing the water coming from every single spring fountain around Rome before entering any monuments.

A packed lunch was planned for the Italian Forum as it is often too easy to just walk straight through these great sights and not take time to sit and soak them up. Lunch was complimented by a very (very very) expensive can of coke which was put to good use watering the ancient concrete.

Wandering through the forum we were diligent in reading every word of the Lonely Planet explanations of the site. This act was made tricky by the constant dust storms whipping through the columns and marble arches. After an hour or so of taking notes we climbed the hill behind the forum and for the first time had a feeling for the vastness of Rome.

True to the Roman Holiday movie Camilla figured out a bee line to the Mouth of Truth. Outright lying prevailed as Camilla shouted infront of 100 impatient Japanese tourists 'I am Audrey Hepburn' and was grinning from ear to ear that she left with both hands attached.

Detouring slightly from the plan (there was none) we headed towards Plaza Nuovo housing the four rivers fountain of Michaelangelo. Gelato was the order of the day (Cappucino & Choc Mint, Chocolate & Strawberry) sitting on the edge of the ornate fountain watching artists clutch their easle as the wind rushed through the square. On one side, the most ornate church visited so far was almost completely forgotten by tourists in spite of multicoloured intricate mable carvings along all walls.

Dinner in the campsite could not have been more rewarding as we juggled ideas for the following day and reflected on how immensely satisfying Rome can be to visit.

Day 2 - 19 May

Having become increasingly use to waking with the sun to the sound of birds in the trees or rivers running nearby it was a little bit of a rude shock to wake to the sound of 15 vintage Ferraris revving in the nearby shopping centre carpark at 5.30 am. At least we were up and at-em early as we planned on visiting the Vatican City.

When they say queues in summer can be bad we were shocked to find nearly 1 km of people in each direction of the entrace to the Vatican Museum and Chapel. More surprising was that it would not open for another 1.5 hours!!! Even though it is known to be a great collection of art and architecture we came to the conclusion relatively quickly (on this very fine sunny day) to enjoy Rome more broadly.

Standing in the graceful curved courtyard of St Peters we decided to climb the Cupola (curved roof) instead. First stop was 150 stairs up to the inside of the mosiac dome. Reaching the internal balcony we could hear the humming and singing of a service below. Architecturally it is incredible to see such a cavernous space so richly decorated with mosiac tiles less than 1cm square.

Now excited by the sheer height we were gaining it was time to climb the additional 150 stairs on the inside of the outer shell of the dome. As the walls start to curl we realised we had lost each other. Steve determined to find Camilla rationalised that the best place to do this was not in the confines of the narrow passage but overlooking Rome. Camilla found Steve with both cameras pressed close to each eye, diligent search completed.

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While cities such as Paris and Florence have distinctive skylines due to their confined historic centres and notable monuments, Rome is a litter of church domes, bridges and far off ruins. Being able to see the Vatican gardens and piazza was simply stunning on this sunny day, lacks a beautiful harbour such as Sydney however.

Roaming in Rome commenced with our downward spiral staircase which made us dizzy before entering St Peters. A choir was singing at one end while the throngs of tourists (who must have had an all you can eat buffet breakfast and more comfortable awakening than ours) had now arrived. St Peters is over the top, considering the resources required to establish such an impressive collection of statues, paintings and marble collected from various monuments over history shows the dedication of the Catholic Church.

Our adventure was entirely unplanned today so instead we wound up in a gutter eating local delicacies (pastries) admiring the boganvillia covering entire walls of the surrounding buildings. Onwards to the Castel Saint Angelo museum (free entry) was an interesting if not slightly sparse tour of a 1500 year old palace / fort etc. Right price...

Piazza del Popolo was fantastic with segways wizzy around and the sun glinting off the Egyptian obelisk in the centre. On our way to the park we noticed the Leonardo Da Vinci museum (a private collection of works and recreations from drawings) which we found fascinating. Hands on displays and models of some of his inventions, as well as clear explanations regarding the physics behind his ideas kept us well amused.

Now totally full of all things Roman, we lazed by a pond in the park and read a few chapters of Harry Potter. As the sun was setting we finished the day back at the campsite with homemade burgers, extra onions (which smelt like the first BBQ in 2 months) and wine. Rome is certainly a city to see once in a lifetime, maybe more if you have the stamina. Our next visit will not be far away where we will definetely stay in the thick of it (no metros or buses to sap our energy). Overall rating 10/10.

Posted by snchall 13:40 Archived in Italy Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

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